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Discussion Forum

Removing old bathroom waal tiles

bobbylonghare | Posted in General Discussion on July 17, 2005 04:09am

Greetings Breaktime. My name is Bobby and spend my time at Knots. I have a house built in the early fifties and it is time to fix up the bathroom. There is some ugly vertical wainscoat that has been glued to the original tile. The wood comes off ok but the tile underneath has been damaged and is a mess with the glue. I tried removeing some of this old pink tile and it is not coming off very easy. Sure I can get a bigger hammer but I’m hoping somebody can give me a technique that will make the job a little easier.
Thanks
Bobby

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Replies

  1. Dave45 | Jul 17, 2005 04:14pm | #1

    Are you planning on removing all the tile - or just the damaged ones?

  2. WayneL5 | Jul 17, 2005 04:28pm | #2

    I'm assuming since they are pink you want to take them all off?  It is better just to rip out the wallboard and start over. 

  3. DanT | Jul 17, 2005 05:37pm | #3

    I second the rip out the wall board.  We just cut right at the top of the tile with a recip saw. Put new board in and finish.  If plaster we chip the tile off and lay 1/4 board over it all.  DanT

    1. steve | Jul 17, 2005 05:47pm | #4

      ditto on removing the wall board plaster and all, right to the top of the tile, among other things it'll allow you to change the tub and upgrade the faucet

      shim out the new wallboard flush with the old plaster and retile

      do not use drywall in the tub area, green or white, use a proper tile backercaulking is not a piece of trim

  4. paule38 | Jul 17, 2005 05:49pm | #5

    cut across the top of the tile and remove wall board down to the studs, then start from scratch.....

    If you aren't one of the one's I'm talking about,you shouldn't have any complaints....

  5. Stuart | Jul 17, 2005 05:53pm | #6

    Is there just wallboard behind the tile, or is it set in a mortar bed?

  6. piko | Jul 17, 2005 06:02pm | #7

    I'm assuming that you don't like the pink tile either? You do? Hmmmph...this'll be tricky. Try solvents to melt the adhesive, then clean with mineral spirits (might kill 2 birds...) and TSP. May have to use lots of elbow grease.

    Of course, with a 50y/o house you'll NEED to take the tile AND the drywall off....all sorts of nasties lurk there. Cut an outline around the area you want to re-tile, then wale in with the big hammer. (Nice to get physical once in a while). Once everything is removed, check and replace as necessary: 

    the insulation - This might be non-existant, so get the appro'd stuff.

    Vapour barrier - ditto, tho may be pointless unless whole room is done.

    Studs - often black or powdery, depending on water and/or insect damage. Remove and replace (or 'sister-up') as red'q. While the wall is open nail in some blocking for future grab-bars (say 2x4s att'd vertically beside studs where yuo'r likely to need assistance getting in or out, and horizontally for a bar to help you get up). Throw some borax down between the studs to deter bugs, too.

    Plumbing - any leaks, corrosion, etc? Want to replace the mixer valve, nows the time. Call a plumber if you have to  - but they charge more than software developers even!

    Ready to replace? First tack #15 felt onto the studs. Make a nice sharp bend at the internal angle. Then a cementitious backer board (hardi-backer, eg) screwed to the studs (to cut, make several passes with a utility knife and snap), leaving a small gap between tub and board. Some people now waterproof the gaps between boards with mesh and thinset - if you want it to last another 50 years, do so. So-o-o, now you can start to re-tile, and this is fun. Choose a tile that will not 'date', or that will not make you say ouch in 10 yrs time. Floral are passe these days, so are 8x12s. A nice unassuming tile will look good for many a year (after all, you don't want to re-do all this in 10 years, eh). Attach the tiles to the wall using a latex mastic - or thinset if you feel up to it. You can leave the spaces uniform either by eye, or with plastc tile spacers. Grout after at least 24hrs., let dry for at least a week, then give 3 coats of the very best sealer you can buy. Attach grab bars, face plates, shower rail and drapes, etc. Sometimes those little plastic triangular dams can be used in the o/s corners of the tub if you've kids likely to forget to pull the shower-curtain all the way across. Or tenants.

    When all is done pour in nice hot water, light a candle, and sip some wine ... especially with someone special!

    ciao for niao

    To those who know - this may be obvious. To those who don't - I hope I've helped.

     

    1. bobbylonghare | Jul 17, 2005 09:33pm | #8

      Thanks everybody. I'm borrowing my brothers recip. saw and its down to the studs. A complete replacement should be eaiser than peicemeal.
      Bobby

      1. FastEddie1 | Jul 17, 2005 10:27pm | #9

        There's a trick to using a recip saw to remove wall material without cutting the studs, electrical wires, or pipes.  Snap off a blade so that it extends only about 3/4" past the end of the shoe at the longest stroke, then just run it along the wall like you normally would.  You will be, in effect, stitching the wall board and it will come off very easily.

         I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.

        1. User avater
          Nuke | Jul 19, 2005 07:36pm | #10

          Ed, this is an interesting technique you have given Bobby. I might want to try that myself. Curious ... I have a cheap Ryobi (sp) recip saw that I bought three years ago as a disposable tool. Still have it and it works. How does one safely 'snap' a blade?

          Yeah, I did imagine the WCS (Worse Case Scenario), and it involved blood, lots of it, fingers being stitched back on, etc., so I take it you probably have done this enough times to have played the guiney pig in technique-development. lol

          Also, what happens if you snap off and find yourself actually on the short-stroke? Can one snip-off slightly excessive portions of a blade?

          1. FastEddie1 | Jul 19, 2005 10:24pm | #12

            Nuke & Snow ... it's really quite simple, and a trick I learned from an old FHB back issue. 

            First you need to determine where the limit of the extension stroke is.  Put a blade in the saw ... a worn blade works well, and fine teeth make a little less dust.  Run the saw very slowly while holding a sharpie or even a pencil against the blade, right where it exits the shoe.  After a stroke or two you have made a line on the blade.  Turn off the saw  :)  It helps to remove the blade, but it's not necessary.  Grip the blade about 5/8 to 3/4" past the end of the line with vice grips or lineman pliers, and snap the end off with another set of pliers.  It snaps easily and usually doesn't cause a hazard when it pops, but snap away from your face just for luck.

            Put the blade back in the saw and start stitching the wall.  It will bump a little when you go over a stud, but otherwise will go rather smoothly.  I usually make squares about 16-24" on a side so they will be easy to handle.  I try to snap about 3/4" long so it will cut even if the saw is angled, but that length is still way short enough to miss all the guts of the wall.  Anything longer than that will bump harder on the studs, but will still miss the guts.

             I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.

        2. csnow | Jul 19, 2005 09:34pm | #11

          "There's a trick to using a recip saw to remove wall material without cutting the studs, electrical wires, or pipes.  Snap off a blade so that it extends only about 3/4" past the end of the shoe at the longest stroke, then just run it along the wall like you normally would.  You will be, in effect, stitching the wall board and it will come off very easily."

          Interesting technique.  Do snap it at an angle or just square?

        3. User avater
          CapnMac | Jul 19, 2005 11:53pm | #13

          using a recip saw to remove wall material without cutting the studs

          Hmm, I've just used a cut-off wheel or masonry blade in a beater circular saw.Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)

          1. FastEddie1 | Jul 20, 2005 04:19am | #14

            I bet my way makes less dust.

             I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.

          2. ChrisB | Jul 20, 2005 04:46am | #15

            Just one minor suggestion: Make the plunge cut before snapping off the blade. The longer the blade, the closer it is to parallel to the wall and the easier the plunge cut will be.

            Trying to make the plunge cut with a blade 3/4" long, will be about as smooth as using a jack hammer.

            Chris

          3. User avater
            CapnMac | Jul 20, 2005 04:37pm | #16

            my way makes less dust

            Yeah right <g>; less dust in any demolition <g>.  Especially in a tile demo.

            I just used the tools in the box, and the beater saw would get grabbed before the then barnd new sawzall . . . Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)

          4. DanH | Jul 20, 2005 06:18pm | #17

            Just cutting through with a utility knife makes less dust still, and will work fine in most cases. By the time you've dug out the sawzall, found an old blade, chucked it up and snapped it off, you can be done with the utility knife. Essentially zero danger of damaging studs or wiring.

          5. FastEddie1 | Jul 20, 2005 07:47pm | #18

            Yep.  Except that sheetrock dulls the blade quickly and it takes muscles to cut all the way through the rock with a knife blade.  I keep one or two stubbies in the sawzall case.  And the length is not critical ... just snap off the blade so it's short, and have at it.

            Now, I will admit that for cutting a few holes the knife is the way to go, or a hand saw.  But when you need to demo whole rooms, that's different.

             I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.

          6. paule38 | Jul 20, 2005 07:57pm | #19

            For the small amount of footage we're talking about...has anyone on here mentioned just a regular old drywall keyhole type saw?  It may be slower but you can feel anything out of the ordinary............and all it takes is some elbow grease, no electricity or batteries required.....If you aren't one of the one's I'm talking about,you shouldn't have any complaints....

          7. FastEddie1 | Jul 20, 2005 09:47pm | #20

            That's a good idea, but if the saw has any teeth at all, all it takes is a good yank on the pull stroke to snag romex and tear the insulation.  Been there, done that.

             I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.

          8. bobbylonghare | Jul 21, 2005 02:59pm | #21

            This little project of mine took an interesting turn last nite. Underneath the tile is concrete sheet, not drywall.Bobby

            Edited 7/21/2005 8:00 am ET by bobbylonghare

          9. DanH | Jul 21, 2005 04:44pm | #22

            You're gonna need more sawzall blades.

          10. User avater
            CapnMac | Jul 21, 2005 04:57pm | #24

            gonna need more sawzall blades

            I'm thinking he'll need one of those "parking lot" sales, where he could get some 10 for $10 "masonary" blades from the PRC.

            Good place to find a brand new, $35, beater circular saw for them, too <g>Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)

          11. User avater
            CapnMac | Jul 21, 2005 04:54pm | #23

            Underneath the tile is concrete sheet, not drywall

            Wow, cool, that's what's supposed to be there.

            If it's in any sort of reasonably good shape, you might (only might) be better off, just lifting the tiles in rows.  Or not.  Tile can be like that.Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)

          12. jet | Jul 22, 2005 12:17am | #25

            Just ripped a bathroom last week.  40 years old! took a 10 yard container for the garbage. 1 to 1 1/2 inches of cement with wire lath in it.

            Might have another down the street next month. same style."Sir! You are drunk!"

            "Madam! You are ugly, and tomorrow I shall be sober!!"  Winston Churchill

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