Replies

1. 
   andy_engel | Dec 20, 2005 04:41pm | #1

   How about opening up the back and posting a photo?

   Andy

   Never try to teach a pig to sing. It wastes your time and annoys the pig.

1. 
   jerseyjeff | Dec 21, 2005 04:21am | #6

   I am on it....

   I ordered me up a multimaster XL,  and will use it to nicely remove the drywall and plaster...  tune in for pictures in about 4 days

   Jeff

    

1. 
   andy_engel | Dec 21, 2005 04:47am | #7

   I love how this works. Not only do we get to see pics of the stairs and maybe learn something in the process, but you get a new Multimaster. Talk about a win/win!Andy

   Never try to teach a pig to sing. It wastes your time and annoys the pig.

2. 
   Danno | Dec 20, 2005 04:52pm | #2

   I agree with Andy Engel--a pic would be helpful. Off hand though, if you can get to the bottoms of the stringers, you can add a strongback to each one (2x4 flat) and that would help--I'd be sure to jack up so any sag is out first. I guess you could also add a stringer down the center. Your idea of plywood would probably work too.

1. 
   Piffin | Dec 20, 2005 05:31pm | #5

   The 2z4 flat would take away from headroom below 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

3. 
   Piffin | Dec 20, 2005 04:58pm | #3

   The answer to your problem depends a lot on what exists now. There are a few ways of framing to start with. An approximation of the age might possibly give a clue. The combination of both sheetrock and plaster underneath is slightly confusing, indicative of maybe earlier repair attempts?

   A stair framed with stringers might only need the center stringer re-inforced by adding a pair of sistered 2x4s to either side of it with glue and screws.
   OTOH, if it is a housed set then there is no center stringer and the whole thing is moving because the outers are not fastened to the adjacent walls.
   I'm going to make a stab in the dark though and guiess this was poorly built with cut stringers and the center one was left out. The phoito would be invaluable in assigning a fix. My guesswork is taking me to suggesting that with no center stringer, the fix would be to glue in 2x8 behind each riser tight under each tread, IF the side stringers are worthwhile.

    

    

   Welcome to the
   Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
    where ...
   Excellence is its own reward!

4. 
   hammer1 | Dec 20, 2005 05:23pm | #4

   Squeaks happen, most of the time, from two surfaces rubbing against each other. One of the common culprits is the tread to riser joint. There are a number of other places such as the tread and riser to the skirtboard and treads that have worked loose. The carriage can also be flexing. A short term solution may be to sprinkle some talc or baby powder in the open joints. If the underneath of the stair is in need of repair, this will be a good time to inspect the situation. Re-screwing at the riser/tread junction and shimming gaps under the tread to stringer area may be all that's needed.

   A lot depends on how the stairs were constructed, housed stringers or sawtooth stringers. If the stairs are older, they were likely assembled with nails. These work loose over time. Most repairs can be done if you have access to the underneath. Some shimming can be done from the top. You may have to remove the scotia molding if there is one. Loose nails in the treads can be replaced with trim head screws.

   For the short term, I would just do a little investigation and try to locate specific squeaks. If the stairs are not carpeted, a trim screw here or there on a tread may help. Dealing with the riser to tread connection is best done from under but cleaning out debris and a little powder may help Santa sneak around for a little while. You'll have a better idea what is going on once they are open underneath. Better fasteners and maybe some glue blocks will generally fix things, a weak center stringer can be sistered but slapping a piece of plywood on the bottom won't do anything.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
5. 
   IdahoDon | Dec 21, 2005 05:44am | #8

   At least around here, stair underachievement as described is often from the poorly build collections of scraps that were common from 1910ish to 1940ish.  Apparently an entire generation of carpenters existed without a decent idea of how stairs should be built.  Often a quick measurement shows riser variations of 1/2" on a good section and really bad everywhere else--not worth fixing.

   Happy stair building,

   Don

6. 
   Bear | Dec 21, 2005 05:55am | #9

   The answer to your problem is a strongback. Use a 2X4 on the flat. Try to cut it so it fit tightly from the floor to the top joist. But the key to a strongback working, is to be sure to screw it into every tread. I realize that this sounds like it will not work, but it will stiffen up the whole staircase amazingly.

   Bear

1. 
   jerseyjeff | Dec 21, 2005 06:40am | #10

   I think I get what you are saying,  it would almost be a spine underneath the stairs to support it?  

   I already have to tilt my head to get into the basement,  and doing that might cost too much clearance.   I am going to drop the ceiling and see whats there.