My co-worker and I are preparing to lay a large redwood deck for our client here in N CA. The issue: when screwing the boards down, do we set the screws flush or recessed. The builder previous to us set his square-drive screws 1/4″-1/2″ deep. I’ve always flushed my screws/nails. Will recessing accomodate the inevitable wood shrinkage, preventing fasteners from rearing their ugly heads later? I am concerned in setting too deep, breaking wood fibers and re-creating what I consider an ugly scene: the sight of our previous builders holes in the deck. Also, I’ve been taught that deep setting creates moisture reservoirs forlater rot. Thanks, Henry
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Moisture resevoirs and gratly reduced capacity of the screw since 1/4 to 1/2" of the wood is wasted. Not so much an issue on a deck, but a good example of why building codes are so conservative.
...that's not a mistake, it's rustic
Why not use self-countersinking stainless screws?
T. Jeffery Clarke
Have you ever tried setting deck boards with subfloor adhesive and 2-1/2" galvi finish nails. I learned this quite some time ago from the "This old house Journal". I think Tom Silvas crew started this method. The adhesive is set below each board, a quarter size glob for a 1x4 and a 4" worm for 5/4x 6 boards. The method is fast and provides a secure anchor without the ugly dimples left by screws or nails. I've used this method at some of Bostons finest homes and upon my return visists years later, the boards still lay nice and flat.
Run a test sometime you will be surprised.
Good luck,
Sullico
If you haven't purchased your screws yet I would consider the "fastap poly2" which can be viewed @ http://www.fastpscrews.com
We have used these screws to fasten Trex and they work great. They pre-drill and self-countersink flush to the wood.They cost more than conventional screws but save you time in labor costs because you don't have to pre-drill and countersink every screw.
They are much harder than stainless, so you won't have the added expense of backing out stripped stainless heads. The duracoat finish will not rust or bleed into wood products.
Set your screws flush no matter what fasteners you use.
Bob
"Rather be a hammer than a nail"
I do not know the name of the vendor. But someone makes a fastner that is biscuit jointer between the boards and then screw through the (plastic) biscuit with a deck screw. This from what I saw worked well because there were "piercings" through the expensive deck boards. The boards in this case were specie from south america. This could also be used inconjunction with an adhesive.
ebi-ty is the biscuit joiner type
They are called EB-Ty's. I am putting then in right now for the first time on a 1600 sq ft radius deck. Decking material is Trex. First time for that too since we only usually use cedar. So far, for a fastener free looking deck they are awesome. Better that the deckmaster type blind fasteners, since we only have approx. 18" of clear space from joists to ground. Deck-clip won't work on synthetic lumber. As far a the original post, we usually set ours just past flush (1/16") The stainless, self tapping/countersinking #1 trim heads are nice, but be forewarned, they strip out as easily as a brass screw if your not careful.
J3513- I hate to burst your bubble but Trex should be face screwed down in a staggered pattern and double screwed at the ends. This is how the Trex factory approves installation of their product. They also require a 1/4" gap between and end gap for expansion and contraction.
You will have a hard time obtaining the proper spacing with Eb-ty's plus their ability to hold a flexable product like trex would be questionable.
Authorized "Trexpert"
Bob
"Rather be a hammer than a nail"
Pro-dek,
EB-TY makes a fastener that has 1/4" spacing. It is not the same EB-TY fastener that you used in the Ipe deck that you have posted in the Photo Gallery. Maybe give 1-800-GET-EBTY or SWAN SECURE a call as to the latest in deck fasteners.
Hate to burst YOUR bubble, but EB-ty's are an approved fastening system, as per both the sales and the engineering folks at TREX. I've been on the phone and on line with many of the folks over on the east coast to rectify this. (And have also attended the TREX 'clinic', for whatever that is worth, if you buy into their program)
The spacing is 1/16" gap per 20 degree change from installation to highest temp expected. Thus installation at 70 outside would only require a 1/16 around here or an installation of 40 degrees, which is what it was yesterday, required us to gap them almost 1/4". This only works on up to 16' boards, as you already know. the 20'ers nedd an additional 1/16 no matter what.
We are in the process of attempting to bend the TREX, through a the use of heat, to bring the material within 20 degrees of the extruded temp.THe engineers at TREx are interested and want to send out folks to Pic' it for photos. This deck is hand radiused over 210', over the water. (salt), and with an incorporated hot tub. Believe me, I have researched about every material and fastening system out there for the last year to get to this point. ( By the way, 6 more days of this building stuff and it'll be a week!)
So where is your picture? I want to see this 210' hand radiused Trex deck? What does that mean exactly?
Did you bend the Trex to give it a curved edge over the water ?
Did you route the edge to give it the same round edge on the ends as the sides?
Did you build a 210' circle?
As for EbTys and Trex- Right or wrong-Why would you want to put yourself through the misery of trying to use those things on the radiused edge of Trex when it such a pain to use them on the square edge of IPE?
I'll check with my regional sales rep on the Ebty system. It would not make sense to use Ebtys if the required spacing between trex is 1/4" and the ebty would not alow for that spacing because it has to fit tight in order for the biscuits to hold the product in place.If it fits tight there is no room for expansion.
Bob
"Rather be a hammer than a nail"
Edited 4/15/2002 1:45:24 AM ET by Pro-Dek
I'm not here to get in a pissing match with you...Just that you must know that there are many more ways to build a deck than just your own way.
As far as the deck goes...I would love to post pictures when it is completed. Maybe you can catch a glimpse of it in the next TREX advertisement.
I've got more things to do than to argue who is right or wrong on which type of fastening system to use for ANY given building material. I'm sure that you build great structures and decks, and can assume that you can appreciate other's work as well. Didn't mean to strike a chord woth you, but lose the 'tude.
Maybe we can meet for a real beer somewhere (Seattle is yer home?)..I'm pretty near there, and bench race some more.
No "tude" dude just askin questions- and you didn't answer any of them.
I'll have an Alaskan Amber with you anytime.
then we can get in a pissing contest..........
Bob
"Rather be a hammer than a nail"
Edited 4/15/2002 1:46:57 AM ET by Pro-Dek
Use Stainless steel fasteners, whatever fastening method
you use. Well worth the extra money and effort.