I’ve redone our bedroom, and the walls are now 5/8″ thicker than they were before due to a new shearwall and thicker drywall. The carpet was originally installed up to the edges of the old base trim, which had gone down to the old tile.
My first question is this: Do I need to move the existing tack strips away from the walls, or should it all even out since the tack strips were put in spaced away from the wall by the old trim? Is there a rule of thumb about tack strip distance from the wall?
I’m also installing a new big bi-fold door (2 8′ panels, each 30″) for the closet. The folding door hardware is by Johnson. This is the bottom bracket where the door pivots:
It’s about 1/2″ tall and three inches long… other than this piece there are no other bottom track parts. The carpet is about 1/2″ thick, as is the pad is also 1/2″ thick. It’s designed to give 2 axis of adjustment after it is mounted.
My second question is this: Should this mount on top of the carpet, on a spacer from the floor, or should it be mounted on the floor with a small opening for the pivot only… or some other way?
This house was built in 1960. The 1st floor is asbestos tile and asbestos black mastic. No plans for hardwood or tile in the future, just carpet.
My third question is this: Should I remove all the tile and mastic before I replace the padding and carpet again? I can’t think of a good reason why yet since it’s unlikely to be disturbed in the forseable future. I do have all needed gear, tools, and chemicals to safely remove it, BTW.
Lastly, I have the carpet in a roll on the back patio at the moment. It’s got some stubborn stains on it, no idea what they are but it was probably me who tracked them in. Carpet is a beige,cream color. Any ideas for cleaning it now? Obviously I can use alot more water now that I can dry both sides!
Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
Edited 3/19/2007 1:51 pm ET by xxPaulCPxx
Replies
Just had a moment to clean the carpet... Simple Green and a quick blast with the garden hose has worked wonders - sucked out the moisture with a Bissel Green Machine.
Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
The trackless strip is spaced from the wall so the carpet can be tucked under the base. if you can install the carpet properly as-is, no reason to move the strip.
I would put a small block under the pivot, at least the thickness of the pad.
"Put your creed in your deed." Emerson
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
I would leave the asbestos alone. Unless you are licking the floor, I doubt it will do much harm.
On the other hand, I would abate all the Johnson hardware. I'm in the process of removing all mine and replacing it with real stuff: Hafele.
Johnson hardware is fantastic stuff.
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
The Bi-Fold sliding door hardware from Johnson was $120... the same setup from Hafele was $1200.
Sometimes a closet is just a closet.Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
I thought the same when I priced them both. I have a few pocket doors and the plastic locking mechanism on the top track constantly let's go when the doors get opened. Now it will cost me more to open up the walls and replace the tracks and hardware. Like the old Fram oil filter commercial, "you can pay me now, or you can pay me later".
First Q.....replace the tack strips, you need about a 1/2 -3/4" between carpet and base to tuck the carpet.
Second Q.....depends on the carpet pile, if low pile you could mount on top, assuming it looks O.K. to you, If thick pile mount on some shim stock to prevent crushing the carpet. Final answer is what looks best to you ,or rather the wife! :)
Third Q....... leave it
Geoff