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Recomendation for a jobsite table saw.

[email protected] | Posted in Tools for Home Building on August 17, 2010 03:02am

I need recomendations for jobsite table saws.  I want a higher end model, with an accurate fence, and a top thick enough to drill and tap for the attachement of feather boards. 

We had an incident recently that would have been prevented by the use of feather boards.  One of the guys was cutting laminate flooring to width, and using the finger tips of his left hand to push the piece up against the fence, while feeding it in with his right hand.  The combination of the slick surfaces,a dn fine dust produced, resulted in his hand slipping off, and the tips of two finger grazing the blade.  Very minor luckily, (the abrasions on his fingers were healled a week later).

I wanted to use feather boards.  But, the aluminum top precluded the use of magnets, and the nonstandard, mitre slot wouldn’t work to attach them into the slot.  So, I want a new saw with the top thick enough, at least 1/4-inch), that we can drill and tap, with 1/4-20 holes.

Any suggestions?

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Replies

  1. calvin | Aug 17, 2010 06:05pm | #1

    I have a BigDog, bad dog, whatever dog......featherboard.

    You slip it into the mitregauge slot, tighten two screws, one which expands the slot in the featherboard-friction clamping it in place.  It has adjustible slots to move it closer or further from the blade.  I do ad a small pc of sandpaper to the outboard end of the thing in the slot-so I don't have to clamp the shit out of it to get it to stay.

    Tapping any top won't do the top any good.

    However, if you have plenty of adjustment both front / back and moving the fb closer to the blade, I guess it would work with one placement fastening.

    I have a fibreflass/plastic topped old Rockwell bench saw in the van at all times.  The top is small enough to clamp whatever hold downs I need.

    My Bosch portable is much more hefty-it's alum. top I use the above for the featherboard.

  2. Shep | Aug 19, 2010 09:04pm | #2

    A friend of mine has the smaller DeWalt table saw. I think its the 745?

    Anyway, its a nice saw. Fairly light, accurate fence, and powerful enough.

    I can't remember what the top is made of. I think its aluminum, but I'm not sure.

    When, or if, the POS Delta jobsite saw I now have dies, I'm planning to replace it with the DeWalt

    1. User avater
      Homewright | Sep 30, 2010 08:45pm | #4

      Dewalt's got two job site saws

      One of them is the smaller model while the larger of the two is the one I have now.  I love the rack and pinion fence.  It's been a versatile and extremely accurate saw for the work I do.  It even survived a moron tile setter who used it to cut 1/2" hardy backer although it scratched the top some.  Believe me. when I got done tongue lashing that young man, he thought he was on his way to see Jesus.  For some reason, DW quit making it for awhile but then picked it back up.  I'd still buy the same saw if I had it to do over again. 

  3. Waters | Aug 25, 2010 09:15pm | #3

    coincidently, I sold my second bosch saw witht he gravity rise stand to another homeowner today and picked up a new one.  Great saw.

    And yes, you don't need to drill the surface of your saw to use featherboards.  I bought one at woodcraft that fits in the miter gauge slot and works fine.

    pat

  4. User avater
    Dreamcatcher | Oct 04, 2010 11:08am | #5

    what for?

     You should shop around for featherboards that fit your miter slot (or make your own) before you go spending the bucks on a new tablesaw. 

    That is unless you are already in the market for a new table saw. In which case, you may want to tell us what you do and intend to use it for. A Bosch 4100 is a nice saw for a builder/remodeler but would be way too big for someone who just installs laminate flooring for a living and too small for a cabinetmaker.

    Don't forget to look for push sticks too. Even with a featherboard to free up your left hand, the right hand could slip. 

    DC

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