Replies

1. 
   4Lorn1 | Jul 02, 2002 04:13am | #1

   Check the packaging for the glue used, assuming it is not polyurethane, there should be a suggested solvent for removing the dry product from tools, etc. I have had luck soaking absorbent material, rags or paper towels, in the solvent and allowing them to sit on the offending overflow for a day or so. Mineral spirits will usually not evaporate fast enough to have to rewet the poultice but acetone is best covered with foil to limit evaporation and fumes. Most other solvent fall somewhere in between.

   Use appropriate precautions with ignition sources, ventilation and protective equipment. Setting fire to the house or poisoning yourself would not be the preferred method, IMHO, of removing the excess material.

1. 
   Paularado | Jul 03, 2002 12:31am | #2

   I think it may be polyurethane based on what I found. I called our lumberyard and they told me we used PL 400 by OSI Sealants. The OSI page describes its PL products the following way:

   " The PL¯ Polyurethane Adhesives and Sealants brand is

   widely recognized to be the most technologically advanced

   product line available. In fact, these premium job-specific

   polyurethane products are designed for use in a wide varity

   of applications on new construction and remodeling. "

   So, I don't know what that means. I will call OSI tomorrow. I just missed them. Right now I'm using pliers, chisel, screwdriver, and utility knife to remove the glue. Maybe that's as good as it gets.

   What happened to the second post in this thread? It was there this morning. OH well.

   Thanks!!!

1. 
   4Lorn1 | Jul 03, 2002 05:19am | #3

   Does the excess look like tight cell foam? My understanding and limited experience, with Gorilla Glue and PLPremium, is that all of these glues foam up and expand as they harden. If it is not the consistency similar to isocyanurate foam boards it might not be polyurethane. If it is pliable, hard to cut or rubbery it is unlikely to be poly.

   This would be good news. Most non-poly construction adhesives can be softened with a solvent. Check with the contractor about the brand and type used to determine the solvent to use. Barring this you might try mineral spirits for 24 hrs and see if it softens the mess. If not move up to stronger solvents. The weaker stuff is usually safer and less likely to damage things. Try to find one that will soften but not overly dissolve the glue. Dissolving it can spread it and make the problem larger. Liquid Nails was easy to scrape off after exposure to mineral spirits for 24 hrs and came off in a large rubbery mass when persuaded with a paint scraper.

   I have asked around and have found no solvents, or even rumors of one, for hardened polyurethane. Once set up the only solution seems to be BFI (Brute Force and Ignorance). I find a good, sharp, long handled hook scraper used on the pull stroke and a razor scraper to be the most productive tools for me. I was removing excess poly from a wood working project so you may have to experiment to find what works for you. 

1. 
   FrankB89 | Jul 03, 2002 07:18am | #4

   Spending $150 or so on a Fein Multi-tool might be a good investment if there's much of this to do.  The little putty removing blade works like a charm on even really tough stuff...and no, I don't sell the things or own stock. 

2. 
   DavidxDoud | Jul 03, 2002 07:34am | #5

   an alternative strategy that might be worth exploring is mechanical removal of the glue at low temperature - sometimes residues that are gummy/gooey are brittle and scrape cleanly and relatively easily at low temps - pack enough ice against an area to chill it and see how it works - it would be a more pleasant job in november anyway - good luck,  DOUD

2. 
   GregAlbright | Jul 03, 2002 08:39am | #6

   I've removed plenty of sap pockets with a plunge router and a plug. If it gets any sun, these pockets will continue to bleed for years. It diminishes over time, so maybe you can get used to the natural feel of the stuff.

1. 
   Paularado | Jul 03, 2002 10:53pm | #7

   Thanks for all the additional suggestions. The glue is kind of gummy, so maybe it isn't a poly glue. I should call OSI Sealants, just been busy. Also, I was thinking about trying some sort of hook thing to get deep into that log corner.

   I like the ice idea and of course, tools are always fun to collect as well. I hope to report back on Monday about my success.

   Happy 4th!

   Paula in smokey (cough cough gag) Colorado.

1. 
   Piffin | Jul 05, 2002 06:28am | #8

   PL Premium is their polyurethene construction adhesive.

   The PL400 is a standard structural glue much like liquid nails and used for lots of interior jobs. Since yours is still soft and they told you it was the 400, I believe it is. The PL Premium hardens up more quickly and I've never seen it foam. I'm guessing that your ooze is from pressure of logs settling putting a lot of weight on the joint and squeezing it out.

   Their PL200 is thinner and better for sheet goods lioke panels or sheetrock. The PL300 is, I think, the one for foam because it is less volatile and won't be as likely to chemically melt the foam.

   I would plan to use a sharp knife and scraping chisles to remove this excess. Solvents would cause it to bleed into the wood grain and stain it deeper and permanently if they even worked. The right technique with a sharp chisle and maybe a little patience will turn the trick.

   Excellence is its own reward!

3. 
   jet | Jul 05, 2002 07:13am | #9

   For your second question, are you painting the wood? If yes, then try painting with "Tremclad" aluminium paint first to seal the knots. One coat primer then two coats color finish. This has worked for me both on interior and exterior surfaces.

   Don't get mad, get a bigger hammer!