Seems that, at some point this week, I’ll be re-installing a garage door frame at work.
The garage has been framed, only. My boss figures the (quite short) driveway will be too steep, so he’d like to set the floor of the garage a little lower. The garage door frame will have to be cut out and re-hung, a little lower, to match.
Compared to a regular door, this door frame is looking very large and tall. Uh, any tips? How is this normally done?
I’m thinking I’ll have to set one leg on a block, then prop up the opposite corner with a plank. Plumb first leg, then level the header by kicking the plank until it’s sitting right. Measure between the legs to make sure they’re parallel. Then measure diagonals to check for square.
Oh, and of course I’ll have to add something below the header.
Sounds good on paper, right?
Edited 8/12/2008 7:21 pm ET by Biff_Loman
Replies
Totally lost here
You are trying to lower the door or the floor?
What is there now?
How do you lower a concrete floor?
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It's not poured yet. So: both the garage door frame *and* the floor are going down 5". That is to say, 5" from the original intended floor level.I've just never tried man-handling a large door frame like that. It's not a complicated technical question; I'm only hoping for a heads-up before I look helpless in the eyes of my boss.Editing again: Maybe we do garages differently here. The garage gets framed on top of 4' foundation walls that are formed and poured inside trenches. So right now, the garage foundation has been poured, the trenches back-filled, the garage framed, roof on, etc. Before the siding starts, though, the position of the garage door frame has to be changed, and the mud floor of the garage has to be dug deeper prior to pouring the concrete floor.There we go.Edited 8/12/2008 8:51 pm ET by Biff_Loman
Edited 8/12/2008 8:54 pm ET by Biff_Loman
I seeIt's been a long time since I've seen it that way.You don't need to do all that much then. Leave the ehader where it is but be sure it is toenailed to the king studs, pop the jacks off from under it, probably by cutting nails between with a sawsall.Stick a new false header up - probably a couple 2x6 or lay three 2bys flat under existing header. That would give you a strong 4-1/2" - shim the rest when you trim it outThen after the floor is poured, nail the new jacks in
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If he is just talking about lowering the hieght of the rough opening, probably
dont need to pull the trimmers, just fir down the rough opening, the header will
still support the load above just as it was intended.
In fact I have framed a couple of garages with the header held as high as just under
the top plate, this was done when the hieght of the garage doors or the floor has
not yet been determined.
The garage door is already hung and the springs installed? (I assume this is an over
head door)
with an overhead door, there is no "frame" ,just the tracks that the rollers ride in.
First release tension on the springs, If they are extension springs, it is relatively easy
but: if it is a torsion spring be extremely carefull, they are dangerous!
After that, just dismantle each sections hinges, starting at the top, remove your
tracks, Then set each door section in place starting at the bottom, holding
temporarily in place with a 16 penny nail bent over, reinstall hinges as you go. Then
reset your tracks, checking for square. Lastly retension the spring.
Or were you just refering to the garage door jambs as the "frame"?
Holy cow! you made me go back and read again. Whew! several times he mentions GD Frame but never just the G door, but maybe...Good points
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It's been a while since I've made myself this misunderstood.Frame, NOT rough opening: no door installed yet. Just three pieces of primed 1x pine forming a big-#### frame. . . but I obviously I want the thing dead-on so that the door doesn't have issues later.Geez, I knew I was overthinking it, and mulled over whether I should post here, but I regret bringing it up now.
What you are referring to is a piece of either 1x8 or 2x8 that will be essentially used as a brickmould for the garage door opening. The easiest way to do this is by what was suggested before. Remove the 1x8 and pack down the garage door header. Reinstall trim and you're golden.
I was thinking of framing as the structrual frame, not the trim.So understanding what you are talking about, I have to ask is the siding on yet too?I would yank the whole frame and start over by blocking down the structural frame first, then the sheathing and wrap, then re-trim it.We don't put that 'frame' on the thing until the door gets hung most of the time.
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