Guys,
The circuit currently servicing my refrigerator is a 20Amp circuit with just two receptacles. One for the refrigertor – the second is just a wall outlet. I’d like use the wall outlet for a small beverage refrigerator (24 inch) that is part of a built-in unit. Instructions for the main refrigerator state that a 15A lcircuit is required. Instructions for the beverage refrigerator indicate a maximum draw of 3A. Because this is a 20A circuit, would you be comfortable with this or would you a separate circuit for the beverage refrigerator? If I need to add a circuit, I’d like to know now before I install the built-in.
Thanks.
Frank R.
Replies
First - I am NOT an electrician.
We typicaly do a dedicated circuit for a ref set up at 20A
Some refers only draw a bit more than half that.
they can draw more on impulse at start. The best way to know yours is to test it with a multitester tool.
Worst case is that both units kick in at exactly the same time, blowing a breaker, on a friday afternoon after you have left for the lake and you don't find out until sunday night when you get home and go to put the fish away and find out that something already smells fishy in there...
But I know of houses where two refers or a refer and a freezer have run on the same circuit for over a dozen years with no problem. You are probably fine
Welcome to the
Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
where ...
Excellence is its own reward!
"The best way to know yours is to test it with a multitester tool.""First - I am NOT an electrician." Good <G>, a using a multimeter to measure current is a good way to convert one into smoke and flames.A clamp on ampmeter is the proper tool (and many of them also mearsure voltage and resistance). But a multimeter is limited to measuring small currents if it has any current function at all.But, in general starting current is not an issue.Most motor loads will have a startup current of 6-8 times overating current. And often several times the rating of the breaker.That is why most breakers used in residential applications are Time Inverse. They work much like time delay fuses.They have a magentic trip that is "instanously" on shorts. But thermal trip for overloads. .
.
A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
Edited 4/30/2007 6:36 pm by BillHartmann
Guys,
Thanks for the input. The main refrigerator panel shows a max draw of 9A. Even with the 3A on the beverage fridge, that should still leave sufficient capacity on the 20A circuit for both.
Thanks again for the practical advice.
Frank R.
no prob' buddy
oh man that is some funny stuff there! Thanks for that!-worth exactly 2 cents!
Frank ,
The inside of your refrigerator has a plate on it telling you the draw in amps.
But, regardless, they should work together fine on a 20a circuit.
Ed
The plate and the book only state what it is SUPPOSED to be by design.Most electrical appliances and tools will actually use something slightly to greatly different, varying by age, cleanliness of apparatus, length of supply run and condition of receptable and plug, repair history, jada, jada, jada....
Have you ever seen one test out to draw exactly what is indicated?
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Have you ever seen one test out to draw exactly what is indicated?
It's not a test I make very often ...........can't remember last time I did it (I'm a full-time electrician). If the equipment is working well, usually the nameplate will tell me what I need to know.
But MAINLY:
the fact that Frank still has his owner's manual for the full fridge told me either
1) it's not very old and should be running great
OR
2) he's a hyper-type-A guy who keeps everything long after a regular person would lose it or throw it away. And these kinds of people tend to take preventitive maintenance VERY seriously.
So you see why I wasn't worried?
Edited 4/30/2007 11:48 pm ET by edlee
Edited 4/30/2007 11:53 pm ET by edlee
Guys,
I'm trying not to go to the well to often, but I have one more question. Is there anything in the NEC that prohibits running cable from four new wall receptacles to the basement, tying them together in a junction box and then running a single line into the main panel? I'm in a situation where I can easily fish cable from each new outlet down into the basement (which is open), but I'd have a difficult time running cable laterally across the studs from outlet to outlet then to the main panel. I'd be using 12 wire. Thanks again.
Frank R.
Is there anything in the NEC that prohibits running cable from four new wall receptacles to the basement..........I'd be using 12 wire.
Nope.
But be sure you use a nice big j-box. I hate when people cram a bunch of cables into a small box and then cut them short so it will all fit in.
With five pieces of 12/2 rx (if that's what you're using) then you need a 4"-sq X 2-1/8" deep (steel or plastic) to be kosher.
A 4-11/16" square by 2-1/8" deep would leave room for easy expansion. Dunno if 4-11's come in plastic.
Ed
If you can fish it down you can also fish it up at the next box. So you can wire from one to the other, just going through the basement without going through the walls.
.
.
A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
I knew you would get in on this eventually;)
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
just use the 5 hole push in connectors, they are the easiestests.:)-worth exactly 2 cents!
But I agree that odds are 99.9% that he will be fine with both on that circuit.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
I would make sure that when the compressors kick on it doesnt draw more than 19.99 amps for a 20 am circuit. Seems like they may never kick on at the same time so I would give it a shot and then if its a problem maybe you can change to a 30 am breaker?
-worth exactly 2 cents!