My client has a large (4′ x 6′) mirror attached to a wall. Been there so long nobody knows how it’s attached. No visible clips or brackets. Prying up, etc, doesn’t budge it.
I suspect it’s glued onto the sheetrock.
Any advice on the most efficient, safest way to get this thing off? I had thought about covering it with “contact paper” , the sticky vinyl sheets used to cover shelves,etc. to help keep the shards contained, and just pry away with a flat bar against a 1×4 held nearby to give a solid fulcrum vs. poking through the sheetrock.
It’ll come off one way or the other, but I’d like to keep it as controlled and mess-free as possible.
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I'll share a tip that I heard here, but I don't remember who posted it first so I can't give proper credit.
Anyway, slip a piece of braided cable behind it and use a sawing motion to break the glue bond. Since it's a pretty big mirror, it will take 2 people to "saw" so I don't know how well this will work.
Contact paper is not very adhesive. I think packing tape might be a better choice.
I have some braided cable that would be perfect, and the HO is willing to help for sure. We'd be like sawing a big tree down.Packing tape would be fun. 2" at a time.
Edited 2/5/2009 5:52 pm ET by geoffhazel
My experience every time with this is if you pry VERRRRRY SLOWLY...it will start to tear the paper bond to the sheet rock. Usually glaziers install the mirrors with cow pie plops of glue. Get a wood shim under the edge and push it in until there's a bit of flex in the glass and it's tight. Now do it to an adjoining side so it starts to put pulling pressure from one side to the other. Work it with a pry bar real slow.
When you start to hear tearing of the paper, let up a bit then do it again until the tearing sound starts again. Keep doing that until you feel one of the glue spots lift off. Keep working and prying slowly and more often than not, you will get the whole mirror off in one piece.
Wear safety goggles, gloves & long sleeves.
all good advice, but get some suction cups also to help with handling the mirror. DO NOT rely on them to hold the mirror by themselves though. GLOVES, LONG PANTS, LEATHER SHOES, GLASSES, LONG SLEEVES
I put suction cups on the mirror first then cover the remaining with sticky carpet protector. I think it comes in 30" rolls.
All done. I got there tonight and it was much smaller than I had thought. It was a bathroom tri-fold, with the center about 2' x 2' and the wings about a foot each. The HO already had some shims in place -- there was a good quarter inch between the back of the mirror and the wall.... I can see daylight behind practically the whole mirror. hmm.... two brackets, top and bottom, holding it to the wall, top and bottom. They are horizontal rails that key into the extruded frame. It looks like it should slide sideways.I shove it sideways, and it moves a tiny bit. What's holding it in place? Feel on the top: screws. Climb up on the vanity and get a good look: two small cap screws holding it to the top rail. Grab a hex key that just happens to fit, unscrew the two and it practically falls off the wall.No shims or other heartburn necessary. Everybody rejoices. And even though I didn't need the shims this time, I gotta say, if it had been glued on, we were SOOO ready! You guys rock. Again.
Cut the gyprock around the perimeter of the mirror with a Rotozip, then pull it off the studs carefully. The screws will pull through. You're gonna have to patch the gyprock anyway if you manage to saw or pry it off and this way you're much less likely to break the mirror.
Dinosaur
How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not brought
low by this? For thine evil pales before that which
foolish men call Justice....
I criss/cross the face of the mirror with duct tape, (that size) maybe 20+ times. All over the face. Cover with a packing blanket, tape to mirror, ceiling, or nail into ceiling and side walls. I use a wide (maybe 6-8") paddle and slide in wherever I can, slowly. Works great, sometimes you get it down in one piece sometimes not. Have cardboard boxes handy or a sturdy refuse can. My paddle is about 2' long SS from my restaurant days.
Do not duct tape or tape in anyway this mirror. Accept that it will shatter. Cover the mirror with the clear carpet protector you can find at Lowes or Home depot. This material is very thick and I can assure you as the mirror breaks or shatters no glass pieces will scatter about.
I removed a mirror much larger than yours and while it broke up we had to cut the carpet protector in order to remove chunks from the wall.
Here's a photo of the mirror before and after we covered it with the carpet protector, just before we demolished it. And a web site example of the carpet protector.
http://www.installersstore.com/cgi-bin/INSstore.pl?user_action=detail&catalogno=12-0030
Check out FHB #192 pg 34
Edited 2/5/2009 11:12 pm by jagwah
Edited 2/5/2009 11:14 pm by jagwah
Geoff
I just did a bathroom mirrorabout the same size. HO wanted to save mirror for reuse if at all possible I couldn't saw with cable as one side was too close to a corner wall. after some thought I called a glass guy that does some work for me. He said he could do it for $about $150 but no guarantee he was going to use those large suction cups and just try pulling it off.
He also suggested buying a few packs of those cheap wedges the extra long ones a can of goof off and told me to do this.
I taped up mirror just in case I took a long piece of that simpson wire that holds in roll insulation slid it behind the mirror to locate the glue spots & marked the wall and then started dripping the goof off down there gave it 10 min to start working then placed wedges around mirror and tapped real easy applying pressure around the mirror I kept repeating process and was able to get the mirror to release in one piece and was able to use it again
Only problem was it is time consuming about an hour and a half give or take maybe luck was with me
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When we are working with glass or mirrors that will most likely break, we laminate the surface with carpet shield. It works great and helps keep things in one place. You should be able to pry the mirror off, depending on how many glue spots there are.
I worked for a martial arts studio and had to relocate the large (4 x 8)wall mirrors. A few guys, a few beers and we came up with a system of grabbing the top, flexing the mirror and waiting for the mastic to pop off on each spot. Slow is the key. The glass will flex, just don't rush it.
I have one right about that same size.
customers wanted it demo'd ... I wanted it out nice and safe.
called my glass guy, he told me to use shims.
just make sure it's got something to land on/set on when it pops.
I also screwed a 2x4 L bracket from the ceiling to keep it from toppling over.
just used shims. 2 on each side ... tap them in ... slow ... then add some shims on top for fatter shims.
I had each side "bent" off the walls about 3/4 of an inch before she popped.
never would have believed glass would do that.
glass guy said I'd scratch the heck outta the back of I tried the string-saw method.
also had a chance to do the string saw method ... string gets hung up alot ...
very frustrating ... had to comvince the guy let's dump the string and break out the shims.
on that first job, and each one since ... I still tape and cover fully expecting it to break. But so far ... shims have worked perfectly each time. Even on glass we're planning on tossing right into the dumpster ... it's muahc faster, safer, easier.
I still gear up, wear long sleeves and gloves and expect the damn thing to bust into a million pieces ... but works like a charm.
scray as hell the first time ... and ... it makes one hell of a loud pop.
first one was over a mantle ... just dropped that 1/4 of an inch down ... and the brace held the top in place.
just tap, tap, tap around as ya go.
Jeff
Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
Wood shims have worked for me, too. It helps to get the area really warm. Many bathrooms have heaters in them. The mastic is softer when warm (this is mirror mastic I'm talking about) so it releases with less pressure.Bill
never thought of that but I'd bet heat helps.
might wanna "cook it" for 24 hrs before hand.
can't hurt.
Jeff
Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
The wire saw had me thinking. Why not a japanese pull saw? You can get ones with decent size teeth and some with some really good length, and you could rig up an extension to get in even further.
You could screw in blocks on each bottom corner to support the weight as the bond is cut. I think you could do if fairly quickly depending on the saw teeth on the blade used.
Cutting through mastic is like trying to cut through asphalt shingle....the teeth will clog after the first pull
As previously stated. Slowly use wedges and/or a pry par. Taking your time will easily get the mirror off in one piece. You will hear the paper tearing off the dry wall. Come to think of it, I haven't removed one on a plaster wall.
Take your time. Take your time(repeated on purpose)
The mastic can be removed from the mirror, but that another method that has pretty good success rate. I hate doing it. Too much work for a piece of mirror that has a potential for breaking.
After the mirror is removed , I use a glass cutter to make the mirror more manageable and easier to dispose.