I have a makita sliding compound mitre saw to be used for interior finish work on a new home(to be built).
I have seen the article on a home-built table here on Fine Homebuilding but I was wondering if there are other recommendations for purchasing a manufactured table
that is accurate, easily transportable, and not too expensive.
Replies
http://forums.taunton.com/tp-knots/messages?msg=10729.1
Thumb through this.
" To the noble mind / Rich gifts wax poor when givers prove unkind" - Wm Shakespeare, Hamlet, III,i,100
A guy I work with has the delta universal stand and has a 10" Makita SLCM it works good and the large wheels are a definate plus. Its a little heavy though not to much.
I just saw a stand by Ridgid, must be a new product: looked "okay", up off the floor at least - has anyone tried one yet ?
Phill Giles
The Unionville Woodwright
Unionville, Ontario
You could try a search here, but I doubt it would work because it hardly ever does.
Now to my point :) I remember someone here saying they bought one after looking at it and the one by the delta, there opinion was it looked sturdier then the delta version.View ImageGo Jayhawks
Yah, I wasted some time trying the search - useless, came up with nothing..
Phill Giles
The Unionville Woodwright
Unionville, Ontario
there was a thread on this not too long ago at the jlc forums. it should be either in finish carpentry or tools (the only two i read consistently...)
-kit
This might seem stupid depending on how Japanese* you feel about working with chop saws.
I mounted my Delta to a old plywood shelf (a flat board) and then built two outboard supports out of plywood that screwed directly to the shelf. They are flush with the table surface. Finally 2 more satelite blocks that are the same height as the table.
I move it to the room I am working in and set it on the floor. The Satelite blocks are used to support the long boards.
It is simple and requires you to work on your knees* but it is quick, accurate and very indestructable.
*The Japanese thing refers to the short tables.
I used to work for a guy that constantly set up his chopsaw on either the floor or a milk crate at best. Working on any project from ones knees is hard enough.....fine carpentry is beyond reason. I built the first set of saw horses he ever owned from scraps on the jobsite before my first day was through. I added a benchtop the next. When he threatened to charge me for materials, I told him Id deduct the cost from the bill I would prepare for labor...at a rate that FAR exceeded what he was paying at the time. I have never understood why people who bust their #### everyday to earn a buck seem to go out of their way to make it harder on themselves.
P.S. Ya might wanna consider reserving the "Japenese" slights for elsewhere.J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
"DO IT RIGHT, DO IT ONCE"
Yes if you are earning your living from the chop saw, a workplace at 32 to 36 inches up would be handier and faster. My knees pop every time I get down that low but until I can justify that expense vs others I'll kneel.
No slight was made. I refer to the Japanese dining arrangements in some more traditional settings. I even seem to remember early issues of FWW that had a shop based on working at ground level. That was my first introduction to their series of pull saws (Dozuki?...) I may be wrong but I thought it was a floor level event.Jack of all trades and master of none - you got a problem with that?
I use the Saw Helper stand for my big yellow and black SCMS. Sets up quickly and breaks down into four parts: two extention tables, the saw stand and the plywood base that the saw is monuted on. I use the 8' and 6' extentions. I have used this system for over ten years with two different saws, and I can't count the number of set ups, tare downs, and trips it has made in the back of my PU. The only modification I had to make was adding a couple of drop in bolts with wing nuts to the saw platform, because the SCMS is so tail heavey it wants to flip backwards off of the stand.
Saw Helper is made in a benchtop and floor model heights. If I remember correctly it was a little pricey, but after ten years of use it still does a super job.
Dave
I worked with another carpenter last fall who bought one of those Trojan miter tables for his CMS. Had the table extensions and adjustable stop. Looked great at first glance, but I didn't like it anywhere near as well as my 20 year old plywood table. Only take maybe an hour to build and it's plenty portable. Has, maybe, 1/2 sheet of 3/4" plywood. I'll try posting a photo.
Thanks Jim.
I am leaning toward doing the same thing. I am adverse to spending money I don't need to spend.
Don
jim,
didn't i see you were using the dewalt stand in that window trimming article? just a glamourous loaner for the pictures? it seems nice but i think i would prefer the continual support of a real table.
-kit
Edited 2/28/2003 1:36:34 PM ET by VANDERPOOCH
That's right! Geez, I forgot all about that, kit. Only used it for a day, albeit a long one. Let's see...what were my impressions...very stable, I remember being surprised how stable it was with that Hitachi SCMS (now THERE'S a sweet saw) on it. Nothing else I remember except maybe how compact it must be when folded up...I agree, I like the constant support of the extended saw table better than intermintant supports.
Hey, here's something. When I first built my table it had a fence running the entire length. I soon learned that was a nuisance if the material wasn't straight and removed it. Haven't ever missed it.
Hey kit - what were you saying the other day about making sanding blocks from...what, latex? Remember in the thread about coping? I kept meaning to ask you about that. Could you elaborate on that please? Thanks.
Novy 7 - thanks. Real compact in the truck and plenty solid. I think I must have gotten that idea from "Tips & Techniques" or something. Built those years before getting ideas here on Al Gore's internet.
Edited 2/28/2003 4:38:23 PM ET by jim blodgett
jim,
i was saying i had made custom sanding blocks from bondo (auto body filler.)
the profile can be carefully covered with clear packing tape, or well lubed with paste wax. smear on the bondo, and if you can, stick a block of wood in it to help strengthen it. these blocks wouldn't last very long, and they won't survive a drop to the cement floor, but can be just the thing for limited and specialized work.
seems like i saw an article about copying moldings for restoration where the guy used the same process to create a template for custom shaper knives.
if you needed a much more durable sanding block, and had time to wait over night, you could do the same thing with west system or similar epoxy. better do two good coats of wax for that one....
i hope that brief explanation will give you a good mental picture. i'll try to figure out where i saw that molding article.....
happy friday!
-kit
Yeah, that was just a couple years ago in FHB...that guy from Port Townsend...Sebastion Egart I think it is.
Bondo. Hmm. I haven't ever worked with that stuff. I do have plenty of West System epoxy around though, have to give that a try. Thanks again.
I'm with you on the bending, 'snort. Wasn't bad when I was 18. Of course, neither was running around 'till midnight every night. Let's not even start talking about kneeling.
Nice legs Jim !On An Island By The SEA
I've been using an LVL on some Rugged Buddiesâ„¢, not quite tall enough for that new Dewalt, I'm gonna knock together of Jimbo's horses this weekend...yeah, bending over bites... EliphIno!
I'm with you, Dave. The Sawhelper is the best stand I've used. I had the DeWalt stand and the Trojan and I made one out of plywood, too, but the Sawhelper beat them all. For a carpenter who has to do repeated set-ups and tear-downs, you can't find a better stand.
Dave:
Thanks for info.
Don
One more vote for the saw helper. I have had my Makita 1013 on one for a couple years now. Especially nice if you need a newbie to cut you a board - tell them to put their tape away and use the stop - get a perfect length every time
Roughly, how much does the SawHelper cost ? Their web-site doesn't seem to have any prices on it (you clcik on "prices" and you get models). .
Phill Giles
The Unionville Woodwright
Unionville, Ontario
I haven't checked latey, but they use to have an 800 number for ordering and pricing information.
I hate to admit that I ordered mine from a picture framing periodical. It was called something like Phydira system, or something, and I overpaid about $100.00 for it. When I saw the same thing advertised in FHB, I called and raise hell, but to no avail. "Let the buyer beware", is a lesson that will stick with me a while now.
I think the Sawhelper system is around $400.00 now, but not sure. There is one feature that made it more attractive to me when I installed soffit panels, was the ability to adjut the extension tables to level when set up on uneven ground. I later did a crown molding install in an older home, and set up outside in the front yard, in order to keep the mess out of the house. I had to set one set of table legs down one step on the sidewalk to stay out of the flower beds, and give myself room to get in and out. This rig is perfect for that. Either extension table also serves as a coping station for right or left hand copes without a lot of tail flopping around behind you.
Dave
Think I paid like $350 for mine a couple years ago. Got about 9' table left of blade and 5' table right of blade. Think I got a pretty good deal and didn't have to pay any shipping - I live about 15 minutes away from where they make them and was able to deal with sales manager in person.
Great stand, worth the money every time I set it up. Had one similar to Jim's prior. Worked great, just took a little more room in the van, and a bit less convienient - agree with Jim about the full fence and material that isn't straight - deal with it fine when it comes up, but, wasn't an issue with the old set up.