Replies

1. 
   jrnbj | Jul 30, 2005 05:29am | #1

   You can have it "disked"....buffed with a big scotch brite pad, basically, and then recoat...helps if you know what the original finish is...

   Word of warning, though.... the new quick dry finishes don't dissolve the layer below, so they don't meld into one coat, and they are brittle...if you go with a buff & recoat, let it dry for at least several days before doing ANYTHING on it.... 

1. 
   Perk | Jul 30, 2005 04:49pm | #2

   Thanks for the reply... I  believe the existing finish is a polyurethane.  What kind of new finish would you suggest using?  I need something that will be a little forgiving to put down, even if that means it takes longer.

    

1. 
   jrnbj | Jul 31, 2005 12:33am | #4

   Poly is best over poly....it's not a hard finish to (it's hard or next to impossible to "touch up"), just let it cure well....I wouldn't clean the floor with TSP if I was disking it before recoating, though...
   Good luck

2. 
   Wango1 | Jul 30, 2005 04:55pm | #3

   Yes you can just get 'recoated' without having to 'resand'. The first step though is to clean the floor with something like TSP.

   Poly is a common finish, and you can stay with the sheen you have or go more matte, but you can't go more glossy.

   Varathane has a video you can watch, usually available at HD in paint, and some stores rent the buffer. Try the Flooring 1-2-3 book for more...

    

    

    

    

    

    

    

    

    

    

    

    

    

    

    

    

    

    

3. 
   dthodal | Jul 31, 2005 03:32am | #5

   I would recommend using a 16" buffer machine like the Clarke, with 80 grit screen to start. Use a 5" hand random orbit for the edges and corners. You do not need to remove all the finish unless you find the new finish is incompatible with the existing.
   Find a closet or otherwise out of the way spot and sand with the random orbit. Use the new finish and see what happens. If everything is okay, then you can proceed with the entire floor. If not sand and try again.
   Urethanes are quite poular and durable. I am still using DURASEAL which is an oil-modified polyurethane. First coat gloss then two of satin to finish, a light buffing between coats.
   Depending on how much finish has been worn off (6 years and you have bare wood?) you may get by with two coats, but I would stick with three. The first coat of gloss will give a harder finish than the satin, whereas the satin reduces the sheen. The DURASEAL will bond together for the three coats if done properly. My observations have shown it is one of the best of the urethanes.

   walk good
4. 
   Dave45 | Jul 31, 2005 05:32pm | #6

   Are you sure you have "real" hardwood and not an engineered hardwood floor?  If you're in a typical tract house, I would bet on an engineered flooring product - and it probably isn't one of the "top-of-the-line" floors.

   Some of the engineered flooring has a very thin veneer for the top layer and it won't stand up to much refinishing - if any.  Some of it isn't wood at all - it's a plastic material and the "wood grain" is actually a photograph.  To add to the fun, many of the engineered floor finishes are pretty exotic (not your fathers polyurethane - lol).

   Before you start messing with it, see if you can find a raw edge (take up a heat register if you can) and take a close look at it.  If it's solid hardwood, you're home free - do whatever you need to do.  If it has layers (like plywood), check the thickness of the top layer.  If it's microscopically thin (1/32" or less), proceed with caution.

1. 
   Perk | Aug 01, 2005 04:54am | #7

   Thanks again to all who replied... The floor we have is real hardwood.  I'm almost ready to bite the bullet here and start this but I'm leary about using a disk sander.  I've used one 20 years ago to polish floors but haven't used one since.  I'm afraid that I'll gouge the floor which will then require a full blown refinish. 

   I've heard that someone used a drywall sander (I'm not sure if it was a powered one or not).  I was thinking that a drywall sander might be good to use because I don't think I could get in a bad situation with one.  It might take longer, but that is not a big concern for me.

   Am I being too cautious or thinking dumb thoughts here?

   Thanks...

1. 
   Dave45 | Aug 01, 2005 04:56pm | #8

   They have floor sanders now that work like random orbit sanders instead of those old drum sanders.  They have four (I think) sanding heads and are much more forgiving.  I understand that the sanding takes a little longer, but there's little chance of gouging the floor.  Check out a rental center and see what they have.

   If your floor isn't gouged anywhere (i.e. the marks are just on the surface), and you still like the color, you could try "screening" instead of sanding.  Screening uses a floor polisher with abrasive pads (Scotchbright) to buff out surface blemishes.  Then you clean the floor and put down a new finish like polyurethane.

   Whether you sand, or screen, make sure the floor is immaculately clean when you put down the finish.  Even small amounts of dust will show up on your new finish.