I heard about somehting the other day which was new to me, and wanted to run it up the flagpole here.
I was talking to a contractor about basement waterproofing, and telling him about the foundation wrap I used on my spec house. (Stuff like the Dorken brand)
He said they would go back after the black waterproofing had been sprayed on and simply stick 6 mil plastic onto the black stuff by hand. No fasteners – They’d do it when the foundation coating was still tacky, then backfill as usual.
Doesn’t seem to me like the plastic would help a lot, as it would probably get punctured when gravel was added in the backfill. And it would probably tear if the foundation ever cracked, and not be of much use.
But I was wondering – Would it hurt anything? Would it keep the foundation coating from curing or something? Any detrimental effects these guys haven’t thought about?
Just curious – Seemed kinda “redneck” to me.
You know when you’re sitting on a chair and you lean back so you’re just on two legs, then you lean too far and you almost fall over but at the last second you catch yourself?
I feel like that all the time.
Replies
Hey, sounds good. Maybe I'll start putting a ply of it over my shingles too. And it couldn't hurt to cover the paint on the siding with it too.
Seriously, the theory is OK; there are membrane systems out there but this poly material is just not going to cut it. Ain't worth the labor it takes to put it up. It's just so faux!
Are you kidding!!! When that washer on the porch over flows, that'll be the only thing that stops it!! ;-)
"It's just so faux!"
so what should we call it............. Faux DÖrken ???
Whenever I feel blue, I start breathing again.
Faux DÖrken - the waterproofing choice of dorks everywhere!
Give it a new label and put some sharp marketing people on it. Maybe our patent expert...naw, he's re-tired.2500 and counting...
It's possible to have quality AND quantity!
Excellence is its own reward!
Guys.....back in the 50's,60's and 70's before there was Tuff-n-dry, Delta, etc...we would always tar the foundation and imbed 6 mil poly in the tacky tar. It worked great, rarely if ever punctured, and as far as I recall never had a wet basement or damp walls. It also stretches enough to span any cracks the block would develop as they cured. I'm no hillbilly, and this was common practice.....then the alternatives came in and the rest is history.
Instead of 6 mil poly, use a blue tarp if you really want to "go redneck. 'helps to extend it up the siding as well.
Won't the petroleum based stuff in the foundation sealer just eat thru the poly?
T
Do not try this at home!
I am a trained professional!
Longer-chain polyethylenes are compatible with petroleum hydrocarbons. Consider that plastic gasoline cans are polyethylene, almost always simple high-density PE (HDPE). Occasionally with some nylon mixed in. And rarely, cross-linked PE (XLPE) - which is better but more expensive.
Low-density PE (LDPE), like supermarket plastic bags, would not be good for gasoline, avgas or light solvents. And would be borderline for heavier hydrocarbons. But HDPE (or XLPE) is fine.
David Thomas Overlooking Cook Inlet in Kenai, Alaska
Don't forget to duct tape it to the siding at the top!
works fine.... poly won't degrade if it's buried as ultraviolet is it's biggest enemy..
but why bother?.. if the snap-tie holes are properly snapped and sealed, and two coats of foundation coat are applied.. and a good uderdrain system is installed.. the water will follow the path of least resistance and never pass thru the wall..
if there is no drainage plain.. and no underdrain... no amount of membrane will stop the water from finding the chink in your armor ( or your wall)..besides.. most wet basements have more to worry about from high water tables than from water thru the foundation walls...
the main problem with poly is where to stop it.. at the grade line ? then water can come over the top and follow it to a hole... you can't run it up above the grade line because the sun will degrade it in no time.... better to spend your time and money properly snapping the ties BELOW the concrete surface, sealing the holes , and applying two coats of foundation coating... the poly becomes superfluous
Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore