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Repair rotted rafter tails

JulieS | Posted in Construction Techniques on July 21, 2003 05:28am

I’ve been wondering what is the best way to repair rotted rafter tails.  I’d prefer not to sister the 2×4 rafter tails, because it looks like a tacked on, “obvious” repair, even though that would be structurally the strongest option.  I liked the suggestion for repairing rotted trim in the June/July issue, but I am wondering if the biscuit-joined butt joint will be sufficiently structural for the last 6″-9″ of an 18″ eave.  Would a roofer standing on the edge of the roof cause it to fail?

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  1. Piffin | Jul 21, 2003 09:58pm | #1

    Probably, yes, as would snow loads.

    If you have little in the way of snow, it might be possible to use paired dowels and epoxy to replace rafter ends but it would be time consuming and expensive.

    It could also be surmised that you are in need of a new roof. That being the case, it can be scarf-jointed at the point above the wall while tearing off the roof, and replacing rotted sheathing. maybe.

    .

    Excellence is its own reward!

  2. Piffin | Jul 21, 2003 09:59pm | #2

    Do you just have a few rotted tails or all of them?

    can you post up a picture or two here?

    .

    Excellence is its own reward!

    1. JulieS | Jul 22, 2003 05:37pm | #4

      Here's more info: The roof has generally little in the way of snow loads (it's in Seattle) but every ten years or so we get some good accumulation. There are a lot of rotted rafter tails on this hip roof (at least a third of them, but maybe even half of them), but the roof is only 8 years old and the sheathing is not rotted (yeah, they should have repaired the rafters, but that was before my tenure!) so I was hoping not to have to get a whole new roof job.  But, as you say, excellence is its own reward.....

  3. RIPVW | Jul 22, 2003 06:26am | #3

    hi, not sure of your roof design, but maybe this will help--

    remove your bird blocks and sister in new tails back up the old rafters about 2-3'

    then cut off old tails so only new tails show, then put in new bird blocks.

    this is easier if you have good roof pitch and attic access or you are reroofing and can remove the first 4 feet of roof sheathing and replace it with new and a drip edge also.  which is a good thing to prevent new dry rot....

  4. Scooter1 | Jul 22, 2003 08:04pm | #5

    Julie, I do historical renovations, and rafter tails were a great historical architectural detail, that is now lost on new homes. This is how we go about replacing them.

    First, almost every rafter tail I have ever seen IS sistered, but it is sistered inside the roof/attic.

    I usually like to replace the rafter tails as part of a re-roof, it just makes much, much easier. Using a sawzall, cut out the nails holding the tail to the rafter and to the top plate. Cut the nails holding it to the eaves. Cut the rascal in half and it should just drop to the ground.

    Go to a lumber yard and order new tails, they are usually 3x5 or larger. Sometimes they have cut patterns on the ends. I find a good one, under the eaves somewhere, and make a masonite template from a tracing. My lumber yard then orders me however I need, and using a bandsaw either our boys cut the pattern at the end or I sub it out to a millwork shop who has a bandsaw with a pattern jig. I order them about 8 feet long.

    Take them up to the attic (you can see how easier this would be if the roof was off, huh?), stick them through the hole in the siding where the old one went and temporarily clamp it in place.

    With a helper and a string line, adjust the tail so that it is even with its neighbors, so the eaves will not sag. Nail it in place along side the roof rafter.

    Next you re-nail the eave boards (typically 1x4 t&g doug fir or redwood or s h i t t y T-111) to the tails.

    Then move on to the next tail. And the next.

    If you are doing a complete re-roof, and replacing the eave boards, you can do them all at once. This is the preferred installation method. expensive, but presumably one only does this once every 100 years or so.

    I don't think bisquits would hold the weight of the eaves and sistering looks c r a p p y. Others may come along with some other ideas, (I have tried steel rods, mending plates, plywood gussets etc) and really won't fool with it, unless I do it the above way. Anyway, your home needs a re-roof anyway, right?

    Regards,

    Boris

    "Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934

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