FHB Logo Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter X Instagram Tiktok YouTube Plus Icon Close Icon Navigation Search Icon Navigation Search Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon Skip to content
Subscribe
Log In
  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Restoration
  • Videos
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House
  • Podcast
Log In

Discussion Forum

Discussion Forum

Reality Check – Cost of Electrical Sub

JFink | Posted in General Discussion on September 26, 2006 06:06am

Let me preface this by saying that I know it’s near impossible to quote a price sight unseen, especially based on a part of the country where you have no idea what going prices are…

That said, I got a quote from an electrician for rough wiring in an 800 sq. ft. basement remodel. Nothing too fancy, just basic receptacles, switches, can lights, and a couple of electric baseboard heaters that would likely require their own circuits.

$3,800 to $4,200 seemed a bit steep to me. I’ve had smaller jobs roughed in for like $600…am I just in need of a good reality check here, or does this quote seem on the high side?

If I’m out of line, feel free to slap me silly folks. I have no pride when it comes to guesstimating for subs…

Justin Fink – FHB Editorial

Your Friendly Neighborhood Moderator

Reply
  • X
  • facebook
  • linkedin
  • pinterest
  • email
  • add to favorites Log in or Sign up to save your favorite articles

Replies

  1. User avater
    PaulBinCT | Sep 26, 2006 06:16pm | #1

    How many lights on how many switches, etc; Justin? That includes material and fixtures? You're in Ffld county right? Doesn't strike me as outrageous (maybe a bit high) depending on the details...

    PaulB

    1. FHB Editor
      JFink | Sep 26, 2006 06:20pm | #2

      I'm in Farmington Valley (so Hartford county)

      probably 12 cans, 15 receptacles, and a half dozen switches. This will include materials, yes.

      Just seems high to me for some reason...what have you found?Justin Fink - FHB Editorial

      Your Friendly Neighborhood Moderator

      1. User avater
        PaulBinCT | Sep 26, 2006 06:48pm | #5

        Well, maybe I've been overpaying but I'd guesstimate labor at:

        (6) light circuits @ $100.00     $600.00

        (12) cans @ $75.00                 $900.00

        (15) recept @ $75.00               $1125.00

        (2?) baseboards @ $150.00     $300.00

        Misc farting around:                   $200.00

        Labor:                                      $3125.00

        Materials:

        (12) HALO cans avg: @12.00       $144.00

        Recepts, baseboards, boxes

        etc etc etc                                    $350.00

                                                           =======

                                                            $3600ish...

         

        1. FHB Editor
          JFink | Sep 26, 2006 06:56pm | #8

          $75 to hook up a receptacle? I should get electrician's license!

          by the way, what hourly rate are you assuming for labor? just curious...Justin Fink - FHB Editorial

          Your Friendly Neighborhood Moderator

          1. User avater
            PaulBinCT | Sep 26, 2006 07:01pm | #9

            I'm not really Justin.  Most of my work involves small electrical such as adding a couple circuits, installing a few fixtures and my experience is the two guys I use just give me an essentially flat rate per unit...

            PaulB

          2. User avater
            Gene_Davis | Sep 26, 2006 07:24pm | #12

            You can do it all yourself.  It ain't rocket science.

            Get this, it is all you need.  Probably available free from your library.

            View Image

             

             

        2. ravz | Sep 26, 2006 07:19pm | #11

          6) light circuits @ $100.00     $600.00

          Wouldnt the lights be on 1 circuit? 

          (12) cans @ $75.00                 $900.00

          How can it possibly take an hour to nail up a recessed light housing and make 3 maretted connections? 

          (15) recept @ $75.00               $1125.00

           

          Am I also missing something?

          1. User avater
            PaulBinCT | Sep 26, 2006 07:28pm | #15

            I'm extrapolating rav...

            If I call up my guy and ask him to install a few added recepts in a kitchen remodel, I expect to pay him about $75 per.  I got the 6 circuits from Justin's description, unless I misunderstood him.  That's what I'm used to paying to have either of the two guys I use to hookup and install a new switch leg (not a new home run for each).

            As I said, I may be overpaying some but since my projects are mostly small stuff I like that I can call these guys and they show up on time, do the work promptly and don't give me attitude to do small jobs...

            PaulB

        3. DoRight | Sep 26, 2006 07:31pm | #19

          Holy Crapppp!  Just for starters - $100 for a can?  Good for you - -  I guess!

          1. jpeeks | Sep 27, 2006 02:26am | #54

            In NYC a can will go for $150-200 ,The good news is that includes the can.

          2. sledgehammer | Sep 27, 2006 02:37am | #55

            If you don't like the price, find someone else. I'm sure if you shop long and hard enough you can find someone to misquote the job and threaten lawsuit if he doesn't do it at a loss.

            Does your electrician do brain surgury? I have a price that seems really expensive and looking to save some cash.

          3. DoRight | Sep 27, 2006 08:49pm | #74

            sledge, your post is the bottomline and wimilar to my first.  No one here can say what a job should cost given particulars and the particulars of the location.  The obvious way to test the fairness and reasonableness of a bid is to get competeitve bids.  We are a free market economy afterall.  IF labor or contractors are scares, then they will charge you accordingly.

  2. GHR | Sep 26, 2006 06:23pm | #3

    2 days work for 1 man plus parts.

    1. FHB Editor
      JFink | Sep 26, 2006 06:27pm | #4

      Right - what is this guy charging per hour?? Because the materials won't be more than $500 off the shelf. Even with a 50% markup, if he's charging me $4,200 - that's like $215 per hour!

      Are you saying that you think his numbers sound about right? or that it should be 2 days for one guy, plus materials?Justin Fink - FHB Editorial

      Your Friendly Neighborhood Moderator

      1. GHR | Sep 27, 2006 03:04am | #57

        The fellow is ripping you off.$1600-2000 for labor is $100/hour which is a great rate.Some compensation (either a markup or time to puchase) for the cans and trim is proper. No compensation for the boxes, wire, or misc parts.

        1. dutchblue | Sep 27, 2006 04:05am | #58

          Just curious.  Why do you see no need to mark up boxes, wire, or misc parts?

          1. User avater
            PaulBinCT | Sep 27, 2006 04:13am | #59

            An interesting observation on reading through the entire thread is that the prices (as you'd expect statistically) seem to follow a "bell curve". That is to say that most of the prices actually seem to fall in around the middle with a small number of outlying data at either extreme...

          2. DougU | Sep 27, 2006 04:32am | #61

            I don't have any idea whether or not the price that you got is high/low/in-between but I do know that the more prices that I see the more I get a feel for what something costs.

            Get a few more quotes, see what prices you get, if they all come in around the same amount theres probably a good chance that that's the going rate.

            As a part timer your probably just not seeing enough of this particular situation to feel comfortable in your knowledge of the pricing. Only one thing going to cure that!

            Doug

             

          3. sledgehammer | Sep 27, 2006 04:40am | #62

            Yea I was wrong...

             

            Go to the store price up all the material...

            Then get 3 prices....

            Add all your time in at your going rate... and when your done had you gone with the original estimate on paper you'd have saved enough money to buy lunch.... if you like cold beans in a can.

          4. junkhound | Sep 27, 2006 04:54am | #63

            Go to the store price up all the material

            Just to provide counterweight and humor? (yeah, I know we are NOT discussing DIY, but)....

            Method here is forget the store and to go out to a shed and just pick out the materials needed that have been accumulated at garage sales/ auctions/surplus over 30 years, then just do it in about the time it would take most to just 'go to the store'...<G>

          5. FHB Editor
            JFink | Sep 27, 2006 05:16am | #66

            <<As a part timer your probably just not seeing enough of this particular situation to feel comfortable in your knowledge of the pricing. Only one thing going to cure that!>>

            Wise words Doug, part timing isn't without it's pitfalls. Thanks for the help.Justin Fink - FHB Editorial

            Your Friendly Neighborhood Moderator

          6. calvin | Sep 27, 2006 03:05pm | #67

            And you thought lugging all those gift bags to the fest was a pain in the ####.

            See, you get what you drag outta the closet.

            Now, if you'd have let those saws boxes, drill motors and nailers fall into the bag, just think what you'd have gotten.  A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.

            Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

            Quittin' Time

             

          7. DoRight | Sep 27, 2006 08:58pm | #75

            The better question is WHY DOES ANYONE THINK it makes sense to market up materials other than ,"that is the way people do it"?  Sure there is an expense to source and pick up materials.  Many a flat fee or an hourly rate for that service makes sense, but  . . .

            It is kind of like taking your car into the shop.  They charge you $50 per hour.  This is not all labor cost.  It is overhead.  DUH!  Well, should "shop supplies" be included in overhead?  Sure, why not.  Should the cost of disposing of hazardous materials be in overhead?  Sure, why not.   Then why are these items itemized on your bill as separate charges?

            I personally think the market up on materials is . . . no correct word comes to mind.   Not an insult, not wrong,  may just pointless.  Materials are what they are.  They charge me $50 an hour to cover the labor, your truck, your tools, your home office, your phone, etc.  Going after materials which various by HUGH factors makes no sense.

            If I chose $30 a square foot marble tile vs a $3 tile shoule the contractor get his fixed labor rate plus a $10 mark up on the mable vs a $1 mark up on the ceramic?  Makes no sense. 

          8. CAGIV | Sep 27, 2006 09:02pm | #76

            I'm not trying to be insulting, just an honest question, are you a contractor or a home-owner.

            Finishing a 1000 sqft basement for 7k is a joke, there's simply no way it is possible to do so by hiring someone else, I highly doubt it could be done even DIY for that much.

             

          9. junkhound | Sep 27, 2006 10:23pm | #77

            Finishing a 1000 sqft basement for 7k is a joke, ........, I highly doubt it could be done even DIY for that much.

            No quibble with the hire by somebody else part; but,  even $7K to me is very high for DIY 1000 sq ft basement (esp if 14 yards of concrete are not involved) , only OK for a lazy DIY maybe ....  see post #33. 

          10. CAGIV | Sep 27, 2006 10:35pm | #78

            Think a guy with out a back 40 of shed's full of material ;)

            If you had to go out and purchase all the studs, all the insulation, drywall, electrical, plumbing, paint, fixtures, flooring etc.

             

          11. junkhound | Sep 27, 2006 11:38pm | #80

            Totally agree,   that was my point making a distinction between true DIY and 'lazy DIY'; ..... posted to take exception to your inference that it probably could not be done by (any) DIY for $7K. .  <G>

            I think I'd have heart problems if I needed to go actually buy anything at full retail (but did buy some HF sds bits a while back at 1/2 off)

          12. DoRight | Sep 27, 2006 11:42pm | #82

            Concrete?  Who said anything about 14 yds of concrete?

            As for the 7 Gs, it surprised me as well.

          13. junkhound | Sep 28, 2006 12:00am | #85

            Concrete?  Who said anything about 14 yds of concrete?

            ref # 33, the 600 sq ft basement i did for $1200 included 14 yards of concrete, which was almost all the cost.

          14. DoRight | Sep 27, 2006 11:41pm | #81

            I know the owner and I know the house.  7 K.  It is what it is.

            I personnally finished a four hundred sq ft basement room including work on the stairs (required new treads, and major work on the open side and a skirt board on teh other) for less than five hundred bucks in materials, including LOWES cheap bruber carpet.

            SO .....

          15. izzycat | Sep 27, 2006 11:34pm | #79

            "If I chose $30 a square foot marble tile vs a $3 tile shoule the contractor get his fixed labor rate plus a $10 mark up on the mable vs a $1 mark up on the ceramic?  Makes no sense. "

            One reason for markup is that more expensive materials represent a higher liability.  You drop a $3 tile, nobody really cares.  Drop a $30 tile and you need to stop and think a minute.  The labor isn't necessarily any higher, but you know Murphy is always lurking around the corner, and markup is one way of addressing that.

          16. DoRight | Sep 27, 2006 11:43pm | #83

            izzycat, I never met anyone trying to screw me who did not have a "good" arguement as to why it was necessary.  LOL!

          17. izzycat | Sep 27, 2006 11:51pm | #84

            "I never met anyone trying to screw me who did not have a "good" arguement as to why it was necessary"

            Really?  My experience is that many people will try to screw you for no reason other than they can.  The ones you have to be really careful of are the ones who have "good" reasons, because they might actually convince you that you're not being screwed.

  3. PlaneWood | Sep 26, 2006 06:49pm | #6

    Do like I did once.  I got the city code manual and studied it then wired my own house.  When done, the city inspector spent 2 hrs going over everything and finally said "Well, I can'f find anything wrong, so I guess I have to pass it."  This was in Tulsa OK back in the days when if you weren't union, nothing got passed.

    Of all the inspectors that came out, only the framing inspector had a gig.  I had to double up on one span of ceiling joists (2 story house). 

    The foundation inspector commented "You dug all those piers by hand?"  He spent about 5 minutes on the site.

    PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)
    PlaneWood

    1. FHB Editor
      JFink | Sep 26, 2006 06:53pm | #7

      That's what I'm leaning towards. By at least doing the rough-in work myself, I save the laborious part of the job for myself, I can buy all the cable/receptacles/cans to save on markup, get approved for rough-in by the inspector and then bring in the sparky to make the connections.

      Anybody else doing this?Justin Fink - FHB Editorial

      Your Friendly Neighborhood Moderator

      1. User avater
        IBEWChuck | Sep 26, 2006 07:19pm | #10

        You might have a hard time finding a legit electrician to "connect" something that someone else roughed in. Once I touch "it", I accept liability for the device,fixture, or whatever.

        Better to line up your "hook up" person and have your work looked at ,by that person, before covering up the work.

        Good Luck  Chuck

        1. FHB Editor
          JFink | Sep 26, 2006 07:24pm | #13

          Couldn't I set the fixtures, rough-in the romex, then call an electrician to hook it all up before the drywaller comes in? As long as it passes inspection for rough-in, why not have him connect everything before covering the walls? that way he can see what he's doing and doublecheck me.Justin Fink - FHB Editorial

          Your Friendly Neighborhood Moderator

          1. User avater
            IBEWChuck | Sep 26, 2006 07:31pm | #18

            Sounds like a workable plan. Just be sure to include the electrician in your plan. I hate the call that informs me that the inspection is scheduled for"in the morning" and can you come over TONIGHT to help me get ready for the inspector.

          2. User avater
            jhausch | Sep 26, 2006 09:09pm | #35

            Here's another take on this - if you have a good relationship with an electrician. 

            Ask him if you can be his helper/laborer.  Let him suggest what you are worth per hour.   That time/$ will come of the bill before the bottom line.

            You'll do the same stuff you are signing up for now, but under his/her watchful eye, not before.

            http://jhausch.blogspot.comAdventures in Home BuildingAn online journal covering the preparation and construction of our new home.

            Edited 9/26/2006 2:10 pm by jhausch

      2. DoRight | Sep 26, 2006 07:34pm | #21

        JFink, lights, switches, outlets?  I would say monkeywork, but then someone might be offended.  Get fancy with Ground Fault stuff, 220, furnances and then you need to do more homework.  Otherwise, if you have a weekend . . . go for it.

        1. FHB Editor
          JFink | Sep 26, 2006 07:39pm | #22

          I should note that this is not my own house, it's a job - otherwise I would probably do it myself. Thing is, my insurance won't likely cover me if something goes wrong with this type of thing...

          Electrical work certainly ain't my specialty, and I would be slow at it. That said, I don't see a reason why I can't pull the wires and provide the materials, then call the expert to make all the connections. Like I said above, I can wait a bit longer on teh drywall, so that the electrician can doublecheck my work as he makes the connections.

          Seems like it would work, and no major liability issues that I can foresee. then again, It's wishful thinking maybe.Justin Fink - FHB Editorial

          Your Friendly Neighborhood Moderator

          1. CAGIV | Sep 26, 2006 07:59pm | #23

            I don't see a reason why I can't pull the wires and provide the materials, then call the expert to make all the connections.

            Say that outloud 3 times and make believe you're the contractor and a homeowner is saying it to you ;)

            Seriously though, if you have a good working relationship with an electrical contractor already you may be able to swing it... around here if I tried that on any of the "good" electrians they'd tell me where to stick it ;)

          2. User avater
            PaulBinCT | Sep 26, 2006 08:04pm | #24

            Why would you want to do that Justin? Just curious... after all, if it turns out that that's what it costs, why risk the aggravation and any liability that might arise?

            I wouldn't, FWTW.

            PaulB

          3. FHB Editor
            JFink | Sep 26, 2006 08:10pm | #25

            Because it will be a whole hell of a lot cheaper. And customer budget is a concern on this one. We are already over budget, so I'm trying not to break her heart by telling her that the electrical will cost $4g'sJustin Fink - FHB Editorial

            Your Friendly Neighborhood Moderator

          4. User avater
            PaulBinCT | Sep 26, 2006 08:13pm | #26

            I hear ya Justin... It appears we recently lost a job because I had to tell the client that her budget wasn't realistic for what she wanted to do. Good luck!

            PaulB

          5. FHB Editor
            JFink | Sep 26, 2006 08:23pm | #27

            well I can't blame her, $20,000 for an 800 sq.ft. basement does seem like a lot of money...she's probably going to cry!Justin Fink - FHB Editorial

            Your Friendly Neighborhood Moderator

          6. junkhound | Sep 26, 2006 08:33pm | #32

            $20,000 for an 800 sq.ft. basement

            Good touchstone and encouragement for us DIY to keep at it.   Dug out (by hand) son's 600 sq ft. part basement 5 years ago and poured walls and installed sink and electrical, 2 new windows, french drains, etc.

            Total DIY cost was about $1200, of which $1100 was concrete.  All electrical, wood, carpet, cabinets, plumbing, etc. was surplus.  

            Also lost 15 pounds doing it - PRICELESS <G>

          7. CAGIV | Sep 26, 2006 09:06pm | #34

            20 grand for 800 sqft?

            so you're either working for peanuts or that is one skimpped down basement.

            We work out to between 50-55 a sqft on most of basement finishes, grant it they're a tad nicer then average, but not that much.  That get's you a bedroom, a family room, maybe a some simple built in, a bathroom and if needed an egress window.

            We can get down to about 45 sqft for if we skimp here and there and have gone as high as 80 per sqft for an entire basement.

            Carpet alone is going to work out to almost 5 sqft for anything above crap, that don't leave a whole lot of $.

             

          8. FHB Editor
            JFink | Sep 26, 2006 09:16pm | #36

            This is a pretty simple basement CAG -

            - Already has a slider and window, so egress isn't an issue.

            - There's insulation on several of the walls, because it's a walkout.

            - No bathroom, bedroom, or anything else special - just a rec room area, some storage and an office separated by french doors.

            - We're going with cork flooring rather than carpet, so it's only about $3 per sq. ft. over an unfinished slab.

             Justin Fink - FHB Editorial

            Your Friendly Neighborhood Moderator

          9. CAGIV | Sep 26, 2006 09:52pm | #40

            That's still pretty darn cheap!

            but hey, if you're making enough money at it to keep you happy, more power to you.

            as an aside... if you'd have charged 500 more.... you could have had that festool saw!

             

          10. FHB Editor
            JFink | Sep 26, 2006 09:58pm | #41

            Maybe our hourly rates and markups are different CAG? I'm not sure...

            Then again, this ain't my full time job - that's to keep ya'll in line on the forum!Justin Fink - FHB Editorial

            Your Friendly Neighborhood Moderator

          11. CAGIV | Sep 26, 2006 10:13pm | #43

            Hope you don't spend to much time on just me ;)

          12. FHB Editor
            JFink | Sep 26, 2006 10:15pm | #44

            well I did just wander over to the French doors thread...another mess to sort through.

             Justin Fink - FHB Editorial

            Your Friendly Neighborhood Moderator

          13. CAGIV | Sep 26, 2006 10:36pm | #45

            hey now, leave my post alone over there... I was carefull to qualify my comments and not cross any lines...

            well there was that one post I guess...

          14. joeh | Sep 27, 2006 06:27pm | #68

            Justin, you aren't that red haired kid on TOH in your spare time, are you?

            :)

            Joe H

          15. MikeSmith | Sep 27, 2006 12:40am | #52

            justin.... since it's a job.. and not for yourself

            figure out who you want to work with then have them price it  ( oh, yeah...you already did  )

            you're in CT... i'm in RI....licensed electricians are in demand, being in demand means the price goes up

            either take the guys price or find someone else

             

             if you take the guys price, roll it into your bid and go... stop agonizing over  it

            can you find someone at a lower price ?   maybe... is it worth the hassle  ?   maybe... is it worth the liability of doing it yourself  ....no

            it's not for yourself... it's for a customerMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

          16. FHB Editor
            JFink | Sep 27, 2006 05:13am | #64

            all excellent points Mike - I spoke with the customer tonight, we're all squared away.

            What would I do without you veterans to keep me in line ;)

             Justin Fink - FHB Editorial

            Your Friendly Neighborhood Moderator

          17. junkhound | Sep 26, 2006 08:26pm | #29

            Was going to suggest that you give the HO a try at doing some of it -- then I recalled trying to teach a 40 YO guy who had hardly ever done anything mechanical or electrical how to strip romex and the internal pvc and install an outlet.  Could'nt get the guy to learn, even with aircraft type strippers, how to NOT halfway cut the wire thru while stripping. 

            Other possibility is to cut back the scale of the electrical work?

            Only commercial work I've done is volunteer for church and school, usually could only rely one or 2 others to do any of the work to not have to redo the work myself prior to inspections.

          18. FHB Editor
            JFink | Sep 26, 2006 08:30pm | #30

            This woman lives alone, and is not about to pull the wires on her own. I think the only options are to cut the project in other areas. The price just keeps going up - and I admit that it's partly because my original (rough) estimate was way too low to be realistic. I grossly underestimated what these tradesman are charging for jobs...

            I wouldn't be surprised if she balks on the whole thing at this point - but I'll keep ya'll posted.Justin Fink - FHB Editorial

            Your Friendly Neighborhood Moderator

          19. User avater
            carloa007 | Sep 26, 2006 08:45pm | #33

            Around here (upstate NY) I've seen $75 - $125 per box.

            Its a lot of dough. But like you mention, the liability is the kicker.

            You can try to work with the sub to reduce the price. Maybe you can hang all the cans, the boxes, etc. Maybe even pull the rough. Doesnt hurt to ask.

            If all else fails, do the work yourself, and have inspector go over it with fine toothed comb.

          20. FHB Editor
            JFink | Sep 26, 2006 09:18pm | #37

            am I able to do the electrical myself? I thought you had to be licensed for reasons of liability. Am I wrong?Justin Fink - FHB Editorial

            Your Friendly Neighborhood Moderator

          21. User avater
            PaulBinCT | Sep 26, 2006 09:27pm | #38

            Where I am Justin, I couldn't even pull a permit showing elec work without a licensed electrician signed on.  I suspect you'd find something similar, not to mention that yes you are (as far as I know) prohibited from doing elec work for hire in CT. Plus, my liability insurance would laugh in my face if I tried to file a claim for elec work I did.

            PaulB

          22. FHB Editor
            JFink | Sep 26, 2006 09:32pm | #39

            That's what I was figuring Paul - besides...I know I would electrocute myself. Electrical work is like voodoo magic to me...it's beyond my understanding in most cases.Justin Fink - FHB Editorial

            Your Friendly Neighborhood Moderator

          23. DoRight | Sep 26, 2006 10:45pm | #48

            Four grand?  Shop around.  My brother-in-law had his basement framed, concrete floor broken up for new bathroom, bathroom plumbed, drywalled, cabinets installed in bath, additional heat ducts run, three new doors, and finished trim done for 7 grand.  Oh, did I mention the 7 grand included wiring?  Granted, basment was about 1000 sq., but do the math.

          24. FHB Editor
            JFink | Sep 26, 2006 10:49pm | #49

            holy cow....$7,000 for 1,000 sq. ft.??

            Don't let CAG see this post, he'll really start to second guess his pricing ;)Justin Fink - FHB Editorial

            Your Friendly Neighborhood Moderator

          25. User avater
            EricPaulson | Sep 26, 2006 11:50pm | #50

            Hey Justin,

            You're electrician is not trying to rip you off, only tring to make a profit and stay in business.

            If you are licensed and have insurance to cover the house burning down and killing the occupants as well as possibly killing or injuring a rescue worker than go for it!

            Who created this budget anyway?? You better be careful or you will really just wish you stuck to your day job.

            Sorry for the smack in the face. I can't figure how you are going to cover your azz lt alone make money on that job.

            Eric[email protected]

             

             

            It's Never Too Late To Become What You Might Have Been

             

             

             

          26. FHB Editor
            JFink | Sep 27, 2006 12:05am | #51

            Well, it was a bit of a smack in the face, but that's ok - you're just speaking your mind.

            That said, you have to start somewhere. Sure, I'm young and not as experienced as many of you. But I am licensed, qualified, and eager to go. I don't take work that I don't understand, or that is beyond my skills. Working part time means that I can make good money, and be very competitively priced doing it. I work alone, have no family to provide for, and don't have to worry about health, dental, etc. so my rates are usually lower than the full time crews. I take only as much work as I want or can handle, and I focus on keeping my clients very happy.

            I understand your points about the electrical work, and I've already said that I will likely sub out the whole job.

            Thanks for the post.

            To others: I'm quickly reminded how great this forum is because you all gave me great feedback - over 50 posts in a half a day. Thanks a million guys/gals.Justin Fink - FHB Editorial

            Your Friendly Neighborhood Moderator

          27. User avater
            G80104 | Sep 27, 2006 02:56am | #56

              Whats a plane ticket cost from Denver to Ct. ? I could get you a guy with a license drop in & do the rough for under $800 . You supply the materials & the plane ticket. looks likea 10 hr rough.

              Time to look outside the box!

          28. FHB Editor
            JFink | Sep 27, 2006 05:14am | #65

            haha - now we're talking! Does he mind flying in the cargo hold? :)Justin Fink - FHB Editorial

            Your Friendly Neighborhood Moderator

          29. DoRight | Sep 27, 2006 08:43pm | #72

            Eric, might all be ture, but then how can a guy get an entire basement finished for 7 grand including electrical? 

          30. DoRight | Sep 27, 2006 08:46pm | #73

            I mean four grand?  What does an electician get for wiring an entire 2000 sq ft house, with outdoor lighting, 220 runs, individual home runs for major appliances, etc.

            If four grand is for a basement with none of the above and only a few switches and can lights, his bid for a house would be 40 grand.  Does that sound right to anyone?

          31. CAGIV | Sep 27, 2006 12:46am | #53

            I gotta see what a 7 dollar a square foot bathroom looks like...

            Some how I ain't buying, Sheet rock alone would be around 3k

            I don't like working for peanuts.

          32. DoRight | Sep 27, 2006 08:42pm | #71

            I was also surprised at the low cost.  Anymore, you can't ask anyone to think about lifting a hammer for less than $200.  Ask him to swing it . . ..

          33. User avater
            CapnMac | Sep 27, 2006 07:50pm | #70

            so I'm trying not to break her heart by telling her that the electrical will cost $4g's

            That's some tough sledding.  Mind you, the change i nthe practice law in Texas two years ago doesn't let me do any "for profit" work on line voltage at all.  Doesn't mean I can't "work a deal" with an electrical contractor (just that I must, by the law).Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)

          34. moltenmetal | Sep 26, 2006 08:26pm | #28

            Thanks for the reminder why I DIY- that $10 copy of "Electrical Code Simplified" is really paying dividends!

            What's in it for you if you do it yourself for this client?  If I were hiring the work out, I'd want a licensed electrician to do the work.  No offense to you- I'm sure you'd do a fine job of what sounds like relatively simple work in this case- but these guys are licensed for a reason.

          35. Stuart | Sep 26, 2006 08:32pm | #31

            "That said, I don't see a reason why I can't pull the wires and provide the materials, then call the expert to make all the connections."

            I'm waiting for one of the resident electricians to suggest this may be like if they were to buy a bunch of 2x4s, cut them to size and lay them out on the ground, then call a carpenter to nail them together.   :-)

          36. DoRight | Sep 26, 2006 10:42pm | #46

            Let us know if you find a sparky to bite on your plan.  sounds good to me, but I would bet you would pay him a pretty penny as he sees you as between a rock and a hard place.

          37. FHB Editor
            JFink | Sep 26, 2006 10:43pm | #47

            yeah, I'm likely going to just bite the bullet. Or rather, tell the HO to bite the bullet. She seems confident that we will work it out somehow...I'll just wait for her to figure it out and let me know...haha! (I wish)Justin Fink - FHB Editorial

            Your Friendly Neighborhood Moderator

      3. bps092 | Sep 26, 2006 10:06pm | #42

        I would ask them first though, once I roughed out a whole remodel with the agreement that they would simply check everything and tie it into the main. They came out, went to home depot and out for lunch, came back and they ripped out everything we did and charged us for all the labor and for their own wire. Before you make any agreements or prework get it on paper!

      4. User avater
        CapnMac | Sep 27, 2006 07:29pm | #69

        Anybody else doing this?

        Yep, me.  At least on my house.  I feel a lot more comfortable roughing in & fishing in my 50 y/o house, than having the Helper go through the learning curve of, Oh, walls, ceilings & floors sheathed in 1x6 T&G (in 1951-spec #2 construction grade Sugar Pine) . . .

        I try to have about an hour's work for the JM with the contractor I use; he gets a pretty easy job of just making up final connections & closing the covers.  I get licensed work that backstops any uh-ohs I might do (none yet, knock wood).

        Nothing as big as an entire basement, so, no having to go pull a permit.  That will be later when the service gets changed.Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)

  4. ccal | Sep 26, 2006 07:25pm | #14

    My electricians charge $3.00 a sq ft for remodel work and that includes all materials except fixtures. 2.50 sq ft new work, same deal. Goes up a little if there are a lot of can lights or fans or if they have to fish more than a few wires. I am in Alabama though so I can still turn a profit on a $100 per sq ft new home including the lot.

  5. CAGIV | Sep 26, 2006 07:29pm | #16

    wild asz numbers here....

    The last three basements between  600-800 SQFT ran between 3200-3800 plus the cost of final fixtures such as wall and ceiling lights,  Can lighting would have been included.

    FWIW when I budget a basement, if the elec. doesn't come and bid it, I estimate $65.00 per "box" be it a switch or receptacle   $125 per can  $150.00 per added circuit into existing panel.  $65 per smoke, and $50 per each phone or cable.  Then I throw a couple of hundered more on for Mr. Murphy

     

    Team Logo

    1. User avater
      PaulBinCT | Sep 26, 2006 07:34pm | #20

      Phew...thanks for chiming in CAG, I was taking a beating...

      PaulB

  6. DoRight | Sep 26, 2006 07:29pm | #17

    A basement?  Bare studs?  If bare studs, I would say you are being screwed.  Just an opinion, in case cloud wishes to have a rampage.  Of course the easy thing to do is get another quote or two.

  7. renosteinke | Sep 27, 2006 04:21am | #60

    I have found the following "rule of thumb" to be helpful in evaluating quotes:

    Go to the store, and price all the parts. Take this figure and triple it. Add the cost of any special equipment that needs renting. This ought to be reasonably close to what you're quoted. If the figure is less than 2x, or more than 4x, the material cost, things need to be looked at more closely.

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

Sign up Log in

Become a member and get full access to FineHomebuilding.com

Video Shorts

Categories

  • Business
  • Code Questions
  • Construction Techniques
  • Energy, Heating & Insulation
  • General Discussion
  • Help/Work Wanted
  • Photo Gallery
  • Reader Classified
  • Tools for Home Building

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
View More Create Post

Up Next

Video Shorts

Featured Story

Simple and Discreet Countertop Power

A new code-compliant, spill-safe outlet from Legrand offers a sleek solution for a kitchen island plug.

Featured Video

Micro-Adjust Deck-Baluster Spacing for an Eye-Deceiving Layout

No math, no measuring—just a simple jig made from an elastic band is all you need to lay out a good-looking deck railing.

Related Stories

  • Fire-Resistant Landscaping and Home Design Details
  • A New Approach to Foundations
  • A Closer Look at Smart Water-Leak Detection Systems
  • Guest Suite With a Garden House

Highlights

Fine Homebuilding All Access
Fine Homebuilding Podcast
Tool Tech
Plus, get an extra 20% off with code GIFT20

"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Fine Homebuilding Magazine

  • Issue 332 - July 2025
    • Custom Built-ins With Job-Site Tools
    • Fight House Fires Through Design
    • Making the Move to Multifamily
  • Issue 331 - June 2025
    • A More Resilient Roof
    • Tool Test: You Need a Drywall Sander
    • Ducted vs. Ductless Heat Pumps
  • Issue 330 - April/May 2025
    • Deck Details for Durability
    • FAQs on HPWHs
    • 10 Tips for a Long-Lasting Paint Job
  • Issue 329 - Feb/Mar 2025
    • Smart Foundation for a Small Addition
    • A Kominka Comes West
    • Making Small Kitchens Work
  • Issue 328 - Dec/Jan 2024
    • How a Pro Replaces Columns
    • Passive House 3.0
    • Tool Test: Compact Line Lasers

Fine Home Building

Newsletter Sign-up

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox.

  • Green Building Advisor

    Building science and energy efficiency advice, plus special offers, in your inbox.

  • Old House Journal

    Repair, renovation, and restoration tips, plus special offers, in your inbox.

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters

Follow

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X

Membership & Magazine

  • Online Archive
  • Start Free Trial
  • Magazine Subscription
  • Magazine Renewal
  • Gift a Subscription
  • Customer Support
  • Privacy Preferences
  • About
  • Contact
  • Advertise
  • Careers
  • Terms of Use
  • Site Map
  • Do not sell or share my information
  • Privacy Policy
  • Accessibility
  • California Privacy Rights

© 2025 Active Interest Media. All rights reserved.

Fine Homebuilding receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.

  • Home Group
  • Antique Trader
  • Arts & Crafts Homes
  • Bank Note Reporter
  • Cabin Life
  • Cuisine at Home
  • Fine Gardening
  • Fine Woodworking
  • Green Building Advisor
  • Garden Gate
  • Horticulture
  • Keep Craft Alive
  • Log Home Living
  • Military Trader/Vehicles
  • Numismatic News
  • Numismaster
  • Old Cars Weekly
  • Old House Journal
  • Period Homes
  • Popular Woodworking
  • Script
  • ShopNotes
  • Sports Collectors Digest
  • Threads
  • Timber Home Living
  • Traditional Building
  • Woodsmith
  • World Coin News
  • Writer's Digest
Active Interest Media logo
X
X
This is a dialog window which overlays the main content of the page. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. Pressing the Escape (ESC) button will close the modal and bring you back to where you were on the page.

Main Menu

  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Video
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Popular Topics

  • Kitchens
  • Business
  • Bedrooms
  • Roofs
  • Architecture and Design
  • Green Building
  • Decks
  • Framing
  • Safety
  • Remodeling
  • Bathrooms
  • Windows
  • Tilework
  • Ceilings
  • HVAC

Magazine

  • Current Issue
  • Past Issues
  • Magazine Index
  • Subscribe
  • Online Archive
  • Author Guidelines

All Access

  • Member Home
  • Start Free Trial
  • Gift Membership

Online Learning

  • Courses
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Podcast

More

  • FHB Ambassadors
  • FHB House
  • Customer Support

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Follow

  • X
  • YouTube
  • instagram
  • facebook
  • pinterest
  • Tiktok

Join All Access

Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.

Start Your Free Trial

Subscribe

FHB Magazine

Start your subscription today and save up to 70%

Subscribe

Enjoy unlimited access to Fine Homebuilding. Join Now

Already a member? Log in

We hope you’ve enjoyed your free articles. To keep reading, become a member today.

Get complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.

Start your FREE trial

Already a member? Log in

Privacy Policy Update

We use cookies, pixels, script and other tracking technologies to analyze and improve our service, to improve and personalize content, and for advertising to you. We also share information about your use of our site with third-party social media, advertising and analytics partners. You can view our Privacy Policy here and our Terms of Use here.

Cookies

Analytics

These cookies help us track site metrics to improve our sites and provide a better user experience.

Advertising/Social Media

These cookies are used to serve advertisements aligned with your interests.

Essential

These cookies are required to provide basic functions like page navigation and access to secure areas of the website.

Delete My Data

Delete all cookies and associated data