Replies

1. 
   PhillGiles | May 07, 2007 03:40pm | #1

   I have this thing called a "putty chaser", goes on my router: it's okay on  table; not so okay for verticle work (maybe a smaller router would be better).  On standing windows, I can do as well with a sharp chisel.

    

   Phill Giles

   The Unionville Woodwright

2. 
   marv | May 07, 2007 03:45pm | #2

   Caution:  Glazing compound in old old houses contains asbestos.  I would not make it go airborne.

   You get out of life what you put into it......minus taxes.

   Marv

1. 
   RickD | May 07, 2007 06:10pm | #4

   Caution:  Glazing compound in old old houses contains asbestos.  I would not make it go airborne.

   That's way too general a statment - although asbestos has been used in glazing compound (not just in old houses, btw) it is not common enough that most window contractors worry about it. 

   I don't know that anyone in his/her right mind would ever sand glazing compound anyway, and the putty chaser is not going to throw up much dust.

   Lead, on the other hand, you should always worry about with repairing window glazing IMHO . . .

   Edited 5/7/2007 11:14 am ET by RickD

   Edited 5/7/2007 11:24 am ET by RickD

3. 
   Stuart | May 07, 2007 04:25pm | #3

   I use a heat gun to soften up the old putty, then it scrapes out pretty easily.  You have to be careful to not crack the glass from the heat, but since you're replacing broken panes that's not an issue.

4. 
   Island Angus | May 07, 2007 07:52pm | #5

   Thanks for the tips. Good point about the lead paint, these windows are probably twice my age. For the couple that I have to do I'll just stick with the chisel.

   Angus

1. 
   Ragnar17 | May 07, 2007 11:13pm | #6

   I've heard of people using a Fein Multimaster, but I've never tried it myself.

1. 
   caseyr | May 10, 2007 02:36am | #8

   Fein has a "show and tell" on its website about using the segmented saw blade to cut window putty. Haven't tried that blade for that purpose, but do use my Multimaster a lot. The segmented saw blades go for $34.00 each on Amazon, however.Edit: add website -
   http://www.feinus.com/multimaster/multimasterwindow.html

   Edited 5/9/2007 7:37 pm ET by CaseyR

1. 
   calvin | May 10, 2007 03:52am | #11

   The stiff scraper blade that is included in several (many) of their kits works well on glazing.  I would be hesitant to use the saw blade for fear of cutting into the sash.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.

   Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   http://www.quittintime.com/

    

1. 
   DanH | May 10, 2007 04:11am | #12

   Well, an advantage with the Multimaster is that you have very precise control over the cut. You only cut into the sash if you're being careless.
   So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin

2. 
   calvin | May 10, 2007 05:36am | #13

   You only cut into the sash if you're being careless.

   Don't believe everything you hear.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.

   Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   http://www.quittintime.com/

    

2. 
   DaveRicheson | May 09, 2007 09:51pm | #7

   Prazi also makes a putty chaser that fits in a drill. Works ok if adjusted correctly, and does not throw out a lot of light dust, just moderate and heavier chips. Watch out for those old glazing points, even if using a chisel.

    

   Dave

3. 
   Piffin | May 10, 2007 03:37am | #10

   no chisle.
   Putty knife 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

5. 
   Piffin | May 10, 2007 03:30am | #9

   heat gun.
   Be carefull not to overheat the glass itself

    

    

   Welcome to the
   Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
    where ...
   Excellence is its own reward!

6. 
   Dinosaur | May 10, 2007 06:10am | #14

   I've got a Prazi putty remover and find it's more trouble than worth. It slips easily and chews up the wood and doesn't make a clean cut.

   Instead, use a router. Break the glass out of the lites and make sure there's no bits of glass left in the groove between the putty and the sash. Then use a rabbetting bit to cut out the putty. You adjust the lateral depth of cut by using a guide bearing of the needed diameter. Square up the round corners with a chisel.

   Wear a face shield and gloves--the points may get launched and you might have missed a sliver of glass or two.

    

   If that won't work for you, get a remodeler's bar and use that to pry, shave, and scrape.

   Dinosaur

   DON'T MISS THE FEST!

    

   How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not brought
   low by this? For thine evil pales before that which
   foolish men call Justice....
   

   

7. 
   andybuildz | May 10, 2007 06:37am | #15

   I just did fifty gazillion windows last year and to me...the heat gun made it a snap and was the safest tool to use as long as you don't over heat the glass.No reason to over heat the glass unless you're really careless.

   I tried the putty chaser...what a piece a crap...lol.

    

   "Revolution is not something fixed in ideology, nor is it something fashioned to a particular decade. It is a perpetual process embedded in the human spirit."
   Abbie Hoffman

   http://WWW.CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM                                 

    
1. 
   Endymion | May 10, 2007 04:17pm | #17

   I used a plumbing torch instead of a heat gun. It works faster as long as you use an old drywall knife (8" is fine) to protect the glass from the direct heat. Otherwise you'll crack the glass. Make sure it's a knife you don't care about as it will warp some from the heat.

   When I did a house worth of windows, I was trying salvage all the old wavy glass I could. 

1. 
   andybuildz | May 10, 2007 04:36pm | #18

   Heat gun works pretty fast but I've used a torch as well on a rare occasion. thing about a torch is that if there's asbestos in the paint you'll be breathing it in which isn't so with a heat gun. Less dangerous too.

    

   "Revolution is not something fixed in ideology, nor is it something fashioned to a particular decade. It is a perpetual process embedded in the human spirit." Abbie Hoffman

   http://WWW.CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM                                 

    

1. 
   BryanSayer | May 10, 2007 04:46pm | #19

   I've heard a couple of people rave about using an infared heat plate (silent paint remover) for galzing compound. They say less heating up of the glass.But I haven't tried it myself.

1. 
   MikeK | May 12, 2007 05:22am | #20

   I have a silent paint remover, but I have not tried removing putty on windows yet. Since it uses Infrared rays instead of hot blown air it may work, if the IR rays go through the glass.

2. 
   DanH | May 12, 2007 06:42am | #21

   There are several reasons why I've not done any serious reglazing for over 30 years, one being that back when I was doing that (on an old farmhouse) I found that every window was different.I'd start on a window using the glazing compound removal technique of the previous window and quickly discover that it wasn't working. Then I'd try two or three other things, and, when I was down to the last couple of lites, find something that seemed to work. "Aha!" I'd tell myself, "This is how you remove glazing compound." Then the next window would prove me wrong.
   So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin

3. 
   ANDYSZ2 | May 12, 2007 04:13pm | #22

   I have a cheap Ryobi electric carving chisel with an assortment of blade attachments that works well but will still break panes.

   I think the next windows I do I am going to try moistening the glazing with some linseed oil then use the heat gun in conjunction with the electric chisel.

   ANDYSZ2WHY DO I HAVE TO EXPLAIN TO FRIENDS AND FAMILY THAT BEING A SOLE PROPRIETOR IS A REAL JOB?

   REMODELER/PUNCHOUT SPECIALIST

    

4. 
   abnorm | May 13, 2007 01:54am | #23

   Ever seen the Steam Removal promoted by John Leeke........Looks pretty darn good.........http://historichomeworks.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=133

5. 
   kate | May 15, 2007 12:42am | #25

   Brilliant!  Thanks for that link!  I still have about 12 windows left to do.

6. 
   BryanSayer | May 14, 2007 09:07pm | #24

   Ummm... wrong side of the window. You don't neet to pass the IR rays through the glass, just heat the glazing compound. I haven't tried it myself, I've just heard good things from others.

7. 
   MikeK | May 16, 2007 08:37am | #26

   Bryan,

   I did not intend to suggest heating the putty from the opposite side of the glass. I was trying to suggest that some of the IR rays can travel through the glass without heating the glass. Perhaps this will allow the glass to stay cool enough not to break. Much in the same manner as sunshine travels through the glass. Sorry for the confusion.

    

   Mike K

   Aurora, IL

    

8. 
   BryanSayer | May 17, 2007 05:27am | #29

   Ok, now I get it. One thing to keep in mind with any form of 'wave' heat is that even though it doesn't heat the 'container' the heat still conducts from whatever it does heat. It always bugs me that they don't mention that on microwave containers. "Won't heat up in the microwave!" Sure, but the soup gets hot and conducts that heat to the pan!

9. 
   rasher | May 17, 2007 06:07am | #30

   I think everyone's thinking this through way too much. I've done dozens and the only thing I need is a heat gun and a 5-in-1 tool. I've never overheated (and broken) the glass, just keep the gun moving and the knife working and it'll come off no problem.Sometimes I think this forum is sponsored by Multimaster. I bought one of those POSes explicitly for removing glazing and it was harder to control, easier to break the glass and/or screw up the sash, messier, and slower than my ancient heat gun and knife technique.

8. 
   oldfred | May 10, 2007 03:34pm | #16

   I have an older version of this.  Works well.   

   I'd definitely only use it outside.

   http://www.crlaurence.com/ProductPages/4/4500_5833.html?Origin=

9. 
   Ray | May 16, 2007 08:31pm | #27

   My wife has a little steamer for cleaning tile, brick etc.  A jet of live steam on the putty softens it pretty well and it can be scraped out, but it's a slow process to remove a big window.

10. 
    notascrename | May 17, 2007 12:19am | #28

    I use a butane pencil torch to soften the putty. flame is small enough to keep it just on the putty, but hot enough to soften it right up. Jim