Replies

1. 
   webted | Mar 19, 2009 10:35pm | #1

   My first pass is to try to get surface stuff physically. Scraper, chisel, etc... can sometimes get enough to where the rest isn't that noticable. Follow that up with light steel wool and wax as a lube.

   If you have to bust out the solvents, you're probably going to be stuck doing some "restoration" work to the underlying finish. That's a whole 'nother kettle of fish.

   Pix might help. What is the finish you're trying to preserve?

   -t

1. 
   dockelly | Mar 19, 2009 10:56pm | #2

   no finish really, just the effects of time. probably will end up sanding and applying oil as finish, get it as close to color of legs as possible.

2. 
   dockelly | Mar 20, 2009 01:45am | #6

   here are some pics, table is on its side.

1. 
   webted | Mar 20, 2009 04:55am | #8

   Ouch. Yeah, that's not exactly what I had pictured... I thought you were talking little overspray or a handful of specs here and there...My order of attack would be1. isopropyl alcohol directly on the heaviest paint patches, and some aggressive elbow grease via cloth rags - you could get lucky...2. commercial non-NMP, non-Methylene Chloride paint removers (goof off, graffiti off, etc..)although I also have my doubts here...3. mix a little acetone in with the isopropanol 4. mineral spirits 5. commercial stripping agent, plastic spatula/scrapers (just cover the paint affected areas with the agent, then cover that with plastic, leave it for 2 - 4 hours, then start scraping & wiping)I think you'll find that most of your character is found in the deep gouges and dings that have . As long as you don't aggressively sand down to bare wood, you'll probably be pretty happy with the look after you recoat with oil. You'll end up with a bit of the "Frankenstein" look (oiled wood here, old varnish/shellac/lacquer patches there) but I think it'll fit in with the look you want.

1. 
   dockelly | Mar 20, 2009 05:12am | #9

   Thanks!

1. 
   Jer | Mar 20, 2009 05:24am | #10

   No mechanical devices like scrapers or sand paper. Test!

   Try a diluted stripper solution (you can use methyl-chloride...but dilute it),let it work VERY briefly dipped in with unraveled #00 steel wool. Don't rub it around, do a 'pick up' motion with the steel wool and use a clean face of wool every time. Now wash it gently off with #0000 steel wool and mineral spirits. Get enough of the paint off to satisfy you.
   3 coats Linseed oil (boiled) and paste wax (if you want).It's got a good patina that really could be great!

2. 
   dockelly | Mar 20, 2009 06:34am | #11

   Thanks Jer, your 2nd round of golf is coming up.  Hope it's as much fun as the first.

2. 
   Dave45 | Mar 20, 2009 12:54am | #3

   Try some Goof Off or something like it. Whatever you do, don't use any mechanical methods (scraping, sanding, etc) until you've exhausted the less agressive methods. One slip with a scraper, and you have a "new wood" gouge to deal with.

1. 
   DonCanDo | Mar 20, 2009 01:06am | #4

   Goof off is for dried latex.  It's worth a shot (try an inconspicuous area first), but I don't think it's going to remove spray paint overspray which is most likely oil or lacquer based.

   Lacquer thinner will remove, or at least dilute, any dried paint, but it WILL affect the finish if there is one.

3. 
   k1c | Mar 20, 2009 01:45am | #5

   I would strip the table without sanding the wood. Not sanding would keep some of the wood's patina. When stripping use steel wool to gently remove the stripper and use papertowel to wipe. Don't rinse with water or any other chemical. Don't leave it out in the sun. It would bleach the patina. Use stripper that does not rinsing.
   I don't think you can remove the paint without drastically changing the finish and I can't think of the spray paint as a character.
   If you want the aged look, you might try ember shellac. Try googling veneer for stores that sell furniture finishing material. I can't remember the name but there is a chemical that will gray the wood. Good luck.

1. 
   dockelly | Mar 20, 2009 01:52am | #7

   check out the pics, and comment. Got the feeling all posting in response think this table is in far better condition, probably my fault in not posting pics initially.

1. 
   dockelly | Mar 21, 2009 03:35am | #15

   Just had a thought, didn't see it mentioned as an option. What about a heat gun?

1. 
   brucet9 | Mar 21, 2009 08:50am | #16

   Can a heat gun tell the difference between the spray paint and the varnish beneath it?BruceT

2. 
   k1c | Mar 25, 2009 08:45pm | #21

   The table is in bad shape. Are those black spots burns or spilled stain? I myself am not a preservationist for all things, so I would strip the whole thing, lightly sand the surface and finish with water urethane. It will age again and oil urethane will age faster. I prefer the water base because I don't have to watch the timing with water-base so much. It is a found object and not a heirloom piece so not taking it so seriously may be one way to go. Good luck.

1. 
   dockelly | Mar 25, 2009 09:48pm | #22

   I won't take it to seriously, anything would be an improvement.  More excited about the dimensions than the look, but will try to improve it just the same.

2. 
   Ted W. | Mar 26, 2009 01:16am | #23

   I'm with k1c on this one. But then, I'm one to enjoy the destination more than the journey. If you enjoy the challenge, learning more about solvents and finishes, and if you have more time than things to do.. get a bunch of chemicals and see which ones remove which paints or stains. But if you're like me, and just want to enjoy the table, get some good ol' fashioned paint stripper strip the top down to the raw wood.

   Conversely, I wouldn't touch that nice, rustic wood, with all it's character, with a scraper or sand paper. Just strip it with your preferred methylene based stripper and steel wool, rinse it with alcohol and more steel wool, and apply the new finish. Then you have there a beautiful table without making a career of it. Then you can invite all of us to big feast you'll be serving on it.

   Peace! =)

   ~ Ted W ~

   Cheap Tools - BuildersTools.netSee my work - TedsCarpentry.com

   Edited 3/25/2009 6:17 pm by Ted W.

1. 
   dockelly | Apr 04, 2009 09:30pm | #24

   I think it's got to many raw spots already to try and save original finish. There are places without any varnish, raw wood. I'll probably come up with some happy medium, I enjoy the work, but it's really a time thing. Quicker would be better.

2. 
   Dam_inspector | Apr 05, 2009 01:14am | #25

   Sandblast it then run a propane torch over it to blacken the raised grain.Kidding...

3. 
   Ted W. | Apr 05, 2009 01:30am | #26

   What, you're still working on that? I was waiting on photos of the finished table. =)

   ~ Ted W ~

   Cheap Tools! - MyToolbox.netSee my work - TedsCarpentry.com

   Edited 4/4/2009 6:31 pm by Ted W.

4. 
   dockelly | Apr 05, 2009 01:57am | #27

   Buddy, If only I had the time for all my projects. 

   I bought a bunch of brick off craigslist to veneer the new concrete foundation at my beachhouse.  When I showed it to a buddy working with me for the day, and explained my intentions for the huge pile of brick, he very profoundly asked how long I thought I was going to live.

   Opptomistic to a fault.

    

   Kevin

5. 
   Ted W. | Apr 05, 2009 03:53am | #28

   Well, you won't ever get bored. =)

   I too, tend to put too many projects on my to-do list - way more than I can ever get done in reasonable time. I think over-enthusiasm trumps under-enthusiasm any time.

   I think the table is an outdoor project anyway, at least if you use the noxious methylene base stripper as I would. And looks like weather in your area is not permitting. But I still look forward to seeing that table when it's done. That thing is awesome.

   ~ Ted W ~

   Cheap Tools! - MyToolbox.netMeet me at House & Builder!

   Edited 4/4/2009 8:53 pm by Ted W.

   Edited 4/12/2009 11:16 pm by Ted W.

6. 
   dockelly | Apr 05, 2009 05:17am | #29

   Hey Ted,

   Just checked your profile, I went to chiro school in Lombard.  Bartended through college, my last job in Chicago was at the Snuggery on Division st.  It later changed name to the Alumni club, I tink.  Love that town. 

   I'll be sure to post pics of the finished table, it is pretty cool.

   Kevin

7. 
   Ted W. | Apr 05, 2009 06:38am | #30

   Yeah, it's a great place to live as big cities go. I love all the old buildings we have here.

   ~ Ted W ~

   Cheap Tools! - MyToolbox.netMeet me at House & Builder!

   Edited 4/12/2009 11:21 pm by Ted W.

4. 
   brucet9 | Mar 20, 2009 08:15am | #12

   My thoughts would be similar to webted, but in different order:

   1. mineral spirits. It's the least aggressive solvent and has some lubricity. Use 0000 steel wool to lightly scrub; work up to as coarse as 0 if necessary, but gently.

   2. isopropyl alcohol or ethyl alcohol directly on the heaviest paint patches, with cloth rags, 0000 steel wool.

   3. xylene. Stronger solvent than mineral spirits, but way less aggressive than acetone. May affect varnish, so test in an inconspicuous place to be sure it won't wrinkle up the old varnish.

   4. commercial non-NMP, non-Methylene Chloride paint removers (goof off, graffiti off, etc..)although I also have my doubts here...

   5. mix a little acetone or MEK in with the isopropanol or use cheap lacquer thinner. Wipe gently with soft cloth first, move up to 0000 steel wool if necessary.

   6. commercial stripping agent, plastic spatula/scrapers (just cover the paint affected areas with the agent, then cover that with plastic, leave it for 2 - 4 hours, then start scraping & wiping)

   Good luck

   BruceT
1. 
   wane | Mar 20, 2009 04:04pm | #13

   can you flip the top, how's the bottom look?

1. 
   dockelly | Mar 20, 2009 08:14pm | #14

   I had thought of that, but all the nicks and dings that add character are on the top.

5. 
   Sphere | Mar 21, 2009 04:28pm | #17

   After reading all the replies, I'd agree with most. But it comes down to a few things..like what is your final expectation of looks, I.E. HOW much "patina" do you wish to save? And what you call patina, some call grunge and vice versa.

   Also the end use may affect your choice of weaponry..don't do anything that will preclude or hamper a future top coat, like spot stripping and failing to nuetralize the stripper adequately in saving the surrounding area.

   I recently mad two tables from a large ( almost the same size you have) slaughter table..it had been covered in sheetmetal, but fat , lard and blood had saturated the oak below. In finishing, I had to use a compatible finish with the fat...so oil was my choice. They also are now 2 kitchen tables, kids, spills..farmhouse type use..again, a good use for OB Poly.

   For me, with a table like yours, I woulkd first attempt some of the others ideas, but my choice really falls on the final look desired, I may just use BRIWAX , the tolulene or tolulol maight just soften the paint enough to slough off.

   I might just belt sand the whole thing and RE-patinize it, with various ways of distressing..a good finisher ( I do include myself in that) can make that look 100yrs old, but still sanitary enough to eat off of. Patina is a widely used word in old work, but it can be created if ya have the right understanding...

   complex? can be..easy? can be. It's knowing what ya want to achieve , and what ya got at your disposal.

   Hate to say it, but you gotta experiment and see where ya go..if ya don't like it, you can take it down more, and build it back up.

   Its a call only the hands on guy can make, not something that is easily called out over the internet or telephone or a magazine.

   Line out your arsenal, have at it, gather a new arsenal of goodies that you copy or accentuate with, and like a painter, fool the eye..but unlike a painter you need to fool the touch as well. It can be done, and is done more often than many folks know. Just have fun with it.

   Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations

    

   They kill Prophets, for Profits.

    

    

1. 
   DavidxDoud | Mar 21, 2009 05:24pm | #18

   OK, I'm going to kinda disagree with some here - I consider this mostly a job for mechanical removal - It appears to me that there is a thin clear finish on the naked wood - that's what you are aiming to clean and save - first a good wash with warm water and brushes - a moderate bristle scrub brush and then a fine brass bristled brush - looks like there might actually be some spackle there - that would come right off - if you're lucky a fair amount of the white and gray might come off to - you can work on the gray pretty aggressively with the brass brush, since the surface you want is underneath - just don't work spots so hard that you abrade thru the clear- then get a variety of scrapers - you'll want mostly small tools that you can pick at the spots of white - work with the scraper edge vertical to the table - with the right pressure most of the white drips/splotts will pop right off - the gray is a bit tougher, likely - scrape the heavy splotts and work with various brushes and scrapers and see if you can get it to separate from the clear - I wouldn't be scared to use autobody paper (wet sand) - probably 240 or 320 or 360 to gently abrade the gray away - an enlightened touch is call for - at the end of the process you have the gray/white removed, let the table dry thoroughly and evaluate - at this point, it's a matter of blending - if you have pronounced light spots where you've lost the original clear finish, a tinted clear can blend it - conversely, you can wet sand the whole top till it's all the strata and then a light clear coat on that - you will not have to worry about losing all the 'patina' - there are plenty of cuts, scrapes, gouges, and stains that you are not going to remove using any of the aforementioned techniques - a good project - as rough as it is, I wouldn't be scared of being aggressive with wire brushes (be extremely careful with rotary power ones so as not to abrade the wood) - and be careful with any sandpaper and edges - you can really highlight an edge if you sand it -"there's enough for everyone"

6. 
   ANDYSZ2 | Mar 21, 2009 07:58pm | #19

   Man all these suggestions are too much like work.

   Just buy a red checkered table cloth and be done with it. {:~)

   ANDYSZ2

   WHY DO I HAVE TO EXPLAIN TO FRIENDS AND FAMILY THAT BEING A SOLE PROPRIETOR IS A REAL JOB?

   REMODELER/PUNCHOUT SPECIALIST

    

1. 
   dockelly | Mar 22, 2009 12:35am | #20

   LMAO

    

   Just got back from a 9-5 scout leader training class, needed a laugh, thanks.