Raising EMT junction box by 3/4″
Hello,
My place was built in the 1950s and has some EMT throughout. My problem: there is a junction box that has a single EMT pipe connected to the top. This box is located on the backsplash area of the kitchen wall, and is not in line vertically with the rest of the switches and plugs on that same wall. I need to raise this box about 3/4 of an inch to get in line with the other boxes, as lowering the other boxes is not an option (too close to countertop).
I’ve attached a picture of the box — it is double-wide, but the plate is centred to appear as a single-wide.
Is there an easy way to raise this box? I think I could open up the wall above the box and remove a small length of the EMT with a pipe cutter (there are no other cables that would prevent this re-location), but am wondering if there is an easier way to solve this one. Is there a way that the box could remain in place, but raise the mounting of the plug on the plate?
Many thanks.
Replies
aside from doing some more demo on the walls why don't you just turn the plaster ring 90º
or horizontal ?
also that box is 4 11/16 sq. and they used to make offset single gang plaster rings for those
and please forget about the tubing cutter trick, as that will leave a very large, sharp ridge inside the pipe and you'll end up replacing the wiring next week if you use it.
trust me, trying to deburr the pipe in place in not easy.... use a hacksaw, it's easier to clean up the pipe
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EMT cuts well with a side grinder, without needing much room to work and doesn't really burr. You still want to run your Kliens around inside. Just be sure to pull the wires back from the upstream box and push them back down when you are done
oboy now you're in here too :) .... good to see you a grinder is a bit extreme for me anyway, too much noise and sparks but what ever trips his trigger!if I was the guy doing this I would just use a sawzall, unless there is an offset in the pipe,.
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I got pointed here over at the ECN BBs. The thing that makes the grinder good is it doesn't shake things up as much as the sawzall and you can get into a tight spot.
glad to have you here and I hope you enjoy it, always need another electrician. but things are a little looser over here than ECNso if you think you want to punch somebody in the mouth you can ask for access to the Tavern :).... did reno talk you into it ?.
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Using a grinder wheel is over-kill, you can cut EMT with a copper pipe cutter, borrow a mini cutter if you don't have one.
Tubing cutters do work well, but don't let your foreman catch you cutting with them......see above post. First things first, MAKE SURE THE CIRCUIT IS OFF!!!! I dont think there is any easy way to move that box without doing a little demo. Sideways mounting is a good idea, but the plugs wont match. Find the junction box, pull the wires back, cut the plaster up 3/4" (better you than me), take the box out, cut 3/4" off the EMT (a uni-bit makes a good pipe reamer-but can't fit a cordless in the wall cavity), remount the box, repull the wire, reinstall plug, patch plaster (better you then me), go have a beer (better not drink it before you start). Don't tell your friends that you can do electrical work.
By the way, those boxes generally come in one size, 4x4 inches square, and are either 1 1/2" deep or 2 1/8" deep. That mud ring is called single gang, as it only holds one device. You don't see very much EMT in residential applications anymore (or commercial for that matter). Aslo, deburring the pipe is code required, regardless of which method of cutting you use.
Edited 7/20/2008 8:53 am ET by arcflash
Edited 7/20/2008 8:56 am ET by arcflash
You forgot to add a disclaimer! ;)
One of the neat things about Internet forums is the ability to gradually fine tune the consensus answer.
Hence, the comment about supporting EMT conduit is partly correct in that it must be supported every 10 feet. However the maximum support distance from the box is 36" -- not one foot. And there is an excetion which allows up to five feet if three feet is impractical. An example would be mounting the box to the bottom of a truss which is located five feet from the next truss [60" spacing].
Another size of box that is fairly common is called "4-11" or 4 11/16ths. Conduit is required in residential in Chicago.
~Peter
I've not run EMT in significant quanities in probably two years. We placed two straps per 10 ft run of pipe, and for lighting circuits, one strap on either side of the box. You are probably correct with 36" and I may be confusing the EMT strap code with cable straps. Code is however, just the minimum, and I like to see a strap near a box regardless of what the conductors are in, I'm sure the inspector wouldn't mind either!
Can you make a couple slight bends in the emt to shorten it? I vote for a rotate of the plaster ring too.
Mark, it would need a bit more than just slight bends to shorten it 3/4" eg; a 3"offset at 30º or ..... 2" @ 45ºwould shorten it enough, although the 45's can't be bent that close to each other, the multipliers for these two are 2.00 and 1.414 respectively and determine where to make the bends relative to each other. IOW multiply the height of the offset by the constant to get the distance between the to bends ( 3 X 2.00 )= 6 inches between bendsnot something you can do without a bender and a whole lot more work.
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Not surprised there. Maybe the conduit could be pushed up a little, if he's lucky, but it's probably too secured.It's likely done now anyway.
Securing the pipe is also code required.....every ten feet and within one foot from a box. Doesn't necessarily mean that it isn't loose, though.
DISCLAIMER: Code required shall be in reference to the NEC 2005. Your jurisdiction may accept the code in whole, or only in parts. Check with your building department and electrical inspector when in doubt.
Edited 7/20/2008 12:47 pm ET by arcflash