hello all.
i am currently pricing out materials for a non-PT deck. while i’ve installed many different kinds of decking, i’ve never framed with anything other than PT. the HO wants to go with redwood for all of the framing lumber (is adament about there being no PT) as well as the decking.
my questions are; could cedar be used for the posts as opposed to redwood? what can be expected of each in terms of rot resistance, and strength, comparitively speaking? would i frame the same way with redwood, i would with PT (16″ oc)? what is the best lattis to use (this is an exposed deck). what are the differences in sheer strength (will i need to order larger dimensions than i would for the typical PT deck with the same span?
this deck is being hung because it steps down to grade on one side, and there is very little heigth between the deck and grade. the square footage only amounts to about 400.
any help i could get will be greatly appreciated? thanks
Replies
Redwood is wonderful material to work with. Takes nails so well, you'll think you've died and risen to some carpenter's nirvanna. Cuts so nicely, like a turkey breast with a sharp knife.
Here's the site you want: http://www.calredwood.org/about/gradeuse.htm
Re rot resistance, redwood is generally on par with cedar. Which is better depends on the quality of the particular piece of wood more than the species.
Be aware that all pieces should be finished on four sides before installation.
Hello DanHI wondered what finish you are recommending for all four sides?
Do you also finish other woods for decks before you build? Just curious
Rob Z, D&R Builders, Inc.
I don't build decks, just maintain my own. But the thing with redwood is that it goes dark real quickly, so you want to put a finish on it ASAP. And before building is best. Finishing all sides probably isn't a total requirement, but you gotta finish three anyway, and doing the forth gives you the freedom to flip the board if it looks/fits better that way. Plus it improves the life of the wood a tad.
So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin
DanHI see, I was thinking that you were talking about the framing lumber too. You are right, it does color fast. You have to really watch getting concrete dust on the wood too. Also, getting the saw dust on any concrete. Sawdust + water = black stains on concrete.
I usually build the deck first, then finish it. Just gotta be careful.Rob Z, D&R Builders, Inc.
I would suggest sealing the framing somehow. It will last a lot longer that way.
So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin
I've never framed with redwood, but I have framed with red cedar and they have similar characteristics.
Cedar posts are fine. Take care to design your joints so they won't hold water. A single 6x8 beam over the top of a 6x6 post is better than two 2x12's bolted to the side of a 6x6, where water and debris will sit in the joint.
Be careful on how your deckboards lay out--don't have any long joints between deck boards fall on top of a joist, where water and debris can sit.
Use all stainless steel fasteners and joist hangers to avoid ugly black stains.
Make your own lattice. I like vertical 1x4's spaced 1/2" or so apart. 3/8" x 1 1/2" grid lattice is nice too.
Shear strength doesn't come into play much on a deck, but if you mean bending strength, size things up a dimension from what you would use for PT. If you would use 2x8 PT, use 2x10 cedar. Or check out this website http://www.wrcla.org/cedarspecs/designershandbook/engineeringdata.asp. They have some good information on cedar.
"This is a process, not an event."--Sphere
And I'm a legitimate certifiable Tool Whore.--Dieselpig
Here's a new way for an old trick, old trick was to use 15# felt paper cut into 2 1/2" strips and set them over each joist....new version use strips of Grace Ice and Water shield instead.....will help seal around fasteners when attaching decking. Ditto on the SS fasteners.
Geoff
Lucky you to have a client willing to shell out the money for nice materials....but you might not have much luck finding the structural pieces you want....I always figured treated framing & nice (redwood, cedar,ipe) decking was a good compromise.
Neither cedar or redwood will do well if they stay wet....posts in the ground, lots of trees overhead, and poor attention to drainage are no-nos. I recently saw a cedar deck that was in perfect condition, except for the posts completely rotted in the ground and at the band joist-to-post joints (where water got trapped)
Hello,
I am from California, and have worked with redwood a lot. The biggest thing I can tell you is that if you use Con Common grade, there is a lot of white sap wood. The white part seems to be about as durable as doug fir as far as rot goes. Also, it does not look that great, all the different colors. Go with all heart redwood. It costs more, but looks great. Other than that, I agree with the other posts. Except maybe the finish four sides part.. Finish with what?
Good luck and enjoy the redwood.
Rob Z, D&R Builders Inc.
Anywhere where it rains you gotta put a stain/sealer on redwood or it'll look like carp and erode fairly rapidly. Sikkens is the best stuff available, though I've heard that, I'm thinking, Behr makes some stuff that's been recommended.
So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin