Recessed soap holder in tiled shower???
I’m trying to figure out the best way to waterproof a couple of wall cavities in my shower wall to hold soap & shampoo. My shower walls are lined with hardi-backer board over tar paper, and the two cavities are currently just boxes of plywood screwed into studs. I had planned on lining them with backerboard, caulking the seams, and then tiling, but am afraid that, since the backerboard is not impervious, I’d be subject to getting moisture behind the vapor bariers that way. Had also thought of lining the backerboard with PVC- but then I wouldn’t have a good surface to lay the tiles on. If I put the PVC behind the backerboard, I’ll just be penetrating it a bunch of places in attaching the backerboard…
Does anyone have a good procedure for doing this, or know of an off-the-shelf solution that I can just attach to the stud, caulk, and tile?
Replies
Mike,
You might get some responses here at B'Time, but you might also check the forum over at John Bridge, I think the link is http://www.johnbridge.com. It's a great site for questions like yours, there have been several threads on just your subject. One theory is that, unless your niche is getting a lot of direct spray from the shower head you don't need to truely waterproof it. I know, sounds off to me a bit too, but I'm starting a bathroom remodel soon and plan on taking a lot of their advice. Good luck...
Erich
Hello Mike:
You are fine so far. Go ahead and fit in backerboard to those cavities. Nail or screw them as best as you can. If you have to, but this is not the best idea, use construction adhesive or silicone to glue them in place. Thinset and tape all seams.
Next, go to a masonry supplier and get some Laticrete 9235 or one of the clones by ThoroughSeal. I think Lowes might have a similar product, but I don't know, it might be called wall and floor waterproofer or something like that. It is basically all the same stuff, a thick rubber latex paint and some fabric.
Laticrete has an $80 "kit" which contains a gallon or so of the latex liquid and some fabric. If you want to bulletproof your shower, buy the whole 5 gal can and a roll of the fabric and do the whole shower.
Spread the black latex liquid with a brush (or roller on larger surfaces) then quickly embed the fabric. It really, really helps to have the fabric pre-cut and ready to go. I even cut 1-2" strips for corners and seams, or you can overlap the fabric by about 2" or so. Embed the fabric in the black latex and push it down with your brush or roller or your fingers. Then add a second coat of the latex over the fabric. Add a third coat if you desire I have made fountains of this stuff, and it is totally waterproof.
It is really messy, thick black, sticky and will stick to everything. Wear a hat, goggles, gloves, and the worst clothing you own. Put drop cloths on the floor and watch your shoes. Throw the stuff away after you are done. The first time I used the stuff I looked like a poor tryout for a minstral show and tracked the latex all over this woman's carpeting. It does not come up, so watch out.
I do whole showers with this (walls only) and it completely waterproofs the walls and floors. It is great stuff.
Good Luck, Mike.
Boris
"Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934
As a side note, I'll keep it brief.
What is the name of the particular grout sealer I've seen you praise here before.
Application is tumbled marble backsplash behind a granite top, in back of the sink and possibly the cook-top.
Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark, Professionals built the Titanic.
Edited 8/20/2003 12:43:20 AM ET by CAG
CAG:
It is Aquamix Gold 15. A fifteeen year warranty. It is, of course, the most expensive sealer in the planet, at about $80 a gallon.
Regards,
Boris
"Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934
I did this in my own bath remodel very simply by coating the the entire inside of the cavity with Henry's roof tar and then lining it with 30# felt. Over that I screwed in cement backer board. When you set your tile, be certain to provide adequate slope to run off the water. I went alittle on the conservitive side here and sloped it about 1/4" for 5" of run in a 2X6 bay. The shampoo bottles do not tilt excessivly and we haven't had any problems in ten years.
Jim
If the slightest bit of tar touches the edge of a tile watch how fast it changes the color of a tile. I know, because I once set the edge of hardiback into some flashing cement on a non rimmed tub and a tiny bit touched the edges of the lower tiles and darkened them.
I'd stick to thinset for this particular application
Be careful
andy
In his first interview since the stroke, Ram Dass, 66, spoke with great difficulty about how his brush with death has changed his ideas about aging, and how the recent loss of two old friends, Timothy Leary and Allen Ginsberg, has convinced him that now, more than ever, is the time to ``Be Here Now.''
http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
Edited 8/20/2003 9:30:32 AM ET by Andy Clifford(Andybuildz)
Make sure you seal all the grout lines around and above the soap dish.
Hi,
The tile contractor I work with has taken to purchasing a pre made porcelin unit. Quite slick and it pops right it, a little caulk and maybe some grout and your done in 5 minutes. No need to frame out a pocket just leave the room for it with your tile then cut out the backer board
Cost about $100 at the finer tile suppliers, but like I said very cool.
I've seen 2 or three different configurations and colors.
HTH
N
FHB had an article on this AROUND April 1998 - and I believe it said what Boris recommended. I recall the APPROXIMATE date because I photocopied the article for my tile contractor. I had single niches put in each of our two bathrooms (stud bay width) and now wish I had done two instead of just one.
Eric S.