Replies

1. 
   CDD | Feb 22, 2002 06:34am | #1

   *
   First, run a razor along the top if it is caulked so it won't tear away any paper, paint. Using a thin pry bar or chisel, start in an area which is not easily seen just in case you dent the wall. Once you have it started, pry slowly from behind with the chisel/prybar at each nail in order to minimize the chances of breaking it. Once you have it going a few feet it should come off easily. After you have it removed, pull the nails from the back of the base with side cutters so you don't dent the face or pop any of the filled nail holes. Good Luck.

1. 
   Jeff_J._Buck | Feb 22, 2002 06:46am | #2

   *All depends on the base and the wall. But...a number of combo's will usually work. On newer base....punching the nails half way thru with a nail set sometimes let you pull it easier. On old base....the nails usually like to come out with the board. On any tyoe of wall......cut the paint/caulk line at the top of the base.....and at base shoe and at floor...if necessary...with a utility knife. Also cut at the corners to break any bond. I'll start with a sturdy putty knife....work it down...sometime a few hammer taps.....and gently work it away from the wall. Do this the whole way down the wall. Then...I have a small japanese nail puller.....with a wide/flat...but curved end.....that is the next step. I slip a large drywall knife behind the base....and put the small flat bar against it....as this portects the wall...and spreads the pressure...and pry some more. On a newer house with small base and drywall walls.....this is usually enough to get the base away from the wall. On oldr homes with big thinck/tall base on plaster walls.....this only gets the base far enough away to fit the wonder bar in....again using a drywall knife to protect the wall.....and trying to work "gently"..so the platster doesn't crumble....or come flying out with the base. I'll have a series of pry bars and drywall knives/putty knives on hand....and mix and match as you go....using what ever your wall likes the best. Nail sets and punch pins are handy too. As can be a sawzaw if used carefully. On old base that wouldn't budge....when the base was getting tossed...and the wall's repaired....or wainscotted.....I've even screwed blocks a few inches off the floor...and used that with my big crow bar and ripped the whole darn thing outta the way. More mess.....nothing salvaged....and usually a wall to patch...but if all this is gonna happen any way.....it's much faster. Remember to go back and pull any and all nails let sticking out of the wall......look twice....there's usually a few hiding....because they'll screw ya up later....and if you just hammer them back in......that's the exact place you'll go to nail the new stuff on.....usually the very last nail......and then it'll bend your nail and mess up an other wise perfect job! Heppens each and every time....so pull them all right at the begining. Luck, Jeff

1. 
   Brian_Smith | Feb 22, 2002 08:17am | #3

   *in place of putty knives and pry bars, i have to recommend a visit to the local paint store or HD and pick up a couple of "5-in-1" tools. always get best results with these. lot of experience behind this recommendation.and work slowly...brian

1. 
   Phill_Giles | Feb 22, 2002 09:46am | #4

   *All good advice; however, everyone seems to be assuming the base was nailed into wooden studs by hand and the mitres aren't glued or heavily toe-nailed.

1. 
   Not_Enough_Time | Feb 22, 2002 06:06pm | #5

   *Thanks alot everyone.N.E.T.

2. 
   Bucksnort_Billy | Feb 23, 2002 03:47am | #6

   *While all the aforementioned work, I've got another, of course. 3" wide paint scraper, angled, stiff blade. You can belt sand it as sharp as you want. The angle gives you some room to smack it, and it's plenty stiff enough to hold up up to a wonder bar when you're really prying. I'll get the brand name on Monday, when I hook up with my tools again.

3. 
   Qtrmeg_ | Feb 23, 2002 04:01am | #7

   *I guess we are assuming it is painted base? Fine cut the caulk and joints with a knife, (an adjustable knife with the blade set short may save you some grief along the base top edge). And yeps, I've thrown nails into miters to close up the troublesome ones, good luck dealing with that. Watch it as you come to the miters and deal with it the best you can.All I really wanted to add is, take the base off in the reverse order it was installed, (like start from a corner to the miter, for instance), and a wonderbar can leave no marks in the hands of a truely skilled fine homebuilder, lol, especially if the base is going to be moved up a bit after the installation of the new floor. Be careful what you pry against...

4. 
   Davo_ | Feb 23, 2002 04:43am | #8

   *Everyone has given really good advice. Razor knives, putty knives, etc, all are very useful, and will get the job done.The only trick I'll add here is to cut some wedges from 2X4 stock. Cut the 2x4s into 8 inch legnths, and then bandsaw them on edge so to give you 2 wedges from this piece. After prying a corner of the base partially loose, pound a wedge behind the base at this location. Pound it pretty solid, this will help to loosen the base farther down the line, whereby you can place your next wedge and begin tapping it in place. After pounding this wedge into place, the first wedge will most likely have loosened, allowing you to pull this one out and use it again farther down the line.I like to use 4 wedges on a 10-12 ft run of base to "pop" it off the wall. Also, if you need to use your pry bars, use the wedge as a "backer" against the wall to prevent tearing up the wall with your bar.Always worked for me.Good luck. Just remember to go "slow & easy," you don't want to crack or split any of that base; it would ruin your whole day.Davo

5. 
   ken_hill | Feb 23, 2002 05:44am | #9

   *To avoid marring the wall, I use a piece of 1/4" ply or pergo to spread out the force. -Ken

6. 
   Phill_Giles | Feb 23, 2002 08:45am | #10

   *Good tip Davo, you can buy a few of those 6" or 8" poly mud spreaders (roughly a buck each) to stop the wedges from maring the wall too.

7. 
   r_ignacki_ | Feb 23, 2002 07:43pm | #11

   *Why not leave the base in place? Run some shoe mold.

2. 
   Not_Enough_Time | Feb 23, 2002 07:43pm | #12

   *
   I will be replacing carpet with wood flooring and would appreciate any advise on the effective removal of the baseboards. I plan to replace the molding after the flooring is installed, as such I need to remove it without damaging it (too much).
   Thanks N.E.T.