I,m a home owner trying to learn enough to put a new layer of shingles over the origional layer correctly. I asked at my local home+garden store how to replace the electrical mast boot without having my service disconnected to put the new boot over my wires. any roofers out there?
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spiderman.
if you cut a boot its worthless. do you really need to replace it? becase the only time ,as far as i can tell, you can put a boot on is befor the power is hooked up. i normally do is coat it with a good layer of black mammy. underneath and on top.
maybe someelse has a better idea. i bet piffin might he's had about 20 years more expeience than me.
tyke
Just another day in paradise
You said same I would, except that there is other potential for probelms when going over old shingles. He seems to have made up his mind already, but if the existing shingles are cupping and curling, they should be removed. if there has been ANY signs of leaking they should be removed to inspect the sheathing and possibly replace some of it.I would guess that only a third of old roofs ready for re-roofing are good candidates for layovers, so a word to the wise...Anyway, I just remove the shingles in contact with the mast head flashing and slide it up the pole, run the shingle first under it, cutting snug around the pole, add pookie, tjhen seat the flashing in it, cut, fit and nail the next shingle with more pookie sealing it in, and go on with the rest of the job.
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i wont do roof overs on any roofs that have any sort of dormer type roof anymore. too many problems come from that kind of thing.tyke
Just another day in paradise
what you need is a split boot, if I remember correctly Oatley makes them. Look in the plumbing department. Typical ones I have seen or used have neoprene corrigated boot with metal plates moulded in at the split seam.
You remove the old unit, tin snips and a flat bar help, and slip the slit boot into place. The slit is sealed with a set of screws. About one an inch along the seam. The body is caulked down, be careful as some warn against using the normal petroleum based Black Jack or roof tar, and nailed or screwed. I use screws.
I had my doubts about them at first, they look murphoid, but using just a little care and as best i can tell I have never had one leak. I have also seen ones installed a decade before and they were still sound, flexible and doing their job. They are a little more expensive but they save time and trouble. In the right spot they are well worth it. When doing service work I try to keep one or two on hand.