FHB Logo Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter X Instagram Tiktok YouTube Plus Icon Close Icon Navigation Search Icon Navigation Search Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon Skip to content
Subscribe
Log In
  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Restoration
  • Videos
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House
  • Podcast
Log In

Discussion Forum

Discussion Forum

refinishing softwood floor

| Posted in General Discussion on January 20, 1999 02:28am

*
I am renovating a 135 year old home and have found beautiful original wood flooring in several of the rooms. Unfortunately it is softwood. I am looking for information on how to properly refinish the flooring. I have heard of sanding the floor saving the dust and mixing it with a compound and spreading it over the floor to fill the cracks. Also I need information about what kind of sealant to put on it to protect the floor. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Reply
  • X
  • facebook
  • linkedin
  • pinterest
  • email
  • add to favorites Log in or Sign up to save your favorite articles

Replies

  1. Henry_Hyde | Dec 31, 1998 03:48am | #1

    *
    Just did a 100 year old home. It had Douglas Fir floors. Sand, and save the sawdust if you care to. I would put a very light stain on it, as softwoods tend to absorbe more stain. I would use 3 coats of oil based polyurethane. Most floor finishing subs will only charge you about $2.50 per foot to refinish, and if you can move the furniture, that makes more sense to me, but hey, its your money.

    Oil vs. Water based poly will probably be a hot topic here. I think the oil base is stronger and is more predictable to install. But I'm not a tree hugger.

    Good Luck!!

  2. Guest_ | Dec 31, 1998 09:09am | #2

    *
    David, I second Henry's post re: Oil Based Finishes. Polyurethane, Satin/Oil; Watco Danish Oil Finish; or even Linseed Oil carefully used (possible fire hazard-read the can.)
    Do you need to fill the cracks? Are you looking for a new house, or a Century-old well maintained
    effect? Consider sanding without looking to flatten the daylites out of everything, keeping some dents and dings. Test a spot with some oil based product, often a 150 year old board will varnish up beautifully without staining first.
    Have at it.

    1. Guest_ | Dec 31, 1998 09:32am | #3

      *I finished a new pine floor with polyurethane and after six years it looks horrible. Dings, dents and scratches do not create a nice patina. They darken, unlike the unaffected areas. It always looks dirty. Next time I'll use shellac and paste wax as recommended by others on this forum.

  3. David_Bakker | Dec 31, 1998 07:07pm | #4

    *
    George, We would like to try and keep some of the old character to the wood so I agree about not sanding the floor to flat. However as you no doubt aware there are some cracks and nail holes from the sub floor that was placed over it years ago. Thats the part about saving the sawdust and mixing it with a glue or something and then spreading it over the floor and lightly sand to fill in some of the cracks and holes. Have you heard of this proceedure and if so any suggestions of what to use for this process. Thanks David.

    1. Mike_H. | Jan 06, 1999 10:52am | #5

      *I have fir flooring in our second level and with only some sanding with a RO sander to 220 grit and two coats of alkyd poly, they look wonderful. Be aware that although fir is not white oak, it isn't as soft as something one would buy today, either. The luster and depth the alkyd stuff gives to the wood is unbelievable. No stain required, in my opinion.

      1. damfconstruction | Jan 09, 1999 12:25pm | #6

        *I have a T&G 1 3/4" Old growth fir floor made of old decking. therefore a lot of varriance in the gaps -- up to a 1/4" in some spots. I've started to sand the floor and it looks great but I'm looking for recommendations on how to fill these gaps....

  4. Guest_ | Jan 10, 1999 03:21am | #7

    *
    Gents: There have been a few threads on these new pages regarding floor finishes. Softwood needs a oilbased product. Real soft softwood, new growth pine, needs a oil or stain, and probably not varnish. As Mr. Giuliani noted, new/softwood is just that, too soft. Most of you however are dealing with older oldgrowth softwood, which has dried, dinged and dented already. A waterborne finish dries too hard, and will chip off when new dents are introducted. As to filling gaps, this may be the wrong time of year to do so, with low temps and humidity. See what's there in July/August first, otherwise you'll create more problems for yourself.

    1. Guest_ | Jan 11, 1999 05:40am | #8

      *Oil or Stain? George, like a tung oil with hardeners (Minwax Tung Oil, Deft. etc.)? Interesting, I wouldn't think it would put up with much foot traffic. It sure would be easier to apply.Thanks for the post.

      1. Guest_ | Jan 11, 1999 06:32am | #9

        *George - do you include shellac in the "oil" group? Its quite flexible I've found. (I've read that dewaxed shellac is not so flexible.)

  5. Steve_Jackson | Jan 11, 1999 06:55am | #10

    *
    Right on George. We do lots of old work and reproduction with newer (softer) material and we have had good luck with Deftoil. Won't hold up like poly but easy to repair and keep up. Murphys Oil Soap and an occasional wax do the trick. We also use it on furniture and if you go 5 coats or better you approach poly wearibility. The sheen is very mellow, impossible to duplicate with a hard finish. Good luck ( careful with the rags )

  6. Guest_ | Jan 11, 1999 10:43am | #11

    *
    Exactly guys. Oil based or a wax-shellac, or plain wax. Oils alone, not as a varnish, need multiple (3+) coats, can be touched up, and will accept wax. Just as Steve Jackson noted. I haven't shellaced any floors, yet Bill Connor makes a very good point. Waterstaining is my only concern Bill, and not everyone has the talent when it comes to an alcohol float or french polish shellac touch-up.

  7. Richard_Carnahan | Jan 17, 1999 01:51am | #12

    *
    Okay, so the question has been asked, but I don't see any answers. What would anyone recommend to fill in cracks in a 100 yr+ old softwood floor.
    Mine's hemlock, has aged to a lovely golden oak color, but has shrunk back along the edges to about 1/4" gaps, fine if you are in a barn, as this building once was, but for a converted office, there's too much cleaning involved with the wide gaps.
    I was considering an epoxy/wood flour slurry, syrupy thick, poured in like boat-deck seal, but am concerned about the lack of elasticity of bulk epoxy pours, either the wood re-shrinking after a summer pour, or swell-binding when moisture increases after winter has passed.

    Whaddya think?

    1. MIKE_D. | Jan 19, 1999 01:21am | #13

      *o.k. YOU GUYS, iVE BEEN TRYING TO FIGURE OUT HOW TO FILL THOSE CRACKS FOR THREE YEARS,HAVEN'T COME UP WITH ANYTHING ACCEPTABLE YET, I'M DEALING WITH 1200 SQ. FT. OLD GROWTH D.F. 1-3/4 X 6 T&G, 3/8" GAPS, SOFT FLOOR. hELP, THANX

  8. Guest_ | Jan 19, 1999 09:14am | #14

    *
    Richard and Mike, as I understand it, you have uniform gaps between all boards averaging 1/4 to 3/8 inch. Forget rigid fillers. Annual shrink/swell will either crack-out the filler or compress the wood cells resulting in more gappage.
    We've solved this by lifting and re-setting the original floor, piecing in a new board from either
    an obscure area of the house or from a salvage lumber yard. My only other idea, is to use a softer linseed type putty, much like Richard's boat-deck analogy... untried, but mused over.

  9. MIKE_D. | Jan 20, 1999 02:28am | #15

    *
    THANKS FOR THE RESPONSE GEORGE, BECAUSE OF THE UNEVEN WIDTH OF THIS DECKING,(SALVAGED FROM A DOCK WAREHOUSE ROOF) THE GAPS ARE RANDOM WIDTH. THE SLURRY TYPE FILLER IS WHAT I KEEP GOING BACK TO, HAVEN'T MIXED UP ANYTHING YET. THE FLOOR SANDING DUST,WATERED DOWNWITH SOME SORT OF OIL, GLUE?? STILL HOPING FOR AN EXPERIANCED, SOLUTION.. I'M TIRED OF DOING THINGS OVER.. ALL SUGGESTIONS ARE WELCOME, EVEN EXPERIMENTAL, THANKS AGAIN.

  10. David_Bakker | Jan 20, 1999 02:28am | #16

    *
    I am renovating a 135 year old home and have found beautiful original wood flooring in several of the rooms. Unfortunately it is softwood. I am looking for information on how to properly refinish the flooring. I have heard of sanding the floor saving the dust and mixing it with a compound and spreading it over the floor to fill the cracks. Also I need information about what kind of sealant to put on it to protect the floor. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

Sign up Log in

Become a member and get full access to FineHomebuilding.com

Video Shorts

Categories

  • Business
  • Code Questions
  • Construction Techniques
  • Energy, Heating & Insulation
  • General Discussion
  • Help/Work Wanted
  • Photo Gallery
  • Reader Classified
  • Tools for Home Building

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
View More Create Post

Up Next

Video Shorts

Featured Story

Fast, Accurate Wall Framing

A rear addition provides a small-scale example of how to frame efficiently.

Featured Video

A Modern California Home Wrapped in Rockwool Insulation for Energy Efficiency and Fire Resistance

The designer and builder of the 2018 Fine Homebuilding House detail why they chose mineral-wool batts and high-density boards for all of their insulation needs.

Related Stories

  • Fine Homebuilding's Author Guidelines
  • Podcast Episode 693: Old-House Hazards, Building Larsen Trusses, AI in Construction
  • FHB Podcast Segment: Finding Hazardous Materials in a Fixer-Upper
  • A Classic Paint Sprayer Gets a Thoughtful Refresh

Highlights

Fine Homebuilding All Access
Fine Homebuilding Podcast
Tool Tech
Plus, get an extra 20% off with code GIFT20

"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Fine Homebuilding Magazine

  • Issue 332 - July 2025
    • Custom Built-ins With Job-Site Tools
    • Fight House Fires Through Design
    • Making the Move to Multifamily
  • Issue 331 - June 2025
    • A More Resilient Roof
    • Tool Test: You Need a Drywall Sander
    • Ducted vs. Ductless Heat Pumps
  • Issue 330 - April/May 2025
    • Deck Details for Durability
    • FAQs on HPWHs
    • 10 Tips for a Long-Lasting Paint Job
  • Issue 329 - Feb/Mar 2025
    • Smart Foundation for a Small Addition
    • A Kominka Comes West
    • Making Small Kitchens Work
  • Issue 328 - Dec/Jan 2025
    • How a Pro Replaces Columns
    • Passive House 3.0
    • Tool Test: Compact Line Lasers

Fine Home Building

Newsletter Sign-up

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox.

  • Green Building Advisor

    Building science and energy efficiency advice, plus special offers, in your inbox.

  • Old House Journal

    Repair, renovation, and restoration tips, plus special offers, in your inbox.

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters

Follow

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X

Membership & Magazine

  • Online Archive
  • Start Free Trial
  • Magazine Subscription
  • Magazine Renewal
  • Gift a Subscription
  • Customer Support
  • Privacy Preferences
  • About
  • Contact
  • Advertise
  • Careers
  • Terms of Use
  • Site Map
  • Do not sell or share my information
  • Privacy Policy
  • Accessibility
  • California Privacy Rights

© 2025 Active Interest Media. All rights reserved.

Fine Homebuilding receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.

  • Home Group
  • Antique Trader
  • Arts & Crafts Homes
  • Bank Note Reporter
  • Cabin Life
  • Cuisine at Home
  • Fine Gardening
  • Fine Woodworking
  • Green Building Advisor
  • Garden Gate
  • Horticulture
  • Keep Craft Alive
  • Log Home Living
  • Military Trader/Vehicles
  • Numismatic News
  • Numismaster
  • Old Cars Weekly
  • Old House Journal
  • Period Homes
  • Popular Woodworking
  • Script
  • ShopNotes
  • Sports Collectors Digest
  • Threads
  • Timber Home Living
  • Traditional Building
  • Woodsmith
  • World Coin News
  • Writer's Digest
Active Interest Media logo
X
X
This is a dialog window which overlays the main content of the page. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. Pressing the Escape (ESC) button will close the modal and bring you back to where you were on the page.

Main Menu

  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Video
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Popular Topics

  • Kitchens
  • Business
  • Bedrooms
  • Roofs
  • Architecture and Design
  • Green Building
  • Decks
  • Framing
  • Safety
  • Remodeling
  • Bathrooms
  • Windows
  • Tilework
  • Ceilings
  • HVAC

Magazine

  • Current Issue
  • Past Issues
  • Magazine Index
  • Subscribe
  • Online Archive
  • Author Guidelines

All Access

  • Member Home
  • Start Free Trial
  • Gift Membership

Online Learning

  • Courses
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Podcast

More

  • FHB Ambassadors
  • FHB House
  • Customer Support

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Follow

  • X
  • YouTube
  • instagram
  • facebook
  • pinterest
  • Tiktok

Join All Access

Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.

Start Your Free Trial

Subscribe

FHB Magazine

Start your subscription today and save up to 70%

Subscribe

Enjoy unlimited access to Fine Homebuilding. Join Now

Already a member? Log in

We hope you’ve enjoyed your free articles. To keep reading, become a member today.

Get complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.

Start your FREE trial

Already a member? Log in

Privacy Policy Update

We use cookies, pixels, script and other tracking technologies to analyze and improve our service, to improve and personalize content, and for advertising to you. We also share information about your use of our site with third-party social media, advertising and analytics partners. You can view our Privacy Policy here and our Terms of Use here.

Cookies

Analytics

These cookies help us track site metrics to improve our sites and provide a better user experience.

Advertising/Social Media

These cookies are used to serve advertisements aligned with your interests.

Essential

These cookies are required to provide basic functions like page navigation and access to secure areas of the website.

Delete My Data

Delete all cookies and associated data