As an intermediate DIYer, I’m not afraid to take on a project, but I don’t like going in blind. I’m thinking about remodeling my children’s bathroom – removing the old cast iron tub along with the old tile surround. What is the best way to remove the tub? It should fit through the door opening in one piece without any problem, but I’m concerned about the weight of the tub and moving it down from the second floor – should I cut it into multiple pieces with a recip saw or can it be maneuvered down and out the front door (its a straight shot from the bath room to the stairs to the front door) as is? Is the weight of the tub just too prohibitive – I’ll be working primarily with my two teenage boys (15 & 14) on this project. Also, what are your collective thoughts about resurfacing the tub in place and just re-doing the tile surround? Thx for the input.
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Replies
http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=58846.1
http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=40360.1
Do an advanced search under 'cast iron tub', grab a sledge and brew, and start reading. And wear safety glasses.
Nick,
Thx for the gouge and the links to the other replys to same question. Looks like the best bet is to remove vice having resurfaced since I plan on being in this home for many more years. I have a friend that is a Master Plumber and I inted to employ him to set the the new tub - just thought it would be a better use of my time vice his to do the demo and removal work. I know my limitations when it comes to plumbing and that is half the battle when planning for a remodel project. Thx,
Mac
No problem. And welcome to BT.
I never met a tool I didn't like!
Sledge was my method when I removed the pepto-bismol pink tub from my old bathroom. Definitely a fun one man job.
Howe'er, the pounding shook the bejesus out of the whole house, and generated numerous plaster cracks in adjacent rooms. Don't know if my technique was wrong in beating the carp out of the tub, but I just thought I'd pass the warning on.
Mac,
If you have the space and the ability, (your two sons) to remove the tub in one piece, I'd always rather try that as the first option, they are heavy, but it's a lot cleaner less work if they come out in one piece.
That said, Breaking them apart is usually easier then trying to lift them out. Like Nick said, a sledge hammer will be your best friend, Use a moving blanket if available, or old heavy blanket, to cover the tub before you start breaking it. The blanket holds back 99% of the debris from flying all over. Shrapnel from a cast iron tub is dangerously sharp and has a tendency to fly directly towards something you would rather it not hit. A heavy shirt, thick leather gloves, goggles, and ear protection are a must.
Good Luck, Neil
Mac,
If it's a claw foot rub and you are nearby I'll gladly come over and remove it for you.. I'll be careful not to scratch anything and I'll not only remove it but I'll haul it off and you won't need to pay me a cent!
The old story about one mans trash,....
circular saw ... cheap abrasive blade.
Open a window and wear ear plugs.
sledges in small baths are over rated.
Jeff
Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
You really think that? I ask because we can take a cast tub out in 20 minutes with a sledge, shop vac the room and be ready to go in 45 minutes tops. I have never tried the abrasive approach but it would shock me to know its faster.
Then again maybe speed isn't the issue for you but for us we want to have the room demo'd in 2-4 hours tops. DanT
Then again maybe speed isn't the issue for you but for us we want to have the room demo'd in 2-4 hours tops.
Is that down to the studs? That's moving right along. jt8
It's better to light a candle than to curse the darkness. --Chinese proverb
Most of the baths we do don't go to the studs, but ad two hours to get there. We do bathrooms with one guy but send in a second on the first day for demo and on the third or fourth morning send in a second guy to help load the room with vanity, med cabinet etc. DanT
I do BRs by myself, and a full gut renovation takes me about 3 weeks. I just got a call from someone who has ~140 bathrooms that need to be renovated within the next two years (Average works out to be about 4 every 3 weeks.) I'm thinking the local sub base (that's on the base closure list) and its funded by HUD. They want to replace all fixtures and install tile floors. The project could solve my twin's tuition bills, but this is far and away above what I normaly do.
You seem to do baths on a greater scale, what do you do to compress the schedule?
Thanks. (Sorry to highjack the thread, but this just came up and I need to decide/act ASAP.)
I never met a tool I didn't like!
Nick,
We do a lot of middle class bathrooms which means new tub, surround, toilet, vinyl floor, vanity, lav and tub faucet, sink, med cabinet and light, towel bars etc., and sometimes paint. We can do one a week with one guy in a 5' X 8' bath.
We do it by doing the following;
1) Have every part for the job on our shop floor 2 weeks before the start date.
2) Unless the customer request it we usually supply the same brand of faucets. (amazing how it slows things up when you have to re acclimate yourself to a different product)
3) We repair the rock and not replace it and use hot mud on all three coats, sometimes the last coat is bucket mud if we can leave it over night but we want to make sure the mud will not hold us up.
4) Bring in a second guy on the first morning for about 2 hours for help on demo.
5) Bring in a second guy usually on Wednsday to set the tub/set the vanity etc.
With sheer repitition you get quicker. Often we are done in 4 days and occasionally 6. But if we were doing the HUD job you are speaking of and didn't have to do ceramic or paint we could knock them out in 4 after the first 10 or so. DanT
give it a shot once ...
real old .. ie thicker cast ... take just a bit longer.
New(er) ... like only 30 or 40 year old stuff ...
cuts thru like butter.
If I am cutting it in the bath ... I pull it first ... then flip it.
usually 2 cuts ... makes for 4 pieces.
very quick.
I put a towel/tarp at the bottom of the door if it's owner occupied and cut away.
give it a shot. U might like it.
Jeff
edit to say ... I usually work in shorts and over the ankle boots. My circular saw way .... no more taping up gashes on my shins from flying tub pieces ...
Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
Edited 6/1/2005 5:36 pm ET by JEFF J. BUCK
I vote full body armour and a sledge hammer. They break apart easily.
You did also ask about refinishing, and my experience with that has been good. We hired a local company that has been doing that for about 10 years, and can't complain about the result. Cost was about $300. If it were I, that would be my first choice if the layout is going to stay the same. I believe this has been discussed in other threads, but it seems that the best results are directly dependent on the skill and experience of the person applying the finish. If someone does that in your area, I would suggest at least considering refinishing as a possibility.
Regards,
Aaron
And when you replace that cast iron tub--make sure you don't replace it with some plastic or fiberglas junk that's going to start falling apart after a couple of years.I personally would remove the tub in one piece, wrap it in a moving blanket to keep from scratching the walls and floor and haul it out to the curb.
Here's why: If you set a cast iron tub on the curb someone is going to drive by and pick it up, saving you getting the shards hauled. You'll be amazed at how fast things get picked up. The local Goodwill might even want it.
I stopped leaving partical board and treated lumber scraps since I learned that the woman who picked them up was burning them in her fireplace and lived about 300' away from my house.
My MIL had her tub refinished three times. First time it lasted about 10 years in good condition before a tile guy destroyed it (different story). Second time (2nd outfit) it was flaking within weeks. Third time (3rd outfit) the finish has held pretty well (slight flaking around drain), but the finish was not especially smooth.