Replies

1. 
   Jemcon | Aug 27, 2007 03:55am | #1

   A little more info would help. Are you ripping a whole house or need to remove one piece? You can't unzip aluminum like vinyl. If it's 1 piece I cut 1" below the next panel and pop it off the panel below. Then I cut the top edge off the new piece and slide it under the edge of the upper panel and lock it into the lower panel like usual. A few pop rivits along the top edge will hold it together. It helps if you run a utility knife between  the upper panel flange and the 1" you left from the old panel. If a dawing will help let me know.

   If this is not what you want please explain more.

    

    

    

   Headstrong, I'll take on anyone!

1. 
   karteberry | Aug 27, 2007 04:05am | #2

   Am putting a gable vent in (a larger version). I can get to the top piece, and I need to remove about 4 pieces down, then trim and reinstall. Can it be done ? Could I reinstall "vinyl" ?

1. 
   DanH | Aug 27, 2007 04:22am | #3

   If you can start from the top, and will be discarding most of the pieces, then just start from the top. A stiff putty knife and a miniature "Wonder Bar" will help get the nails out.
   So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin

2. 
   Jemcon | Aug 27, 2007 04:23am | #4

   If you can get to the top remove the nails and carefully unhook the bottom edge. There is no definite way to keep aluminum from bending.be very careful . As  far as installing vinyl it won't match.

   Can you get matching aluminum incase it gets damaged?  

    

    

   Headstrong, I'll take on anyone!

3. 
   davidhawks | Aug 27, 2007 04:25am | #5

   Taking down those few courses shouldn't be too bad if practice lots of patience.  You should be able to reuse them once you've cut them to fit the new vent.  I like to spray a dry lubricant on the tracks to help them go back together easier.Live in the solution, not the problem.

4. 
   JeffBuck | Aug 27, 2007 08:49am | #7

   Can it be done ?

    

   Yes.

   Jeff    Buck Construction

    Artistry In Carpentry

        Pittsburgh Pa

5. 
   JTC1 | Aug 27, 2007 06:06pm | #9

   Yes, can be done and the siding reused.

   Gable vent area should not be a bad job.   Have removed as many as 15 courses to replace a garage window - re-used all - looking at the wall now, you would never know.

   Going slowly and carefully is the trick - top piece comes out - pull nails exposed - repeat until past the old vent and area needed for new vent.

   The siding will fight you every step of the way, there is no Zip tool for aluminum - best technique I have found is to insert a Zip tool at one end and pull down while tapping downward on the nailing flange - rubber mallet, once the siding unlatches at one end it can usually be removed by hand force only.

   If you can slide the siding slightly left or right before applying any down force, this seems to make it unlatch a little easier.

   Toughest part is not bending the siding.

   Keep pieces in order for reinstall.

   Note: if you want to label the pieces - use a pencil or tape on the back. DO NOT use a Sharpie on the back and then pile the pieces.  We did this once on a bunch of aluminum wrap for a HfH house - it rained on the pile and the Sharpie ink transferred to the face of the aluminum - never did figure out how to get the ink off - bent another batch of coil for the house.

   Jim

   Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.

1. 
   karteberry | Aug 27, 2007 09:55pm | #10

   Thanks guys for the responses. That was the information I needed to get me headed in the right direction. Have worked on and with vinyl, but not aluminum. Slow and careful seem to be the order of the day. New vent has nailing flange. I suppose I could cut the R.O. and caulk, but..

1. 
   DanH | Aug 27, 2007 10:06pm | #11

   Brick mold is a wonderful thing.
   So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin

2. 
   JeffBuck | Aug 27, 2007 11:59pm | #12

   had to disect then reinstall an entire gable wall of aluminun siding once ...

    

   due to the fact the original window was a round top ...

   and siding had been "cut tight and caulked" ...

    

   stripped the siding ... removed about 50% of the sheathing.

   tore old existing/rotted window ... replaced about 50% of the framing ...

    

   then resided ... papered .... installed new window ...

   and installed the custom J flashing I had a metal shop fab up.

    

   window had a nailing flange ... but a "field attached" one ... so it could be installed with or without. Didn't like that as the only option. Installed and rubber'd the window ... and installed the new custom flashing so I could sleep at night.

   also made for a nicer look ... as I had them fab it with a fatter profile to accept the newly trimmed old aluminum.

   had it made outta zinc so there was no corrosion ... I spray canned it with primer then a high gloss finish. Turned out looking fantastic.

    

   even though it was about 12ft above ground level at it's lowest ... it coulda been at eye height and still would have passed any inspection.

   forget the exact cost ... had a big half round for the top maybe 3ft high and 5ft wide ... and 2 - 7 or 8 ft legs for the sides. another 5ft stick for the bottom.

   didn't cost more than a small coupla hundred.

   thinking around $250 or so?

    

   In the end I was very happy with my solution. Customers were thrilled too ... as they had to sell ... turns out the buyers had looked at one or 2 other houses in the same neighborhood ... and bought theirs as all the others showed similar signs of rot ... not as bad yet ... and their inspector liked the fact their new window was flashed.

    

   Jeff    Buck Construction

    Artistry In Carpentry

        Pittsburgh Pa

2. 
   misfit | Aug 28, 2007 01:39pm | #13

   "use a pencil or tape on the back"if the backside of the aluminum is bare/uncoated don't use a lead pencil. it will react with the aluminum and start to corrode

1. 
   MGMaxwell | Aug 28, 2007 02:04pm | #14

   You know "lead" pencils are graphite right. They won't react.

2. 
   JeffBuck | Aug 29, 2007 12:42am | #15

   maybe his are from China ...

    

   Jeff    Buck Construction

    Artistry In Carpentry

        Pittsburgh Pa

3. 
   misfit | Aug 29, 2007 01:56pm | #18

   nope PA

4. 
   misfit | Aug 29, 2007 01:55pm | #17

   old school aircraft mechanic told me this so I tried it. after 6 months you could see the reaction starting. don't know what the pencil was made out of back then since it was his pencil.

5. 
   DanH | Aug 29, 2007 02:21pm | #19

   Pencil "lead" has been carbon and clay since the 1800s at least. Of course carbon is considered a metal, so you can get an electrolytic reaction between it and other metals. Not enough in a pencil mark to do much damage, though.
   So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin

6. 
   misfit | Aug 29, 2007 02:30pm | #20

   I believe(?) you're involved with aircraft constructioncomments??

7. 
   jet | Aug 29, 2007 04:07pm | #26

   It actually does cause corrosion.
   How ever it is due to the fact that the lead or graphite scratches the pure aluminum clad on the sheet. The pure aluminum is there to protect the sheet from corrosion."No doubt exists that all women are crazy; it's only a question of degree." - W.C. Fields

8. 
   misfit | Aug 30, 2007 01:19pm | #27

   interesting and it does make sense. but I always thought aluminum had a self defense chemistry by which the raw aluminum would scab over and protect itself. I guess the old timer was only half right.thanks for replying

9. 
   misfit | Aug 29, 2007 02:32pm | #21

   the corrosion that I saw was only where the 2" pencil line was. maybe humidity contributed to it?
   wish I had taken a picture of it at that time

10. 
    DanH | Aug 29, 2007 02:41pm | #22

    Yeah, I would believe there would be enough, with humidity, to cause some slight surface changes over a period of months. Not enought to cause structural problems with Al siding, though.
    So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin

11. 
    misfit | Aug 29, 2007 02:48pm | #24

    you sure? I've seen aluminum coil stock with small holes eaten right through it. ok maybe not for structural deficiencies short term but after 20 years? I have my doubts

    Edited 8/29/2007 7:48 am ET by misfit

12. 
    DanH | Aug 29, 2007 03:15pm | #25

    I doubt that the holes were due to pencil marks. As the surface erodes the pencil will eventually flake off, long before anything thicker than foil can be eaten through.
    So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin

13. 
    misfit | Aug 30, 2007 01:32pm | #28

    the holes were along a crease on some window wrap. several of the windows showed similar damage. a white powdery substance was visible in those areas. since the aluminum is stretched for the fold maybe that accelerated the damage due to reduced thickness?

14. 
    DanH | Aug 30, 2007 02:23pm | #29

    Yeah, you'll get stress cracks on the crease, creating inviting conditions for corrosion.Al will "skin over" under the right conditions, but not as effectively as anodizing. But when ever you cut or bend Al you destroy the anodizing. Plus any number of chemical reactions (especially deck cleaner) can do it.
    So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin

3. 
   renovatorbob | Aug 29, 2007 01:03am | #16

   Jim is correct with his details. You can use a typical zip tool, but you have to go very slowly or risk the tool popping loose and denting the siding. Once you have the top loose, you can insert the slim edge of the flat bar into the lock and lightly tap the piece loose. I have done this about 30-40 times, adding gable vents or replacing a piece of siding. One H/O sold me 2-3 squares of the material used in his neighborhood- amazing what the insurance companies will pay instead of wrapping the whole house! I would label the pieces with a sharpie, but then put tape over it to make sure it didn't wash off. you may need a crimper to tighten up the lock prior to reinstall.

6. 
   DonCanDo | Aug 29, 2007 02:46pm | #23

   I just installed a gable vent fan yesterday.  I did not remove any of the vinyl siding.  Here's what I did:

   I cut a hole right through the siding and the sheathing 1 1/2" larger than the fan and boxed it out, creating a jamb.  This fan installs from the outside, much like a window, so I did that next.  It's secured to the sheathing and the new jamb.

   Then I cut back the siding about 2" using a utility knife (a right angle grinder with a cutting disc should work for aluminum).  I used Tyvek and Tyvek tape over the fan's flange and as far under the siding as I could reach.

   Next I slipped in the J-molding and undersill trim.  I didn't even bother securing the J-molding.  This left a gap between the J-molding and the fan housing.  I ripped PVC trim to fit in these gaps and secured it with stainless trim screws.  The trim will prevent the J-molding from slipping out.

   I left a little room between the trim and the J-molding to allow for expansion and contraction, but just a little since it's summer right now and it shouldn't expand too much more.

2. 
   ponytl | Aug 27, 2007 05:01am | #6

   around here the crackheads just rip it off and sell it for scrap...

   p

3. 
   marv | Aug 27, 2007 05:03pm | #8

   How do you remove aluminum siding. i.e. is there a tool that slides along bottom like vinyl or how do you do it ?

   Place a sign in the yard ..."free aluminum"....it will be off within the hour.

   I once remodled my kitchen and had to remove a lot of aluminum siding. I neatly stacked it beside my workshop.  Thieves came and stole the big pieces....then came back and got the small pieces.....then came back and took the scrap and left beer bottles!  Boy was I pissed.  I wish I could have hooked up 110v to the aluminum.

   You get out of life what you put into it......minus taxes.

   Marv