We are having custom kitchen cabinets built. The builder just put in the cabinet that surrounds the refrigerator, which is 32 inches wide. The opening of the face frame that surrounds the refrigerator has been built 36 inches wide, leaving a 2 inch gap surrounding the refrigerator. The back wall is easily visible. I think it looks terrible, and expected the refrigerator to be framed in with a minimal gap surrounding it (these are being built completely custom). Would anyone build or expect it to be built this way??
Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks!
Replies
36" is kind of a standard refrigerator opening although it's trending larger with some of the higher end Sub-Zero type units. If this is a custom job, didn't you help develop the layout and approve a final set of plans?
Jim
In most custom kitchen layouts, fillers are a no-no and usually dictate poor planning/ layout, but in the case of your refrigerator opening it could be a blessing. I can't tell you how many customers have paid dearly for me to alter these openings when that refrigerator they bought during the original remodel didn't last forever. I agreethat the 2" gap must look horrible and shouldn't be left as is. Use a combination of prefinished flat stock to close the gap. Edge screw them with no glue and leave a decent amount of space around the fridge for proper ventilation. You'll be happy you did should you ever buy a new fridge that might require a larger opening.
Good luck, Joe
the refrigerator has to displace heat in order to stay cool. fill in all the gap and you will start having appliance problems. its need the gap or maybe more to operate correctly.
leave a decent amount of space around the fridge for proper ventilation.
Only built-in fridges such as Sub-Zero, or all the other equivalents should ever be completely closed in with-in a cabinet; and in fact they should be to hold them in place. These units are 24" in depth, so they fit in the cabinet. Free standing fridges are 30" or more deep, and should never be enclosed tightly, since they need that room around them for proper operation and heat ventilation.
If you have a free standing unit, your installation sounds correct. If it is a built-in unit, somebody messed up. Did the cabinet designer know which fridge was to be installed? Did the installer know? Had the unit been chosen yet? Was the unit on site during cabinet installation?
How is the refigerator going to breathe....
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming....
WOW!!! What a Ride!
'How is the refigerator going to breathe...."
Very Simple, a refigerator does not breathe, period.
"Main Entry: breathe"
"1 a : to draw air into and expel it from the lungs : RESPIRE; broadly : to take in oxygen and give out carbon dioxide through natural processes b : to inhale and exhale freely"
Now it does need cooling air. But many refigerators all of the cooling air is doing from the front kick space area. I know that is typical for the side-by-sides. Don't know about other layouts.
But might also depend on some small amount of cooling off the case. I have just been shoping and see side clearances speced from 1/8" to 1/2" and top clearances from 1/2" to 2".
But more importance is being able to get the refigerator in and out. With 1/8" it would be a real pain to try to do. That is unless you modified them and took of the rollers and treated it as a builtin.
Also if it past the edge by any amount you have door opening clearence problems.
Whew! Gasp!
Unless the refer is intended to be built in it needs to be ventliated so it can "breathe"
Without air flow yur libable to run higher head pressures 'cause of temp increases 'cause of the lack of air flow or it couldn't breathe which hurries up it's demise. Not getting rid of heat as well as it could cuts down on it's efficiency. To get cold you remove heat as I understand it.
I was thumbing thru the owners manual for a new refer less than two or three weeks ago and it wanted at least 1to 1-1/2" minimum side, top and back clearence so that it can breathe. (ventilate as you will have it)
I know reading owners manuals isn't manly but it's a habit I can't seem to break..... Wasn't even my refer or manual...
So take the easy way out and paint the back wall a dark color so that it blends in with the shadows. Could trin the hole casing style but a guess says that would look worse because ot the bold out of place look. And if the next refigerator is larger....
WTB the smaller refer was bought because of $$$ or a such a deal or that was all that was in stock and now it falls into the "make it work" catagory...Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming.... WOW!!! What a Ride!
Done a few(many) kitchens where the customer wanted a "tight fit" on the refer. When I explained to them that they don't have a $3000 Subzero and most refers need airspace, most of them listened to me. One or two didn't and they were out buying new ones within a year. The last client blamed me by saying that I should have never built the cabinet if that was the case. I corrected her by showing her where she changed the cabinet dimensions, the refer size and the exact placement of her signature on that drawing. She then wanted me to make her new refer opening bigger since they also bought a new, larger refer. When she showed me the specs, I pointed out the door will hit the counter and tile will need to be replaced, the upper refer cab needed to be raised/cut smaller and the lights would not line up on the door opening. Plus I reminded them of new door costs, finish cost, etc. She then stated that it needed to be done and the new refer was being delivered in two days and she had no other place to put it and didn't want to pay to have it moved twice.
The best part of this whole meeting was when her husband finally got fed up and said that she should have listened to me in the first place. Then he went on to tell her that he told her to call me before ordering the new refer to make sure everything would fit and what the additional costs would be. He really got the look when he added that this whole thing is going to cost more than a subzero would have cost in the first place. It was hard to stand there and keep a straight face. I hate it when your stuck in the middle of an arguing couple.
I hate it when your stuck in the middle of an arguing couple.
That does suck... 'specially when they pass the buck for their dud decisions. But what do we know....Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming.... WOW!!! What a Ride!
I hate it when your stuck in the middle of an arguing couple.
Yeah, but when you get in the truck and your fifty feet from the house.........THAT"S the best part!!!!!
Eric
Had the opportunity to visit two past kitchen jobs today with this thread in mind. Each had 1/2 - 3/4 " clearance on sides with 2-3" clearance on top of the fridge. Consider those with the last kitchen I did last year which I remember the refrigerator being against the wall on one side and around 1/2" on the other and 3" on top and my own which has 1/2" on each side and 2" on top. The first two have been in place for over 5 years. The next one for about a year and my own which will be in place for over seven years. None are sub-zero and all have functioned properly without repair. On the other hand I do have a problem with sub-zeros as the best advice you can give your customer is to do a routine vacuuming of the motor and grille on top. It's a bitch when the repairman comes to your house, borrows your vaccum and charges you $120.00 to clean it up! I think the vent space is more important at the top than it would be at the sides.
It's ok to read owners manuals if they are not yours.
My GE refrigs all suck cooling air from the front. No gap or discharge grill will over heat the compressor.
Never enclose an refrigerator unless its a Sub-Zero type.
The guy is doing you a favor. 32" is to small for a reefer, unless its a vacation cabin . And like someone else said, its a real pain to make it bigger.
I just installed a new kitchen in my house and although I currently have a 33" fridge I made the opening for a 36. you are right, it does look a little off but I plan to have the kitchen cabinets much longer then the fridge. I find the 33" to be a little small but it was almost to big for the previous kitchen configuration. Honestly I think you are better off with the 36" opening. Someday you will need a new fridge that is bigger and better and you are all set.