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Discussion Forum

Re-facing stairs

hrh | Posted in General Discussion on May 27, 2003 11:14am

I’m installing hardwood flooring and like to do the same for my carpeted
stares.  I pulled the carpet and padding and found that the construction
grade pine treads and plywood raisers are just too rough looking to
stain/paint.  I don’t want to use strips on staris, so I was thinking of
refacing them with oak raisers and treads. 

Since the refacing is simply cosmetic and I’m not disturbing the underlying stair system….. can I place the raisers on top of treads?  Most stairs systems have the
raisers behind the treads (I would like to do this so I have a smaller gap between the raiser and the tread on the next step above.  This would cut the molding size I would have to use).  Also, I was planning to use construction adhesive rather than nails for fasting.  What you think about all this?  Am I nuts or are there better ways to go?

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  1. wrick2003 | May 28, 2003 03:01am | #1

    yes you are nuts.

    step AWAY from the time-life books.

    is this a joke?

  2. Piffin | May 28, 2003 03:49am | #2

    You can do whatever you want with risers but the treads have a nosing. how in the world will you reface that?

    how is this stairset built? housed inlet or stringers notched?

    .

    Excellence is its own reward!

    1. hrh | May 28, 2003 05:33am | #4

      Okay, maybe I should explain what I'm planning in more detail.........

      The staircase is a closed stinger type.  I simply cannot take it apart without taking out the whole damn thing.  I'm weekend DIYer and it would be too big a job and I've only basic carpentry skills.  It just seems refacing them would be a hell of a lot easier than tearing the stairs apart.  

      My existing treads measure 10 1/2 inches from the riser to the end of the nosing.  The nosing makes up about 1 1/4 inch of that.   I was planning to cut the nosing of the existing tread flush with the riser from the step below.

      I went to Home Depot and got some stock Oak treads with nosing (11 1/2 inches).   I was planning to stain/poly them and install them on top of the existing tread using construction adhesive.  I also got (from HD again) stock Oak risers.  These measure 7 1/2 inches in height.  I plan to stain/ploy them as well.   The treads are about 1 inch in thickness and the risers about 3/4 inch. 

      The problem is that this would leave a bit of space between the riser below and the tread above.  I can cover that up with decorative molding.   But again, I'm not an expert and want to be sure I'm not doing any damage or making things unsafe for my family.

      1. DougU | May 28, 2003 05:50am | #5

        What the hell?

      2. CAGIV | May 28, 2003 05:54am | #6

        if you went this way at least ditch the "stock riser" and get something that goes clear up to tread above you want that extra support

        your going to cut the nose off the existing the tread, that leaves 9 1/4".  Your new tread is 11 1/2 that leaves you with 2 1/4" of the front of the tread unsupported, and your planning on using just construction adhesive to attach this?,  think this is going to pop up???

        yes it will after people run up and down a bit.

        If I were to do something like this, which I wouldn't, I'd screw at least the back of the tread down where the screw will be covered by the new riser cover, nail the front corners, or screw and cap and ditch the construction adhesive and spread a yellow glue such as titebond very evenly, then find a way to wieght it down.

        Have you thought about how your going to handle the top step yet, ya can't just cap it.

        You sound dead set on this idea, but it's not a good one.

        Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark, Professionals build the Titanic.

        1. hrh | May 28, 2003 05:25pm | #10

          CAG,

          You're right about the 2 1/4 unsupported section. I would simply cut 1" from the back of the tread to keep it the right length. I do see your point about screwing it down and not rely on adhesive alone.

          I must say that I feel a bit deflated by everyone's comments. I thought that this was a good compromise solution. It seems everyone thinks this is just a bad idea. The reason for refacing is that my stair's skidwall was apparently nailed into place from behind before the house was dry-walled. I simply cannot pull it apart now without doing damage to walls and railings. My wife and I live in the house and that would be too much construction not to mention unsafe.

          I have included a picture similar to our staircase. In case anyone has another solution:

          http://www.espstairs.com/staircase_description2a1.htm

          1. FastEddie1 | May 28, 2003 09:33pm | #11

            It's not nexessarily a bad idea, just that you need to think through all of the details before you start, especially if you have not done stairs before.  If I read it right, you still don't understand the dimensions, because you're talking about a 2-1/4" unsupported nosing...what happened to the 3/4" riser?  Doesn't that reduce the overhang to 1-1/2"?  Do you have any drafting skills?  Sit down and draw very detailed sections of the toip step, the bottom step, and one in the middle, and see if everything works out ok.

            Do it right, or do it twice.

          2. CAGIV | May 29, 2003 03:59am | #16

            Elcid,

              the 2 1/4 came from,

            this may not be exact, I'm going from memory on the dimensions.

            He had stairs something like a 10 1/2". the noising made up about 1 1/2 of that, he was going to cut the nosing off leaving about 9 in. 

            The stair threads he has were 11 1/2 in. the riser he had fell short of the bottom of the tread, he was going to cover the gap with molding, so the gap left the last 2 1/2 in of the tread unsupported.Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark, Professionals build the Titanic.

          3. FastEddie1 | May 29, 2003 05:06am | #17

            Yeah, but I thought I read that he was going to install a riser cover also.  Kind of bothers me that most everyone critisized him for trying something...all he really needed was some decent instruction, 'cause it sure sounded like he was hell bent on doing it anyway.  Sure hate to see somebody have a bad experience trying a little DIY project.Do it right, or do it twice.

          4. CAGIV | May 29, 2003 06:15am | #18

            The original riser "cover" he planned to use was going to fall short of the thread, so there would be no support, the decorative trim that would be nailed on wouldn't lend much help to support in my opinion

            What impressed me was how he took the criticism, personally I'd of told ya'll to go F off, :)

            sometimes I think everyone forgets the point of the forum is to help people who have questions, abnormal/not normal questions on how to do something tend to set people off, oh well, guess that's life, but it might also serve to give people a reality check on their ideas and at times everyone could use a reality check

            Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark, Professionals build the Titanic.

  3. joebevel | May 28, 2003 04:06am | #3

    You may throw off your rise on the top & bottom step, why not just tear out the old and install new treads/risers and be done with it?

  4. chr | May 28, 2003 06:27am | #7

    I completed a project that sounds close. I removed the risers, cut off the stair nose and remounted the riser to the top of the exsisting stair. I then installed my oak stair tread to the original pine tread using a templet to drill two holes at each end and used steel screws to hold it tight. Don't forget to place roofing felt between to avoid creeks. Good luck

    1. hrh | May 28, 2003 10:07pm | #12

      What is the best and safest way to remove the risers?  My oak risers are 3/4" thick.  The plywood risers seem like 1/4".  Wouldn't that require cutting the skidwall openings to allow the new risers to sit properly.   Would I lose anything by leaving the existing risers intact? 

      1. User avater
        Qtrmeg | May 28, 2003 11:27pm | #13

        From what you have said your stairs sound like shop built, not site built, and can't be taken apart.

        What you could do is put false caps on either side and carpet up the middle, (see pics). That would probably make too much sense, and be something you could actually do and have look nice though.

        Either way, why don't you use 1/4" oak plywood for the risers, or raisers, or whatever they are called.

        1. hrh | May 28, 2003 11:51pm | #14

          Tried the 1/4" oak plywood and  I would haved considered using it instead of oak risers.   But for some reason they stain different than the solid oak treads.   I don't want to end up with two different colors.   Then again maybe there is a trick in staining 1/4" oak plywood. 

          Boy I thought putting 950 sq feet of hardwood flooring was hard.   This stair business is a totally different monster.  But its fun puzzle.... in a strange sort of way.

          1. User avater
            Qtrmeg | May 29, 2003 12:01am | #15

            Sand the ply first, like 120 grit max, and it doesn't matter, it all ages the same sooner or later.

  5. User avater
    Rugby | May 28, 2003 06:58am | #8

    What about just replacing the carpet on the stairs with new carpet.  Something nice that would compliment your flooring choice.  Just a thought.

    The previous mentions of throwing off the top step rise should not be taken too lightly.  Even a little bit of a difference in that last (or any) step can send some people for a tumble.  Especially people not used to your house.  I'd hate to see dear old Aunt Sally do a header at the top of your steps.

    1. chr | May 28, 2003 07:04am | #9

      Just a note. I was also installing 3/4 flooring in hallways so step height was not a problem.

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