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Remove Heating oil from concrete

| Posted in General Discussion on December 3, 2003 08:22am

During delivery heating oil was splashing against the cinder block foundation outside.  It has seeped into part of the wall on the inside.  Is there something I could use to seal over this area to stop the odor?  Is there a way to clean it out of the cinder blocks?

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  1. DavidThomas | Dec 03, 2003 09:39pm | #1

    1) spilling oil happens (cleaning it up from soil and groundwater is my line of work) but is not standard work practice. Seems like you have a claim against the oil delivery company.

    2) Start with Simple Green and hot water. Wear gloves, use a stiff scrub brush and old towels to dam in the run-off. Slurp it up with a shop vac.

    3) repeat (2) until you see diminishing returns.

    4) then test various sealers in small patches for adhesion and durability. The stuff used for service station floors comes to mind.

    I can think of all kinds of solvents that readily dissolve diesel/heating oil. Gasoline being the cheapest. Hexane being less carcinogenic. Any of the now restricted chlorinated solvents (TCE, PCE, etc) would work great. But they all have wicked nasty health consequences, give you a buzz, can go "BOOOM", and the liquid is highly flammable (remember Michael Jackson's hair and face getting flambed (sp?) back when he black and out of jail?)

    De-odorized, food-grade kerosene is about the only solvent that is a bit lighter than diesel (i.e. would help dissolve the heating oil) without major health and safety issues. But it would, in turn, leave a residue. Just less smell.

    Do the Simple Green thing.

    If that doesn't do enough, escalate to dishwashing detergent. Long gloves and goggles are an absolute must. The stuff is caustic (base, alkaline) - that's how is cuts the grease. Soak, scrub bush, dam, shop vac as before. But study up on first aid beforehand. See my and other's comments on acid/base burns in the "Sex and Death" thread in the Tavern Section.

    David Thomas   Overlooking Cook Inlet in Kenai, Alaska
    1. steveodiy | Dec 03, 2003 10:24pm | #2

      Thanks for the reply.

      The Oil is on the wall where the fill and vent pipe come in the house.  They were installed wrong, pitched down towards the fill cap, which left oil in the fill pipe and wicked out through the pipe threads plus splashed out after the nozzle was disconnected during deliveries.  This is all according to my oil burner guy who is currently replacing the pipes.

      As far as sealers do mean like Drylock or an epoxy paint? Should I  etch the wall first with an acid/water mix?

      1. DavidThomas | Dec 03, 2003 10:27pm | #3

        I'd lean towards an epoxy paint but it's not my speciality. Whether you acid- or base-wash the wall; use a lot of water to flush it away and then let it dry thoroughly.David Thomas   Overlooking Cook Inlet in Kenai, Alaska

        1. DaveRicheson | Dec 03, 2003 11:02pm | #4

          I have had some sucess with making a paste of Tide and odorless mineral spirits. Apply , let stand, and then scrub off with warm water. Repeat two or three times and then  seal with BullsEye primer. Don't use the Tide that is marked safe for septic systems. Get the high phosphate kind. The epoxy coating should then seal the rest of the smell in the block.

          Dave

          1. johnharkins | Dec 03, 2003 11:20pm | #5

            those respondents before me gotta know more than me but I spilled some not too long ago and turned around and 10 feet away was some kitty litter

            worked well enough if there is a lot in/on wall I'd build temp wall in front  - tape & cardboard? - and give it a go

          2. DavidThomas | Dec 04, 2003 05:15am | #6

            The big guys use kitty litter too.  Oh, we call it various other things and order it in 2,000-pound bags for planned jobs.  But in a remote area, in a hurry?  You take a credit card to Safeway and buy them out.  Nice for diesel, fuel oil, JP-4, etc.  Gasoline mostly evaporates away.  But that C10-C20 range stuff doesn't.  But absorbent clay will suck it up.

            Polypropylene is even better, especially on a weight/weight basis.  If you have any old, pilly, shrunk-in-dryer long underwear, save it.  Keep it nearby when you change the oil.  It sucks up oil like the best moist sponge does water.  Also used industrially - comes as mats or booms of fine PP fibers woven together.David Thomas   Overlooking Cook Inlet in Kenai, Alaska

          3. johnharkins | Dec 04, 2003 05:39am | #7

            Hey David   had no idea of polypro fibers having absorbing powers -  other than my underarm sweat  the  odor increased exponentially

            will keep that in mind

          4. DavidThomas | Dec 04, 2003 05:51am | #8

            The exact same effect.  That's why the early PP underwear (Patagonia, circa 1980)got ripe so quick - it soaks up body oils.

            Newer PP fabrics have some treatments applied to them.  Not sure if they are as good as oil-sucking rags.David Thomas   Overlooking Cook Inlet in Kenai, Alaska

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