*
Does anyone have a way of removing oak flooring? The house was built in the late ’40s, and is being torn down. I have been given all material that I can remove before demolition. I would like to save as much of this floor as possible.
Discussion Forum
Discussion Forum
Up Next
Video Shorts
Featured Story
Prescriptive codes don't address the connection at less common angles, so base the connection off more typical ones using bolts, structural screws, blocking, and steel tension ties.
Highlights
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Replies
*
3/4"? Blind nailed with what kind of nail? Pretty much try all the methods that have worked in the past, maybe come up with a new one. Work in the opposite direction it was put down. You'll lose a cpl of runs till you can get enough room to get at the nails. There is an antique nail puller with a slide handle that has worked when all else failed. That mainly on cut nails. Have also cut the nails off with a sawsall. On occasion prying the flooring up and pulling the nails later has worked. Get every pry bar available and take your time. Work board end to end. I don't know what else to tell you. That kind of job is a whole lot about trial and error. Best of luck.
*Did it once on a small floor, too old to think about it tying it again I used a lot of long hardwood shimms I made (hard maple) with a fairly low "pitch" about 3" over 2 feet if I recall.I started in the middle; tore out a couple of rows. Used my flat bar to lift the exposed edges enough to get the shims started under (about every 16" --Caution, senior memory slipaage ahead ) and walked back and forth, "tapping" them in sequence with a sledge. (Never could hit a two iron after that! Of course, I couldn't hit a two iron before that experience, either In fact, if you're on the golf course when a thunder storm hits, take your 2 iron and hold it above your head for safety. Even God himself can't hit a 2 iron!)It was a lot of work; a lot of wood split; and a lot got gouged by the nails left in until I started pulling 'em with each row lifted.
*Thanks will try both methods next weekend. See which one works out best.
*I recently pulled some of the thin (5/16") stuff from my 1926 house. The method I use is pretty much what's been described, except that I try to get two strips partially pulled up at once, to minimize the amount of bending that has to happen at each tongue and groove joint. Strong putty knives and flat bars to work the boards upward until you can pull one away, then the one that's left becomes the next one, and you work all the way under it to start the third one before the second gets loose enough to pull. I took pictures of the whole operation with my digital camera, perhaps I'll take the time to post them some day.-- J.S.
*I would try a shingle eater shovel. You will lose alittle material getting going but with gentle hands you can get the nails popped safely