renovation planning–early stage–a few questions
I’m planning to manage (do some work and serve as GC) a large-scale addition on our existing now-mostly renovated home. The addition would be 4 floors; 1) abasement workshop and utilities with one side walk out, 2) ground level kitchen/dining on main level, 3) upper level bedrooms and 4) a third floor set of rooms/offices in the “attic” gable/dormer space). Some facts just in case you’re like “no way should you put a 700k addition on a house.” We bought the dilapidated runt of the neighborhood, a mid-century modern that had a perfect layout. We hve completely renovated everything, resided (WR cedar), reroofed (standing seam), new gas service, insulation work, generator, plumbing and electrical upgrades, all new inside except kitchen (since we knew an addition with kitchen was on the horizon). The layout of the current house is perfect to merge into the addition we have planned (our current house is like one big family room with two bedrooms off the main room and then a lower level walk out that is nicely finished but mostly a gym and a flex/den space). We’ve got a half acre in super prime real estate market close in DC (land alone is valued around 900k), about 750k invested so far (purchase + renovations I’ve done), in a neighborhood with most homes in the 2.2-3 million dollar range. So, we can easily justify this from a resale value. The addition would be built out to the front, outside of current envelope so it won’t disrupt living in the current structure at all.. Existing house layout is perfect for the design I have. Will utilize my engineer who has done a number of designs for me and he will give me all the specs/design sheets, etc. Architect friend will give me casual advice and access to a good and cheap MEP guy to do the other mechanical design work (and I have established relationships working closely with each of a plumber, HVAC firm, and electrician).
Anyway, a few questions.
1) where do I find chimney/fireplace designs for multiple floor chimney? Trying to get ideas for masonry woodburner fireplace and separate bread/pizza oven on main floor, and a fireplace above it on the subsequent two floors. Any books of typical diagrams and designs? Plan is to have real stone veneer (quarried 3 miles from my house) and I assume a grouted CMU structure (which might also be able to support some steel structures.
2) on back, second floor, I want to build a greenhouse/solarium. The floor would be waterproof and insulated to below (it would be built over existing front room of house). Wondering about pros/cons of a site built (traditional or timber framing, patio doors to the south exposure, shed roof with skylights) or a prefabricated 3 or 4 season aluminum structure.
3) We will need to move the gas meter 40 feet closer to the road. It was installed in 2013 and I know the feed line in the ground is poly. I know I need to have a “squeeze and cap off” done, as the installer crew called it, and instead of a cap they’d put a valve, so the meter can be reinstalled next to the new front. Has anyone, in this case, been able to have the meter moved and have a temporary pipe reattached to the house so we can use the gas inside the current structure? Not keen about not having a dryer while I’m working construction on this for a few months. Also trying to avoid having to get an electric dryer (power still present at dryer as the dryer was electric before we switched to gas). Gas company hasn’t been responsive. My plumber seems to think it could be done with steel pipe, but just wondering if anyone has been able to do this.
4) Structure of the addition would be roughly 30′ wide and 36′ long. On the main floor, I want to have open spans, and one 36′ long wall would have a large opening for about a 20′ nanowall. I’m thinking a moment frame for the main two floors (lower floor concrete foundation) would be wise. Neighbor did it on her fire rebuild and it was surprisingly not exorbitant (like 24k installed). On the third floor/roof structure, thinking about a timber frame to do the gable ends and the dormers. The top floor would be set in a few feet each side (so upstairs width only 24′ wide). So point loads of that floor would be three feet inside from outside second/first story walls. All that makes me think steel would be easier than wood to accomplish all this. Want the timber on top for aesthetics (our home offices, one of which is a rustic library). Then I could do SIP panels for the roof and have the insulation and sheathing done in same day (put hi-temp underlayment on and the metal roof can be done flexibly). It seems trying to do all that in LVL and wood would be a nightmare. I liked watching the steel show up next door and within a day and a half it was erected and welded.
5) RE: Sip panels for the roof, any pros/cons? Has anyone had SIP panels made but with plywood? (not an OSB fan).
6) what’s the best new methods of waterproofing a foundation? One side of this will be underground and set into a slope. I need meticulous wter management and even more failproof waterproofing as a final measure. The 3 million $ wonder homes around me still seem to have forms stripped off the next day, tar sprayed on, drain pipe installed, and backfilled by day 3.
7) any suggestions for a cost-effective 20 foot or so nanawall manufacturer? Not wanting to blow the door/window budget on this. Other windows and doors would be Anderson A-series (already have a few installed).
8) Any pros/cons for copper vs. Pex? My plumber is okay with Pex (would insist on Uponor) but prefers copper. I know for gas he will insist on threading his own and not use SST. Should I convince him on pex?
9) HVAC: current new efficient system remains to handle current structure. I’m assuming I’ll do two more: one system for main kitchen that also handles the lower/shop level. I’ll do another system for 2nd/3rd floor (air handler mounted in closet on third floor). (I like not having to run huge trunks from basement to third floor). I’ll need an ERV for the first floor since we will have a very large bluestar hood over a lot of BTU capacity (84″ total width of stove/ovens). Maybe a minisplit for the sunroom down the road. Any reason to go with one larger system? Radiant floor make any sense? But then I still need a/c and sounds like a lot more $ for install.
Any new, cool developments I ought to consider? I devour fine homebuilding, GBA, and JLC, but some of you guys are crazy experienced and smart and your advice would be most welcome. Thanks.
Replies
Thankyou for sharing.
Mikeljon You have alot of questions dude and a rather large project. Methinks you should get a good architect or a GC you trust to help/guide you through the process.
In all seriousness, why would questions about what people on here consider best, emerging practices mean I hand things over to an architect? "Have you had good experiences with SIPs?" Most architects I know haven't used them. Most haven't designed chimneys. Copper vs. Pex preferences given my very capable plumber is very cautious about adopting new technologies (although he does have a crimper and is open to pex like I said). I can talk to 5 GCs or architects and what I'm going to get is what they know/are comfortable with and they're all going to give me different answers. I was just asking some questions about a few specific areas that maybe someone might have ideas about I can take into consideration. (and for what it's worth, I have an architect friend helping think about the design and I have a high-end GC friend who is helping think about planning/logistics and also my backstop (to take it over if I get hit by a bus), as well as give access to best subs, etc.)
“[Deleted]”
Mikeljon -
A. You may have better success with these inquires by breaking them up into separate issues. This way a plumber does not have to read through structural questions before getting to plumbing concerns.
B. There are plumbing sites (terrylove.com), and other sites dealing with specific issues. Google them.
C. Nana walls are expensive - but you get what you pay for. Go cheaper and you'll have a wall but it won't be a Nana. But then again, maybe you don't need a Nana. Either way, the GC is an integral part of this calculation. They'll be able to get the best from any product they've dealt with before. No offense meant, but being a great coordinator and scheduler is only part of being a GC. Experience plays a big role.
D. My grandfather used to tell me that he had forgotten more than I knew (at the time). I am just getting to know what he was talking about. I've been in construction for quite a while and now do things without thinking. Why? Because, like a great quarterback or receiver, we don't think. It's all muscle memory. All the thinking was resolved years ago. Answering the whys and wherefores here takes effort and should be respected. It may be free, but it's still has value.
Frankie
I appreciate all of these pieces of wisdom. I tend to overcomplicate and overshare, but I was anticipating a number of "why would you put so much money in a renovation questions" and probably could have kept the detail hidden and just asked "Anyone use SIPs and had good success or found them troublesome?" Your D is what I'm actually academically working on, as a way to think about the dignity of work as part of the moral life. Anyway, thanks.
Is your planned expansion going to go over the current gas line?
yes, that's why I need to relocate it. It needs to move 40 feet toward the road in a straight line. My plumber says we've got ways to handle this. Just wondering if anyone has had their own experiences having to relocate one but also use it from the new location for the old structure during construction (once new structure is partially done, the gas plumbing work would get done in there and connect to the old structure and make this temp solution moot).
For PEX vs copper, the choices are many.
you can go with PEX in single runs from a manifold and do two things, avoid any joints between the utility area and the fixture connection, and minimize delay to get hot water.
This depends on what your layout is, and use profile. (if three folks will take showers in different places at the same time, it might not matter as much....)
You also can have PEX installed with joints and decreasing sizes, just like a copper installation, with joints of many types.
Copper connections can and do leak years after installation. (ask me how I know) this does depend on workmanship of the parts and connections to some extent, and also on the water chemistry.
thanks. I am leaning to the Pex manifold setup and I think my plumber is on board with that. I had a pinhole leak this last winter that went undetected for three days. Did no real damage, fortunately, but can see the path ahead for replacing the rest of the copper at some point.