Replies

1. 
   Jason | Jul 18, 2001 10:22pm | #1

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   I'd say yes. The heat on the shingles coupled with the expansion and contraction between the two materials will certainly defeat most caulks I can think of, and step flashing is an easy, no brainer way to help ward off water penetration at that joint. The roofers, if they don't do it, probably figure the OLD step flashing will do the job of keeping water out, but like anything else, who wants to get water between two layers of a roofing material? You know that can't be good in the long run. Reflash.

1. 
   Qtrmeg_ | Jul 19, 2001 01:12am | #2

   *Jason >>> "step flashing is an easy, no brainer way to help ward off water penetration at that joint"A lot easier to say than do, I would expect that it is a terrible pain on most jobs because the original install didn't allow for that. I like to see the step flashing nailed to the wall with a roofer, over the flashing so only half of the head holds it. Someday the flashing has to be removed, doh. I like to see the roofing shingles kept back off the flashing so that the flashing has a chance to do what it is supposed to. I like to see the siding 3/4" over the level of the roofing, and nailed back so flashing can be replaced. I like to see the reveals on the roofing and siding straight. Simple details, but something I never see.Phil, take a look at what exists, you may find a simple re-roof project or a job from hell. If you have to frig with the siding you have to figure the cost to make the siding whole again. If the siding has to be cut back or have nails removed it may make sense to have that done before the roofer starts. Btw, caulking? Ya, right after you get done tarring the chimney.I did read the article on re-roofing and I wonder about the longevity issue, sometime I will go back and see if there is anything like proof. The claims seemed a little extreme.

1. 
   PatchoguePhil | Jul 19, 2001 05:37am | #3

   *QtrmegI suspect the roofer for this estimate didn't want to mess with the siding to install step-flashing. The siding is those 30" wide by 15" high asbestos/rock siding shingles nailed to exterior gypsum sheet-rock type sheathing.BTW, just curious: the estimate for this roof-over is $3300 for 24 square (I measured 21 1/2 square actual). I forget the brand but he specified 25 year architectural shingles, Two 4" plumbing ventpipe boots, and 4 roof mushroom vents. I have absolutely no clue if this is average price or not. I would rather see a ridge vent than the mushroom vents. What do you think about this?Lookin for advice,Phil

1. 
   lonecat | Jul 19, 2001 05:51am | #4

   *I've done a lot of roofing, but never have just added layers. Have always wondered what the reroof cats do about flashing. Lets say that the job described above has the old shingles in pretty decent shape and is a good candidate for another layer, WHAT do you do for flashing? I don't think that price sounds so bad.

1. 
   Ralph_Wicklund | Jul 19, 2001 06:17am | #5

   *That's almost what I pay for a 3-tab reroof on my jobs and includes tearoff and reflashing EVERYTHING. No shortcuts. If there is any hidden damage then the price is adjusted.

2. 
   cabinentguy | Jul 29, 2001 06:51pm | #6

   *Pail, I would say that your estimate for $3300 is a little high. The price of roofing has gone up here at home due to some very bad weather but, still, there has to be a reasonable price for the job. Good luck.

3. 
   Mike_Smith | Jul 29, 2001 07:43pm | #7

   *phil... the price sounds low to me...if you go tear-off & reroof.. it would be easy to get prices from good roofers here for $9600 or more....and you're in LI , right ? metro pricing ....

4. 
   PatchoguePhil | Jul 30, 2001 05:05am | #8

   *MikeYes this is on Long Island. Mother-In-Laws house is in Coram (mid Suffolk County). This is a re-roof, no tearoff. She's received 3 estimates so far. The one I mentioned; one written on the back of a biz card - no specs just $$$; and one that was 50% higher. Her neighbor just had a re-roof done. Advised she talk with the neighbor for a possible recommendation. Best way I think.Hard to get the good roofers who do the job right (step flashing, drip edge, etc etc), since they are so busy.

5. 
   Bob_Nora | Jul 30, 2001 05:32am | #9

   *Just curious Phil, how many roofs are already on? If there are already 2 in place, tear off is required by code. Also the $3300 sounds awful low. What's being left out?

6. 
   PatchoguePhil | Jul 30, 2001 05:58am | #10

   *BobThere's one existing layer of standard 3-tab shingles.Phil

2. 
   PatchoguePhil | Jul 30, 2001 05:58am | #11

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   Mother-In-Law is getting her house re-roofed and she asked me to look over the estimate (foreshadowing of problem!). The house has an attached garage on the house gable end with the garage ridge in line with the house ridge. The garage roof is much lower than the house. It's in this area where the garage roof butts against the house sidewall that I have concern with the estimate. BTW, I have read the recent re-roofing article in FHB.

   The estimate states to re-roof over the existing 3-tab roof with architectural shingles and to "seal the garage roof shingles to the side of the house". No mention of step flashing. It is my understanding that step flashing should be used where the lower roof butts against the side wall of the house, and slid under the house siding. I'm just trying to verify this so I can advise my M-I-L to specify that step flashing should be used as the proper way to do this job. I don't believe any kind of caulking or "sealing" will keep water out correctly.

   I'm kinda stuck bewteen a rock & hard place. My wife wants me to make sure that her Mom is getting a proper roof job. Mother-In-Law figures that "if she really needed step flashing it would be in the estimate".

   Am I right that "sealing" is the wrong way and step flashing is a must?

   TIA
   Phil