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Due to a series of events (mostly inexperience), our interior pre-hung doors have ended up too short leaving a gap from the floor of 1 1/4″ to 1 3/4′. Is there a “graceful” way to close this gap down to a more normal distance from the floor??
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Prescriptive codes don't address the connection at less common angles, so base the connection off more typical ones using bolts, structural screws, blocking, and steel tension ties.
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Not one that will look right. You could try making bottoms for the door (say 3/4). Then make a small bead around each peice to hide the point where it is glued to the door. Remember that if you are measuring off the subfloor 1 1/4 is some what acceptable for hard wood and 1 3/4 might fly for carpet. I cut hardwood doors at 1" and Carpet doors at 1 3/8"
*what is the floor finish? I'm thinking maybe a layover threshold. Even if it's carpet...or tile....maybe an oak threshold between the jambs. Don't try to close the whole gap.....if it's forced hot air.....you need the circulation....and anything too big would be a trip hazzard. You could make the thresholds custom on the table saw....and size each to maintain a consistent gap under all the doors. Only other way would be to add to the bottom....are they getting painted? A line will probably show....but may be pretty well out of site line. Drop back and punt! And.....delete the duplicate posts....easy to do...Jeff
*Simple...just cut a strip the a sixteenth wider than the thickness of the door (later sanded flush) by the width of the door by whatever dimension is required to close the gap...3/4" to 1 1/4", depending on the gap. Poplar for paint grade, species for stain.Glue and nail them to the bottom. Prime and paint, or stain as required. Paint will be invisible, you may see a grain line with the stain, but only becuase you know it's there. It's be invisivle to the rest of the world.One additional item...the bottoms of some doors have a slight factory bevel to the bottom rail. If painting, you can add your fill strip, then putty this bevel, then prime and paint. If staining, you may want to rip the rail to remove the bevel. THEN measure what sized filler strip you'll need to fill the gap.
*If they are in, glue a 3/4" strip on the bottom. Something matches the rest of the door is nice.
*i "leaving a gap from the floor of 1 1/4" to 1 3/4'."above finished floor? subfloor?retack the jambs with crosspieces, cut the prehungs out of the opening with a sawzall, install an extra 2x header (or whatever thickness material that keeps it simple), cut the jamb legs off to size, and reinstall prehung. brian
*OOOH BOY!And $10 gets you $50 when I say I bet the door casing is already nailed in place too, huh? Gonna have to remove that too. OOH BOY!George's way is the easiest, but Brian's way will not look like a "mistake" after its done.Davo
*On rail-and-stile doors, the tacked-on strip will look...tacky. The cross grain of the stile and the length grain of the patch will split the paint and the fix will show. Worse if not painted. Tried it on a Victorian with funny-size doors...yuck...do over.Brian has the best remedy, which would be a snap if you had foamed the jambs in place. I would rather reset the door jambs than glue/sand/bevel/paint/look-at uglified doors.
*Ain't you people ot one of them fancy door stretchers? I hear tell they work wonders....Pull the door, trim the jambs, reinstall the doors as prehungs. Just like Brian suggests. More work, better results.James DuHamel
*i'll have to agree with james,cut the jambs-do it right.
*If their the cheapies that cost about thirty dollars, I'd buy new ones. .........