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Remove stippling from ceiling?

SpikeyMikey | Posted in General Discussion on January 23, 2009 01:23am

The ceiling in the kitchen and family room of my 43 year old 3/2 ranch was stippled by the previous homeowner. It looks like rough stucco with no pattern and comes down 3/8 inch in some places, truly hideous. I want to get it back to slick finish without hanging new drywall. Does anybody know of a tool that will remove this stuff without making an enormous mess? Has anybody ever tried a Paintshaver hooked to a vacuum to remove this stuff? I’m just an old trim carpenter and have little experience in this area. Any advice will be appreciated.

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  1. wallyo | Jan 23, 2009 01:49am | #1

    You are probably dealing with a texture paint, if so then what was done before is going to determine how it comes off, If it is just put up on a semi gloss dirty ceiling it may scrape off with ease. If it is on flat or primer you might tear the sheet rock paper off. I would try a scraper that takes a blade like for wall paper or vinyl tile there are ceiling scraper that have a hoop like blade that a bag goes on to, but never used one, more for popcorn type finish

    Now if it is joint compound or plaster wetting it may help but that is if it is unpainted. I would try a test area and fiddle around wet, dry, blade, putty knife. but if it is up there pretty good by the time you are done it may be faster to pull it down and re-rock it.

    Wallyo

  2. frenchy | Jan 23, 2009 02:09am | #2

    You might get lucky getting it soaking wet and using a scraper or Ice chipper (If you live in the north you know what it is if not think of a relatively wide heavy putty knife on the end of a shovel  handle)..

     if that doesn't work tear it down it will be faster easier and cheaper..



    Edited 1/22/2009 6:10 pm ET by frenchy

    1. AitchKay | Jan 23, 2009 03:30am | #3

      I did a ceiling float once where I used a paint roller to apply Durabond, knocked off the peaks with a sander, then re-applied Durabond, pressing a wide knife tight to the peaks to fill in the valleys.It was a controlled way to apply a thick coat -- the knocked-down peaks formed a screed. It worked fine.This system might work for you, too, but I'd test the existing texture for water-solubility and adequate adhesion by sanding a square foot or two lightly, misting it, and keeping it damp for 12 hours or so. Then give it a test scrape or two.You'd rather avoid the labor and mess of scraping it all off, but if you have to, you'll know when you go to scrape the damp spots.AitchKay

  3. chairmon | Jan 23, 2009 09:55am | #4

    Hi
    You may consider renting the porter cable drywall sander. Then go and get some 60grit self adhesive floor sanding paper (advise separate trips) attach that to the pad and it will remove what you need. If it is painted it will actually help you from accidentally chewing up the drywall paper.

    Craig

  4. DaveRicheson | Jan 23, 2009 02:06pm | #5

    Porter Cable dw sander with the coarses grit paper made for it (80 I think). The PC hooks up to your shop vac, so that will reduce the mess somewhat. It will not intirely get it back to a smooth finish, but will knock it down enough to run a skim coat of mud over it. Then after the skim coat is applied use the sander agian with a 120 grit disk.

    If the ceiling has not been painted you can use a sponge mop to wet the texture, then a 10" or 12" drywall knife to scrape it. Work in small 4' or 5' sections and keep wetting/scraping  untill yo get the worst of it off. Follow this with a skim coat of mud and sand.

    In either case make sure you keep drop cloths down. I have also found that an extra pair of shoe tucked under the edge of the drop cloth come in handy to keep you from tracking the dust or srapings through the rest of the house or even outside.

    I have done them both ways and neither is easy or fast. If you are not a good finisher, you could hire that part out and save both time and money. Skim coating to a smooth and flat  finish takes more experience than most DIYer's ever can achieve in a few small dw projects. The real time and grunt work is in getting the old texture knocked down.

    1. wallyo | Jan 23, 2009 11:38pm | #7

      The PC sander is not a bad idea the 80 grit may not be course enough I think the paper is foam backed hook and loop, only pc paper works because of the padding.Wallyo

      1. DaveRicheson | Jan 24, 2009 12:38am | #8

        Hopefully it is not painted. The PC will walk right through it if that is the case. I think he said the previous owner had texture it about three years ago. Most textured ceiling around here don't get painted because the dw mud is white enough. Usssually take about  4-5 years for them to start getting dingy looking and need paint. Sooner if smokers live in the house.

        Some of the older PC sanders did not have hook and loop disk (mine was that way b4 a conversion).

      2. [email protected] | Jan 24, 2009 02:10am | #9

        Norton makes paper for the PC sander, and  it is sold the the HomeDesperate, (at least in Boise, and Missoula). 

  5. Clewless1 | Jan 23, 2009 05:58pm | #6

    Worse case, I try to avoid tearing down the old drywall. Even if I had to install stringers/sleepers of some kind, I'd add to the old ... drywall over the old stuff.

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