I need to remove a load bearing wall. I have just finished reading “Removing a Bearing Wall” (Fine Homebuilding, Dec 2002 Jan2003). The article describes shoring the ceiling on both sides of the wall to be removed, cutting the ends of the rafters over the bearing wall and then inserting a beam supported by 4X4 posts on both ends with the cut rafters then being fastened to the beam.
If the long beam 2X material can be gotten into the attic for construction of the beam in the attic, why not use 4X4 posts long enough to extend into the attic to a height flush with the top of the rafters, place the fabricated beam on top of the 4X4 posts at each end and then fasten all rafters to the beam with metal strapping?
That way there is no shoring both sides of the condemned wall, no chain saw cutting of rafter ends, no delicate placing of the beam, no concern about the possible lateral movement of the side wall. The condemned wall is simply removed after all rafters have been tied to the new overhead beam.
I am only an amateur builder/remodeler and expect there is a lot I am missing in my thought process.
Replies
It can be done
What you are describing can (and has) been done.
You will likely need an engineer to specify the size of the beam, and most importantly, the size and type of strapping.
Terry
That technique is OK if you have an unfinished attic where you don't mind having the big beam sitting proud of the floor.
Seems to me there is an article on doing exactly that in a Fine Home Building from years gone by as well. (And if not FHB, then Journal of Light Construction, . . . one of the two.
Len
Yes
That was described in an article in FHB from an author in NOLA area a few years ago
BTDT
I recently put a glu-lam beam in my attic, on top of the ceiling joists, and removed a bearing wall below. The height of the beam in the attic is not an issue as it's completely buried in cellulose insulation anyway. I used long-strap joist hangers that hang the joists and nail to the side of the beam. The only issue was getting the beam into the attic. It's way too long to turn sideways and stick up between the joists, so I had to punch a hole in the gable and use a drywall boom to slide it in.
As mentioned above, I didn't have to deal with shoring the ceiling and cutting the joists. And, since the joists are in tension, I didn't have to worry about transferring that tension through the beam. I made a gable louver to fill the hole, it needed more venting anyway.
If you need one more assurance: I also did this very thing to my house. In my case, new siding was planned anyway so we cut a hole in the gable end that was a convenient size and place. Slid in mini-lams which were fastened together (engineered of course) to make up a beam. I used simpson ties to hold up the ceiling joists. As construction goes, this operation was as easy and straightforward as they come.
I guess it's worth mentioning
that you have to punch holes in the ceiling in order to slip the joist hangers in.
In my case, the joists were lapped at the beam location, so I had to punch fairly big holes and use two hangers per, some of them double hangers.
Worth it, though.... I have a 28' clear span main living area that used to be three rooms.
On my house I used Simpson H2.5A clips to attach the ceiling joists to the beam. One per joist calculates as OK but the plan reviewer wanted two. So, two, it was. These clips are relatively easy to install using a palm nailer and don't require cutting holes into the sheetrock. My work was in an attic that is not used for storage.
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The engineer
gave me the option of using coil strap to support the joists, which I could have slid under them above the sheetrock without making holes if I wanted to go that route. He wanted metal under the joists, not just side connections. Since the ceiling already had a channel open from removing the bearing wall, I simply widened it enough to get the hangers in.
bearing wall
All mentioned methods will work
One other thing not to be overlooked:
On what are the 4x4 resting? You need solid support to foundation or other suitable bearing below
An engineer certification would be in order
reply to bearing wall removal
charlie chan,
The method you are describing is possible, but there are other factors to consider. These include span of the new beam, span of the rafters (ceiling joists?) framing into the new beam, any roof framing load to be supported by this new beam, proper bearing points below the new posts at each end of the new beam, etc. A structural engineer like myself (http://www.amdeseng.com) would consider all of these factors, as well as potential construction methods that might make the project easier. Your thought process is on the right track, as there is usually more than one way to do something! And in the case of removing a bearing wall, it all starts with determing how much load (dead load, live load, lateral load if any) the existing wall is supporting.
AMmike