Replies

1. 
   jimblodgett | Mar 16, 2005 04:30am | #1

   Hey Doug, those teak doors and drawer fronts, are those t&g panels?  What type joint you guys use for the stiles and rails on those?  I built some like that a few years ago from #2 cherry, really highly figured.  Looked great but seasonal movement caused some problems as the rails expanded widthwise while the stiles stayed the same length.  None of the joints failed, but I have always thought I could have done better. 

   You ever run into that with that type door/drawer front?

   Free speech leads to a free society.

1. 
   DougU | Mar 16, 2005 05:13am | #3

   Jim

   Yes the panels are t&g.

   Styles and rail are just simple stick and cope style doors, just as you would a shaker door. T&G.

   I wonder if your choice of figured wood had anything to do with the movement? Not sure, just guessing. Aren't you in a very humid climate?

   I haven't noticed any drastic movement as yet, and we have been building this style cabinet for this homeowner for three years plus. Matter of fact I was in the house yesterday installing a walnut door that I built and I was working next to the kitchen. Never noticed any problems with any of the cabinets.

   Of course its still fairly dry so that's not to say some movement isnt happening.

   Doug

    

1. 
   jimblodgett | Mar 16, 2005 06:55am | #4

   Well, I'd guess out seasonal humidity swings are less than many parts of North America.  We don't get wide temperature swings - seldom freezes or goes above 80 degrees.

   Probably wasn't careful enough acclimating wood before I started.  I guess you're right about figured wood moving, too, if not more, than at least in a less uniform way.

   Anyways, great looking job.  Does cabinetry hold your attention full time, or do you get a little spring fever sometimes and want to get out there in the wild a little?Free speech leads to a free society.

1. 
   DougU | Mar 16, 2005 01:20pm | #5

   Jim

   want to get out there in the wild a little?

   By that do you mean frame or dig a ditch?

   He!! no, I'm to old for that crap.  :)

   What I like to do more than cabinetry is fine architectural mouldings, detail work, fireplaces, entertainment units.

   We're getting ready to start a house for a big time celeb, the only part we are doing is the case work. I'm already bored with it and we haven't started.

   I want to do the stairs, the fancy doorways and so forth.

   I'm looking to hook up with another company where I can do more of that. I was lucky, back in Iowa the Co. I worked for specialized in that. Got spoiled.

   Doug

2. 
   skasower | Mar 16, 2005 05:31pm | #6

   Doug,

   The cabinets are beautiful. What a project! Please post more photos of this amazing project. It is an inspiration for me for sure.  I have one question about about the "Shaker" cope and stick milling process.  Do you guys use a shaper?  I have been using a router and router table and have not found a "Shaker" router bit set.  If you know of such a set please let me know.  Thanks,

   Steve Kasower

1. 
   DougU | Mar 17, 2005 12:41am | #9

   Steve

   Doors are done using a shaper to do the stick and cope.

   We are very limited with shaper cutters, but not with regard to imagination!

   We just put a 1/4" strait cutter in the shaper and set the fence so as to cut 1/2" deep dado. Then stack cutters with a 1/4" spacer to make our tenon.

   We are making the doors with a 90 degree edge. I think you can get router bits to do this, just look for t&g cutters, seems like all makes have those available. Hell you can do this on a table saw, done it numerous times, works fine.

   If you want the stick and cope with a 15 degree bevel the only router bits that I have seen are at http://www.eagleamerica.com/html/catalog/productGroup.asp/87781

    

   Doug

    

   Edited 3/16/2005 5:45 pm ET by Doug@es

1. 
   skasower | Mar 17, 2005 01:01am | #10

   Thanks Doug,

   I am really interested in the 90 degree profile.  I have a large t&G 1/2" router bit set that I used on my first kitchen cabinet doors.  However, I did not use the "stick and cope" approach.  I'm embarrassed to say that I used my Kreg Jig and plugged the "oval" holes with the same  wood that I used for the doors (cherry).  I am going to have to try the T&G in place of "stick and cope" for the next doors.  Thanks for the guidance.  And again, your cabinets are really an inspiration for me.

   Steve Kasower

2. 
   Snort | Mar 17, 2005 02:05am | #11

   Man, if you gotta work , that's a nice place to do it...Are the doors and end panel on the teak overheads hanging down as a light valance? If it is, that's a pretty neat idea. If it's not, it's mine, and I'm copyrightin' it...LOL...nonetheless, I'm stealing it.Did you make 'em a teak ladder to get the top shelves?Nice work, I am envious of the projects you get to work on. Don't worry, we can fix that later!

3. 
   gdavis62 | Mar 17, 2005 02:50am | #12

    

   Re the "door with overhang at bottom to double as light rail."

   Shown on the attached, a faceframed wall cab has a 2-1/4" bottom rail, yielding a 1.5" cavity for the Kichler xenon-bulbed undercab lights I have used on the last three kitchens I did.  The units measure 1" deep.

   You can see the doors, full overlay, extend down to cover the rail.  Actually, they are sized to hang an additonal 1/8".

   I haven't decided yet whether we'll faceframe the cabs or do them frameless.  It is just as easy to do frameless . . . you raise the floors 1-1/2" and screw in filler blocks across the front.

   I first saw this design, a couple years ago, on cabs at a Home Depot Expo Center.

4. 
   DougU | Mar 17, 2005 05:05am | #13

   Billy

   Like Gene drew it.

   Yea they overhand to hide the light valance. but feel free to steal anything ya like, hell I do!

   Don't need a teak ladder, hell there never going to use the damn things anyhow. Because of the location of the boat house they cant have running water/waste water in the building. Everything is there though in the event that they are ever permitted to hook it up!

   I fixed a door on there guest house last summer, went up there last week to see a detail for the kitchen cabs and the place has never been used.

   This place has at least 5 kitchens on the property and none of them get used.

   The  garage cost about 1.5 million to build. guest quarters overhead, full commercial kitchen down on the main floor, for the caterers to use when they are throwing big parties.

   Both the guest house and the maid chambers have 10' ceilings, walnut cabinetry, fireplaces, balconies..........

   Just like you and I have at our places!

   We are going to start on a place in the next month that we haven't even been told  the location, big secret. I probably wont be able to get any pictures of that place.

   Doug

    

   Edited 3/16/2005 11:46 pm ET by Doug@es

5. 
   johnharkins | Mar 17, 2005 10:51am | #14

   you really do get to participate in some incredible projects!
   your sublime woodwork complimenting all that stone
   is stone a common building material where you are ( Austin right ? ) or just on those money is no object domains we are so fortunate you have been sharing w/ us

6. 
   DougU | Mar 17, 2005 01:14pm | #15

   Yes Austin.

   Stone everywhere, labor is cheap!

   Even track homes have stone on the facade. Nicer homes have it all the way around.

   I'm lucky in that I dont have to work on to many boreing places.

   Doug

2. 
   DougU | Mar 16, 2005 04:56am | #2

   My brother used to collect early(late 1700's early 1800's antiques) and all of a sudden he sold all of it to furnish his house in Arts and Crafts decor.

   I think he's planning on making most of the furniture out of 1/4 sawn white oak.

   I still prefer the the federal period furniture but I must say I admire well done arts and crafts qualities.

   Doug

3. 
   woodguy99 | Mar 16, 2005 09:41pm | #7

   Excellent work Doug!  I love those stone buildings, and the woodwork really finishes it off nicely. 

    

   Mike

1. 
   DougU | Mar 17, 2005 12:33am | #8

   Thanks Mike