I’ve been asked to replace a few panes of glass in a steel window frame. I haven’t worked with steel windows before. Is there anything special (as in different than working with wood) that I should know?
Obviously, I won’t be using glazing points. I was planning on a dab of glue to hold the pane in place while I glaze.
The glazing that’s there now is extremely hard. It may not be glazing compound. It seems to be an epoxy. I may have a very interesting time getting the old stuff out.
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Replies
Lotsa heat to getthe old stuff out, propane torch even.
As to holding the panes in sash, lay a bead of putty in the frame first, its called "Bedding" the pane. Press it firmly and suction holds it in place as you apply the bezel putty.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"People that never get carried away should be"
its called "Bedding" the pane
You know, sometimes it it just so obvious... after I'm told. Thanks!
I've covered my bench with a sheet of waxed paper and roll out a snake of putty about like pencil diameter. Lay that snake between two bamboo skewers about 3-4" apart at most.
Then take a dowel and roll it over the skewers ( perpendicular) an flatten the snake out. Even as you can. Use a pizza cutter and cut strips about as wide as the glazing stop/rabbet. Apply that way, less pushin and gooshin thata way. And less broken glass if the sash frame is not as flat as the glass is.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"People that never get carried away should be"
When you remove the putty you will see a little hole, that is where the spring clip goes. Most hardware stores carry them.
Aha! Thanks, you mean like this:
http://www.acehardwaresuperstore.com/primeline-glazing-clip-for-steel-window-sash-p-38235.html?ref=42
I still like the idea of bedding the pane like Sphere suggested, but I'll be doing it on site so I don't know how easy it will be to make a nice consistent rope of glazing putty.
Those are the spring clips you need.
Another headsup on steel sashes is use the gray glazing compound. The white stuff you use on wood sashes is not the correct formulation for steel. The gray putty is.
You might have trouble locating the gray putty at the big boxes or even your local hardware stores. Call a couple of local glass suplly stores. You know, the ones yousee installing store fronts.
Dave
And here I thought I was all set. Thanks for the info on the putty. I've never seen it for sale so I just ordered some DAP 1012 glazing compound online.
I haven't done those windows yet and I might not, but I have a question about that DAP 1012 glazing compound.
I experimented with it when I got about 2 months ago. The stuff still hasn't hardened. It's hardened a little, but it's sort of like a firm clay and it breaks apart very easy. It's been in my basement where it's about 65°. If 2 months isn't enough time, I don't see how it's ever going to work.
Does this stuff go bad? Could I have gotten an old batch?
It skins over but stays soft for a LONG time. Thats why I went with solid stops this past summer. That and I hate putty.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"Success is not spontaneous combustion, you have to set yourself on Fire"
The old stuff is probably putty, which is whiting and linseed oil. Glazing compound is more flexible, that old putty is very hard. All advice so far is right on, but for the best job you will want to prime the frame with metal primer, compound does not stick to rusty metal. Also, the spring clips will seat next to the glass and you have to allow space for that, or the glass will break. Allow 1/8 to 3/16 clearance total. A lot of times the glass has broken because rust has pushed the clips hard against the glass so you really need a little expansion room.
Forgot that one myself.
I reglazed over 250 lites in steel sashes about 30 years ago. I had to remove an equal number of lites with that old chicken wire in it. It was a bear of a job for me as a novice, so I hired an old painter that had done lifetime of painting and glazing. We did pretty good for two days, then I loaned him $5 for lunch..... How was I supose to know the bootlegger was only a Block down the street? Didn't see the guy for two months. Thats when he sobered up and remembered I owed him two days wages :)
Dave
It was way too cold to do those windows as originally scheduled, so we postponed it. In the meantime, the customer had me do some other work at her house so I had a chance to get a much better look at those steel basement windows.
What a mess! Rusted shut, many broken panes, a dryer vent held with duct tape in one of the broken panes, rusted muntins - almost all the way through in one case. About the only thing in good shape is the old glazing... it figures.
Unless I get a moment of brilliant insight, I think I'm going to suggest that she just get new windows. I think it would be cheaper.
Yup, vinyl hoppers from HD are what 50 bucks each?Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"Success is not spontaneous combustion, you have to set yourself on Fire"
I'll guarantee they wont last as long as those old iron frames.
I gaurantee they won't either. They also won't be such a pita to repair or replace.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"Success is not spontaneous combustion, you have to set yourself on Fire"
One of the window guys I know was going to get a tool patented to rip them out of the concrete. It was just a slide hammer gizmo, but it worked (did a number on the concrete). Those things are hard to get out.
Most I dealt with slid into a groove in a special block. Came in from above, before sill was bolted on.
Damm near impossible to get the frame out, and marginally easier if ya cut it apart first.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"Success is not spontaneous combustion, you have to set yourself on Fire"
A lot here are in poured foundations. You can saw em out (very slow) torch em out (not a real good idea) beat em out, and pry em out. Either way, no fun.