Time to get a new recipricating saw for use on my home renovation. I already own a cordless Makita – never again. I want to add a corded unit and was looking at Milwaukee and the new PC Tiger Saw, the one with the rotating head.
Thought I would get the advice of the pros before I buy.
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Replies
PC will vibrate your hands off. I returned mine after using it for 1 day and bought the Cadillac: Milwaukee 6521-21 Heavy Duty 11 Amp Orbital Action Super Sawzall
Given the amount of work I have coming up with this saw, comfort is a real consideration. I have to cut off an entire roof comprised of 3/4 T&G underlayment, 1/2 cedar shingles, 2 courses of ashphalt, 1/2 OSB, and rubber roof.
this thing is going to be a b###h to remove a section at a time I will want a saw that is as comfortable as possible, relatively speaking.
Thanks for the input.
I intend to buy the best milwaukee they make no matter the price..as soon as the one I'm using dies.
The problem is, I bought it 15 years ago and except for replacing the cord a half dozen times and a bent shoe this puppie is still going tough.
Best tool I got and believe me I give it hell.
When it goes I thought of mounting it on a plaque in the shop. It has more than earned the right to collect dust. It'll give the other tools something to look up to.
Just curious: Do you mean you are cutting off an overhang? Cutting out a section? Ripping off everything down to rafters?
Can't you take it off in layers? Can you cut through everything with a circular saw and carbide blade? Chain saw haha?
I do mean everything! I am ripping the entire thing off, adding 18" to the walls and putting on a new roof structure to match the pitch of the adjoining house. I might use a circular saw, but given the overall depth of stuff up there, I was thinking resip saw.
trying to take it off a layer at a time seems too time consuming, given the mess that is up there. Especially the T&G underlayment and original shakes.
Edited 11/18/2003 4:29:56 PM ET by pino
Edited 11/18/2003 4:30:17 PM ET by pino
i have the pc tiger (older version), it does vibrate a fair bit depending on use, but has been a very reliable tool for several years, toolless blade change is really slickcaulking is not a piece of trim
I think you'll find that sawzalling through all that stuff will clog your blades quickly. It'll be slow work. Everyone finds something different that works for them. But I've done too many rip offs. Unless I were to use dynamite or a match, a layer at a time works best for me.
I'll keep that in mind. I have had two roofing guys tell me they would not toouch the job. The rip off would be too time consuming. One of them suggested I cut the roof off in sections. I suppose I can always try the tear off first and move on to cut off if needed.
Either way, I need (or just want) a new recip saw. Thanks for the info.
Go with big red. The cordless hatchet is nice but not for the roof demo. I just tore a roof structure off of my place in sections. A real bi*ch on the sawzall blades. Went thru 20 some blades. Try using an old stout circular saw, or better yet a worm drive (Skil model 77 I think). Use a thick blade with carbide teeth. Oh and by the way, make sure no one is under you when you throw that stuff down to the ground. I almost killed my favorite HVAC sub last year tossing a 10"x10" section of 3/4 ply out the second story window when he came around the corner. Went right to the ground with a big a** gash in his head. Could have cost me a lot more than the medical and the 5 cases of beer. Still gives me the willies when I think about what could have been the outcome of that. Hard to find good subs when they find out you might try to kill them or something. :<|
CurlyHand Hewn Restorations Inc.
Restoring the past for the future.
Of course you're going to wait until spring to start this, right?
A lot depends on the condition of the stuff you're tearing off and the slope of the roof, also what you have to protect from falling debris and how you're going to get rid of it. Is the OSB is nicely decomposed into crumbly chunks? Are the 3/4" t&g and framing in good shape? If the roof is steep, do you have good strong ceiling joists in the attic? If you can post pictures and a fuller description, you'll get more detailed advice.
-- J.S.
The tear off is a spring project and I'll post pics when I get closer to demo. As I said, this demo is just an excuse to buy a new recip saw. My Makita cordless is handy in certain situations, but overall a piece of junk. And corded is a necessity given the amont of work I have here.
P{ino speaking from way to much experiance the best way to remove existing roof is to cut sections out with old saw blades on circular saw and drive the sections up with sledge hammer from below. I use my 8.25 c. saw to cut thru three roof layers and decking. I have not tried this idea yet but it might work; is to get hydraulic jack under roof sections cut and jack until you get an edge of your section to let go than beat it the rest of the way out.
ANDYSZ2I MAY DISAGREE WITH WHAT YOUR SAYING BUT I WILL DEFEND TO THE DEATH YOUR RIGHT TO SAY IT.
Go with the Milwaukee you wont be disappointed just got mine outta the shop and its ready to go again. it wont die....
Darkworksite4:
Estamos ganando detrás el estado de Calif. Derrotando a un #### a la vez. DESEA VIVO LA REVOLUCIÓN
I have 2 P.C. recp saws one with an allen bolt for blade holder the other is able to articulate in 2 directions and has a nifty blade holder release that you turn sideways to install blade. I used this saw today to cut out an end of a joist overhanging a wall that the plumber had 2 90 elbows going around it. they were rubbing against the joist making a hammering noise every time the hot water drained from upstairs. I could manipulate the blade into the space and cut a vertical cut there is no other saw that could of made this cut. It had plenty of power and very little vibration. i went to a factory rep barbaque at home depot and was talking to the Portar cable guy and he told me the saw was being discontinued and which store had some left so I bought it for a hundred bucks. Porter cable's factory is an hour up the road from me and the reps are super about taking back tools that you have problems with such as four year old saw that the base broke on when cutting a short piece of trim that got wedged between the guarde and base. He wrote a note on back of his business card telling returns that he would credit the saw so I went in a couple days ago and got brand new saw. I always make it a habit to look out for the factory reps at home depot and stop and tell them how much I like their tools and any problems I've had. This has paid off almost everytime and gives me a good feeling about the company.
ANDYSZ2I MAY DISAGREE WITH WHAT YOUR SAYING BUT I WILL DEFEND TO THE DEATH YOUR RIGHT TO SAY IT.
I was looking at the PC that can articulate. Seemed like it might come in handy when working in tight spaces. Renovating this old bungalow there are plenty of tight spaces.
I have had good luck with my PC router and cordess drills, as well as ####PC circular saw.
I suppose if I do go the route of removing the roof with a recip saw, I am gonna end up needing two. One for me, one for my dad. so maybe I'll end up with a
PC and a Milwaukee.
Pino,
How big is the roof? Why not just get a crane on site. Attach it to the roof and cut the roof at the wall top plate / roof connection. Lift it down to the ground and let a couple of laborers go at it for as long as it takes (at some rediculously low wage of course).
Rob Kress
The roof sits over a 21 x 18 room addition, so not too big.
That actually sounds like a great idea. And since the ridiculously underpaid laborer is me, it puts my feet on the ground where I would prefer to be. It gives me the added benefit of moving on to installing the new rafters, ridge, etc as soon as the roof is off.
That said, i suppose it depends on the cost of a crane rental.
Thanks for the idea.
Haven't tried the PC with the rotating head, but, can vouch for their original Tiger Saw - have had one for about 7 years with no complaints. You would also do just fine with the Milwakee Super Sawzall. Either one will work well for years to come.
Miwaukee- the originator and imho still the best. Ditto to what molten said, I've had a TigerSaw. Not near as smooth as the 6521 Milwaukee.
I got the Milwaukee orbital super sawzall. The plusses are ruggedness, long life, power, and low vibration. The minuses are that it's big and awkward, and not designed to get up close to an obstruction parallel to the cut. If you have to work in a joist bay or a closet, you'll probably find the thing getting in its own way. The orbital function only works with the blade in the "right side up" position, whereas the saw is most useful with the blade the other way around. That's the way that lets you get close to the floor if you're cutting thru a sole plate.
There's a Milwaukee insider on this board, and he says that there's a new version of the sawzall coming soon.
-- J.S.
"There's a Milwaukee insider on this board, and he says that there's a new version of the sawzall coming soon."
JOHN,
Hope your're not referring to me on that comment, 'cause that's not quite what I said to Andy C.
MKE Tool is constantly improving their tools, and from time to time, they outsource to the company I work for for prototype componentry. Some never gets much past the prototype stage, and then, some does.
I am very careful not to give away any client confidential info on the forum, nor to anyone with no reason to know for that matter. If you inferred from my post to Andy C. that they (MKE Tool) where planning on releasing a new Sawzall) that was completely conjecture on your behalf.
Jon
For the money, I went with the Porter Cable Tiger Claw, something like 10 or 11 amps, keyless blade change, with case it was around 120.00? For 184 that sawzall better be amazing.
"For 184 that sawzall better be amazing."
scooleen,
You could have saved yourself $95. by purchasing a Chicago Electric for $24.95 (item #code 04095-1YZA) currently from Harbor Freight. Same stroke, a little less amps. That one should last you a least a week on the jobsite if you don't abuse it.
Seriously though, I'm sure that PC will work out just fine for your purposes. And unless you have a need for a tool that will cost you more (in time and lost wages) if it breaks, not to mention fatigue, that was the way to go.
Milwaukee targets there tools at the professional who will use them almost daily, and will own them for a lifetime or two. They back that up with the best customer service in the industry.
As far as reciprocating saws go, the Sawzall sets the standard. Some others may cut faster, at the expense of vibration and shorter life,... and a savings of $64. on the retail price, but for the long haul they are no match.
Nearly every pro who has a choice will grab the HD Supersawzall in a heartbeat, assuming someone hasn't grabbed it first.
Jon
I second your emotion there about Milwaukee, I own their 1/2 3/8 corded drills, and body grip router. I love their tools very much, and wanted to buy the super sawzall, but at nearly 200.00 I couldnt justify it to myself or my wife the purchase of a tool that was used 2-3x monthly at best. The porter cable is a fine tool, I have had it now for a few years and hasnt failed me. If it dies I have told myself I will look at getting a Milwaukee.
first ... sawzaw's should be Milwaukee
second ... they should have a cord
get the big Mil ... 11 amp ... orbital ....and it'll cut thru anything.
Mines gone thru old wood beams and new steel beams ... and everything in between .... shile staying smooth enough to do the occasional finish work plunge cut.
I have no idea who french's talking to that can't figure out how to insert and twist the cord ... duct tape? Gimme a break. Stop lying.
Also .. the dude that said 2 "blew up" because he hit something soild ... U stop lying too! My blade bends first .... maybe that's why the tranny doesn't blow!
Idgits.
JeffBuck Construction Pittsburgh,PA
Artistry in Carpentry
I have no idea who french's talking to that can't figure out how to insert and twist the cord ... duct tape? Gimme a break. Stop lying.
Well frenchy is frenchy...LOL... He has a misrable time with most any tool.
Also .. the dude that said 2 "blew up" because he hit something soild ... U stop lying too!
Heard tell of that happening. Operator was using a stiff back and was hitting the end of the blade for about 6' of cut. That wasn't the tools fault. That's a clueless operator.
Who ever invented work didn't know how to fish....
Probably gonna get blasted here, but.... I think the Milwaukee supersawzall is WAY over rated. They are big and heavy, which I can deal with, but they are soooo slow and way over priced compared to others on the market. I've owned a couple of the older PC tiger saws (before they started getting cute with the handles and such). Only problem or complaint I've ever had was the switched burning out very quickly.
I use a recip daily. When I got sick of the switches burning up on my PC's I tried the new Hitachi when it came out and never looked back. Those suckers are big and heavy, but they are super fast and reasonably priced. I've got one where the motor housing is so cracked that it's duct-taped together, otherwise the shoe would fall out. The things still works perfectly. I hate the thing for being so big and ugly, but I just can't kill it and therefore can't justify buying a new one.
"Sawzalls should be Milwaukee".... what a load of crap. Buy the best tool available regardless of color or brand. Brand loyalty with tools will get you a truck full of mediocre tools and two or three good ones if you're lucky.
I'm with Tim Uhler..... go green on this one.
"I think the Milwaukee supersawzall is WAY over rated.......I've owned a couple of the older PC tiger saws (before they started getting cute with the handles and such). Only problem or complaint I've ever had was the switched burning out very quickly...........When I got sick of the switches burning up on my PC's I tried the new Hitachi........I've got one where the motor housing is so cracked that it's duct-taped together, otherwise the shoe would fall out."
Diesel,
Excuse my editing of your statement, but I only deleted words. Like an old Timex, which didn't always tell time the best, but rarely broke, It's the same with the Milwaukee.
They do what they have to do, to build them as rugged as they can, and keep the price from going though the roof. They do at times sacrifice a bit of performance, for increased ruggedness and smoothness. Something that they feel is important to the person who will use it daily.
Jon
Jon,
I believe we are all expressing our opinions of tools here, correct? I did just that, without trying to "correct" yours.
These are OPINIONS. Are you trying to correct my opinion? I can't believe how defensive people get over their favorite brand of tools.
If you are implying that your Milwaukee would fare any better with my boys than the Hitachi did, you are mistaken. The point I was making was that no matter what seems to happen to the Hitachi, it just keeps working. I believe that is what is called "rugged". And in my opinion the Milwaukee IS overpriced. I can get a saw which performs better, holds up equally, and costs less. Why wouldn't I?
Have you ever tried a Hitachi recip?
If I need to qualify, and apparently I do, I've owned all three of the brands I've offered my opinion of. That is why these are the only three saws I spoke of.
Diesel
EDIT: Don't get me wrong here Jon, I'm not saying the Milwaukee is a bad saw, I'm just saying that I feel there are saws out there that perform as well or better, hold up as well or better, BUT cost less.
Edited 11/24/2003 7:50:09 PM ET by dieselpig
"Are you trying to correct my opinion?"
Diesel,
No, Just as a habit, I cut, paste and color red the message I'm responding to, and often edit out portions separated by "....." of portions not relevant to my response.
I wasn't trying to attack you opinions. Just trying to highlite that to me, your description of your current Hitachi sounded to me like the reciprocating saw version of a Hooptie. ("held together with duct tape... and you love it?")
And yes I've tried many a different recip. saw and admit that some perform better, depending on how better is defined. That's not the point I was making.
Milwaukee could easily make changes to their designs that would make their tools lighter, smaller, faster and cheaper. They chose to focus more than any other brand on smoothness and longevity. Not that they don't perform well, 'cause they do IMO.
No other company offers a lifetime warranty. None, and they says something. Most others are 90 days to 12 months.
"I can't believe how defensive people get over their favorite brand of tools."
Milwaukee is not my favorite brand, (I have none) but I do prototype work for them, and see first hand the direction they take their tools. Constant improvement based on customer feedback and careful analysis of failures caused by customer abuse.
Jon
Fair enough Jon. I appreciate your taking the time to respond. I guess my saw is pretty rough looking but it is still fully funtional. The boys can be awful rough with my stuff. So far the Hitachi has outperformed and outlasted the Milwaukee I had. The Milwaukee was the first recip I ever purchased. I recall it eventually freezing up. Could be a fluke. You are correct about the warranty, however I doubt very much that with the way some of my company tools look (abused) I'd be able to recover much two years down the line.
I am being realistic when I say that some of my tools are abused. Believe me, I wish the guys would treat the tools the way I do. Maybe things would be different if they were the ones buying them. But it is what it is. And in my experience, this attitude towards "the boss's stuff" is rampant throughout the industry. Not to say they blatantly toss stuff around, they're just rougher than I'd like them to be. Never the less, the end result is the same. Most warranties won't cover "abuse" and that is the best way I can describe the condition of some of the tools which see a couple of years of daily use. From my end the best I can do is stay on the guys about it. The old "Hey! That was your raise that just fell of that staging!" doesn't carry much clout, even when it's true! Best I can do is buy the best value in tools I can. For me that means a culmination of longevity, performance, and price. With those three things in mind, the Hitachi has come to be my choice in recips.
Maybe I just haven't given Milwaukee much of a chance lately. Although they are my first choice in corded drills and if I've got to use a sidewinder, that Tilt-Loc has proved to be a rugged and powerful one.
Sorry if I can across overly abrasive,
Brian
Thanks Dieselpig :-). We LOVE this recip saw. Whenever we have to cut through beams or the such, we sing the praises of the Hitachi.
Well I got to chime in here on this one, I owned the Milwaukee sawzall untill someone needed it more than I did, I replaced it with the PC, the tool rep was at the tool store when I went to buy new one, they let me use one for a couple days to try it out. I like it much more than the Milwuakee.
Doug
IMERC
I'm the "Dude" that went though two saws in the matter of 5 months. I don't know were you get off calling me a liar? Both the salesman & a Milwaukee tool rep. have told me the orbital saw is not a good saw. I've got no problem with Milwaukee tools & did not come to this forum to bash them. I have a lot of Milwaukee tools in my truck that have given me many many great years of service. However, when this topic came up I just gave my HONEST experience with my sawzal.
I also stated that Milwaukee is more than willing to stand behind there tools. I see the Milwaukee reps quite a bit as I live near there Milwaukee production plant & factory service center.
I bought the Milwaukee saw because of there long history of being a great tool and was disappointed & shocked when 2 came apart so with little use.
I used a Black & Decker that I bought for $80.00 for eighteen years with one repair. I just waited for it to go so I could buy a Milwaukee. You can see why I was upset,
$80.00/18 years------$184.00/5 months, 2 major repairs
I will say the Milwaukee is one smooth running saw, I just don't fully trust it yet.
PJE
Reread the post.... I said problem operator.
Who ever invented work didn't know how to fish....
IMERC
If my rant was misdirected, please accept my apologies
PJE
okay
Who ever invented work didn't know how to fish....
Well, it's a shame if MKE doesn't have anything new coming. The PC 9740 will eat their lunch. Non-articulated saws are obsolete. Thanks for the word, I'll stop waiting for MKE and buy the PC.
-- J.S.
Man you aren't kidding the 9740 tiger claw by PC with 2 articulating joints make the saw as short as 8.5 " and able to flush cut also it should be able to do rough jig saw cutting when adjusted to right angle. The quick change blade system is very smooth and the saw cuts plenty fast. i got my saw at home depot clearanced for a hundred bucks and liked it so much that my other pc recip has been semi retired to the wood shop.
ANDYSZ2I MAY DISAGREE WITH WHAT YOUR SAYING BUT I WILL DEFEND TO THE DEATH YOUR RIGHT TO SAY IT.
"i got my saw at home depot clearance for a hundred bucks"
Andy,
And just why the heck do you think PC and HD are so quick to want to to "clearance" them for $100 off?
Re-read this ENTIRE post and play detective. If you're really good, you will be able to predict the future.
Jon
I like my Makita JR3000V for its compactness, light weight, ease of control, finesse even. Certainly not a brute of a saw, or a sophisticated full-featured saw, but it meets my needs (light renovations) 90 percent of the time. The saw never runs for hours on end, and I usually work alone.
Re: the comments about "the boys" abusing your company's tools. Yeah, that would piss me off too, for many reasons. Contractor and Author David Gerstel, in "The Builder's Guide to Running a Successful Construction Company", outlines his time-tested approaches to crew issues like hiring, firing, supervising, paying, benefits/insurance, promotions, etc. Gerstel says: "Take care of your people and they will take care of you". Paying attention to these issues reduces crew turnover and errors and wasted time and materials. Consistent reliable productivity is the reward. Must make costing a job - and preserving one's profit - much easier I'd guess.
Gerstel (pg.186) says: "Some companies pay their employees a flat fee -hourly, weekly or monthly-for use of their tools on company jobs. Alternatively, you can cover employee's costs for tool maintenance, repair and replacement. In addition, you can repay the use of employee's tools on your projects with use of company equipment for their side jobs."
What do you guys do about tool abuse? Are there ways around this problem other than hollering and getting pissed off? Should I post this on a separate thread?
Pierre
"Non-articulated saws are obsolete. Thanks for the word, I'll stop waiting for MKE and buy the PC."
Thanks for the word???????
John,
I didn't say anything
Jon
OK, Sgt. Schultz, I understand perfectly. You saidt nuttink, absolute-aly nuttink.... ;-)
I did some lunch hour errands today and bought the PC 750, expect a comparison report shortly....
-- J.S.
The PC 740 has been replaced by the 750. HD had a 740 as the display saw, but only 750's in stock. The only difference I noticed when I got the 750 out of its case is that the new saw has a 3/8" diameter steel bar attaching the foot to the saw instead of stamped sheet metal.
Comparing the PC 750 with my orbital MKE Sawzall, size and weight are pretty much a wash. I did some test cuts swapping the same blade into both. The PC doesn't have orbital, but cuts maybe just slightly faster than the MKE using orbital. Power is close, 11.5 amps vs. 11 amps. The PC produces just slightly more vibration. But they're really close to a wash for both speed and vibration. For this test I set the PC adjustments to match the shape of the MKE. The PC shakes a little more when you twist it into a pretzel shape.
The PC case is a little smaller, and doesn't have enough room for blades. But to put the MKE into its case, you have to mess with that silly detachable power cord.
The foot on the MKE is permanently jammed in the fully retracted position. I'm going to try using the adjustment on the PC and see if it holds up.
The MKE has orbital action and a top speed limiting knob, the PC has neither. But to me these aren't important.
The two machines are very similar except for one overwhelming thing: The PC can bend 180 degrees around the axis of the bull gear and twist the blade and foot 360 degrees around the axis of its rod. The PC can make cuts that are impossible with the MKE. The PC can work close to obstructions parallel to the cut. My problem of cutting 1 1/2" off the end of an existing block to make room for sistering a joist is solved by the PC saw.
So, I put the Milwaukee in its box with one crummy old blade. I'll keep it standing by in case the PC blows up, but if the PC proves to be reliable, the Sawzall will become a gardening tool, used only for pruning small trees.
-- J.S.
"if the PC proves to be reliable,"
John,
And that's the $50,000 question.
I agree that the pivoting action is an EXTREMELY useful feature. But like you said, time will tell how durable it is. Like CarpenterPJE stated, THERE WERE durability issues with virtually all the variable orbital saws when they first came out. MKE Tool was the only mfr that would replace a broken one after 12 months.
"So, I put the Milwaukee in its box with one crummy old blade. I'll keep it standing by in case the PC blows up"
I'd agree that if you have to rely on having a working recip. saw on the jobsite, keep the old Milwaukee close by.
I personally own 5 PC tools, and I'm very happy with 3, but two,.... never again. Of the 5 Milwaukee tools I own, IF they ever break, I'd replace them with MKE tools in a heartbeat.
Jon
For general carpentry work I like ones with orbital action. Cuts much faster with longer blade life.
I'll add my vote for the Milwaukee Super Sawzall. It will cut thru anything with minimal vibration, has plenty of power, and has probably the best keyless blade changing system of any recip saw.
We have the Hitachi and love it. It doesn't feature oribital cutting, but "swing-arm" so that when you have the blade in upside down you still get the orbital-like cutting action.
It is very fast. A little heavy, but does circles around the plumbers Milwaukees and the HVAC guys DeWalts.
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B00004R9LN/qid=1069189708/br=1-1/ref=br_lf_hi_1//104-8260615-8899148?v=glance&s=hi&n=554114
Ive got two milwaukees and they are good saws that seeem to run forever, but I have used the hitachi and it is a better cutting saw especially as far as speed.
Just went thru this..
I love Milwaukee but I hate their detachable cord.. most of the contractors that I spoke to had either duct taped it in place or wired it and it just was ugly!
Second most favorite was the PC tiger and I actually had one in my hands on the way to the check out when the Hilti Guy stopped me
Try mine he said..
OK what the heck!
Cut thru a 4x4 like butter.. no matter how I leaned on it, it cut fast and smooth. took that blade out and put it in the PC sure enough it would bog down if I leaned onit and it took well over twice as long to cut thru.. double checked by switching back the blade thinking maybe it had heated up and thats why it worked so slow..
Nope Butter. Hot knife thru soft butter!
went home with it..
It did take me a little bit to get used to it but in an hour of demolition my repect grew and grew.. Now you couldn't get it away from me for two of anything else..
Lot of going for the big red here, and I'm not trying to put them down in any way, but for demo work, orbital action will be a must.
Fellow that I work with has a straight cutting Milwaukee, and while he is still enjoying the smooth action, I am dusting off and putting My Porter Cable 737 back in the box.
No comparison to cutting speed.
While doing a quick read of all the responses here I see a lot of positive red talk. I bought a Milwaukee Super Saw w Orbital about a year ago, The first one lasted about 20 mins. The end of the blade struck something solid on the out stroke & blew out the entire transmission. Returned/ exchanged for a new saw, no problems. The 2nd saw lasted a few months, same thing, struck something solid blew out the transmission & armature. Sent in for warranty repair, no problem, was without saw for a week. Now I'm very careful with the saw, don't want to over work the poor baby.
I talked to a Milwaukee rep & expressed my concern as to what do I do when a major repair is needed after the warranty is up. He told me its a lifetime warranty & also told me that all the brands are having problems with the orbital feature, that the mechanics of the orbital is the weak link in the system. He told me I should buy a regular super sawzall. I was a little pissed after spending $184.00, now I'm told the super saw I bought, isn't so super. I told the rep I'm buying a new saw as even with the offer of a good warranty, I can't afford to have break downs like this & have the saw in the shop. I can just see it, 40 miles from nowhere, tight deadline & my Milwaukee super crappy bites it!
I'm now looking at a new Porter Cable.
As for the tool-less blade change on the Milwaukee, If you call a pliers to get the jammed up thing lose, that's a new one for me.
I'm done crying now, PJE
I've stub ended the blade like that a few times, every time it just turned the blade into a pretzel. But I don't think I ever did it in orbital mode. I leave it in the straight back and forth position because I always work with the blade "upside down".
-- J.S.
I too have done a roof by cutting out sections. At first it seemed stupid, but it had several advantages.
First, I was able to do most of the work from underneath, and a three story 10/12 roof isn't my favorite place to fall from.
Second, the peices that came off were somewhat unified, and after I discovered the knack, I developed the right cut out size, which made it easy to cut out the section, grab it as it began to fold inward, and walk it to the window over the dumpster.
On the ground clean up was significantly easier.
And, as I did this mostly alone, working section by section made managing "weather windows far easier.
That said, I wasn't cutting out quite as many sections as you are.
Back to topic: If I could do it again, I would get a Red M over my (overheating) PC.
Jake Gulick
[email protected]
CarriageHouse Design
Black Rock, CT
Last week at H D. PC tiger saw was on sale for $79.00 it was marked $119.95 The store was in ND. not sure if company wide or just the local store.
What you need is the cream of the crop the Bosch 1634vsk this is the best reciprocating saw I have ever used. The Bosch cut faster than any other saw I put up against it hands down. The Bosch has won most side by side comparisons. This tool is DEFFINETLY worth a looksee!!
http://www.boschtools.com/Tools+and+Accessories/Tools/prod_detail.htm?item_no=1634VSK
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Manufacturer
Hitachi
Makita
Milwaukee
Porter-Cable
Bosch
Model
CR13VA
JR3030T
6521-21
9737
1634VSK
Tool
Reciprocating Saw
Reciprocating Saw
Reciprocating Saw
Reciprocating Saw
Reciprocating Saw
Estimated Price
$136Compare Prices
$159Compare Prices
$189Compare Prices
$134Compare Prices
$169Compare Prices
Amps
11 Amp
8 Amp
11 Amp
11.5 Amp
10.5 Amp
Weight
8.4 lbs
7.7 lbs
8.9 lbs
9.0 lbs
9.8 lbs
Orbital Action
Yes
No
Yes
Yes
Yes
Speed
0-2800 SPM
0-2600 SPM
0-3200 SPM
0-2600 SPM
0-2700 SPM
Blade Change
Tool Free
Manual
Tool Free
Tool Free
Tool Free
Case
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
Warranty
12 Months
12 Months
Limited Lifetime
12 Months
12 Months
Accessories
Blades
Blades
Blades
Blades
Blades
Features
Soft grip handle, adjustable pivot shoe
Adjustable shoe, soft grip handle
Trigger speed control, Quik-Lok blade clamp, adjustable shoe
Adjustable shoe, quick-change blade clamp
Adjustable shoe, reduced vibration cutting action
Nice comparison chart.
Just one suggestion though, anyplace to put the stroke length?
I've used the Milwaukee for years P-C too. The stroke length can be a Huge difference in the speed of cut.
Standard is 3/4" but I had a chance to try the Milwaukee with 3/4' and 1 1/4" stroke side-by-side once. It was like 2 different saws! The 1"+ stroke makes a big difference!
Jim This above all, to thine own self be true, and it must follow as the night the day, Thou cans't not then be false to any man Hamlet
go to toolseeker.com that is where I got that chart from
Halleluyah (sp)!
Somebody is finally talking sense!
Had to get my Bosch mail order, but it was worth the wait. Rugged as all hell. Had a Milwaukeepos, (cause, hey!, that's supposed to be the best). BS.
Bosch rules. Rod
I had a Bosch- Panther when it first came out. There was a casting under the rubber boot that the foot mounted too & that broke in half. That happened to me two times & they replaced the saws for me no problem, The other problem I had with saws 2 & 3 is the seal around the shaft would blow when you use the saw a lot & heat it up.
Both times that happened, My hand got sprayed with hot grease. My 3rd. saw lasted many years & was very aggressive, finally it froze up & needed $380.00 worth of repairs, I only paid $178.00 for it in 1997, the dealer looked it up for me. Almost the same time my 18yr old Black & Decker gave out to.
That's when I bought a Milwaukee Super Orbital. You can see my other post on that on topic.
Have a great turkey day.
PJE