Replies

1. 
   Pelipeth | Apr 23, 2009 03:15am | #1

   I would think that until the last board you'd be able to glue and nail or just nail thru the tongue and just face nail the last piece. Could glue and face nail with a brad nailer, the hole with some glue and saw dust will be invisible.

1. 
   Ted W. | Apr 23, 2009 04:06am | #3

   That's the thing, they are all 'last' boards, since none of them are together. I know and you know the tiny brads will completely dissapear, but explaining that to the customer is like pulling teeth.

   If I didn't need the work so bad I wouldn't do it. But I do, so I'm gonna. And if I can avoid the subject of nails altogether, I'd rather just glue it. But if that's a half-azzed way of doing it, then I'll just bite the bullet and tell her I have to nail it.

   To put it into perspective, this customer called me back once because there was a little dust left on a window sill, missed during the final clean up. I billed her for the time and she had no problem with that. She's the real Pricess type, glad to pay and pay, but not easy to please.~ Ted W ~

   Cheap Tools! - MyToolbox.netMeet me at House & Builder!

2. 
   coonass | Apr 23, 2009 03:41am | #2

   Ted,

   Screw and plug. Match the grain on the plug and it will disappear.

   KK

1. 
   Ted W. | Apr 23, 2009 04:13am | #4

   Thanks coonass, that's a good suggestion. I'm more inclined to push for using brads, but it does allow one more option. I just wish she would not be there so I could do my job. ~ Ted W ~

   Cheap Tools! - MyToolbox.netMeet me at House & Builder!

3. 
   DanH | Apr 23, 2009 04:40am | #5

   A wild thought: Cut the boards to fit and cut off the one groove edge as normal. Rout out 2-3 narrow horizontal notches in the bottom sides of the pieces, about an inch long and going 2/3 of the way through the plank. The groves would start on the "groove" edge of the plank. Drive nails or trim screws into the tongue of the in-place board (don't ask me how you do this -- we're just brainstorming), matching the position of the notches. (Probably drive fasteners first and then notch to match.)

   Then fill the notches with glue and set in place.

   Or just put a couple of dabs of construction adhesive on the back of each piece and set in place.

   The modern conservative is engaged in one of man's oldest exercises in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral justification for selfishness. -John Kenneth Galbraith
1. 
   Ted W. | Apr 23, 2009 04:57am | #7

   Or just put a couple of dabs of construction adhesive on the back of each piece and set in place.

   Now that one there is genius. I think I'll just do that. ~ Ted W ~

   Cheap Tools! - MyToolbox.netMeet me at House & Builder!

4. 
   oldhand | Apr 23, 2009 04:52am | #6

   I would be inclined to face nail it and do a great job filling the holes after convincing the customer that I felt like it was the best way to do the job. But probably you tried that first.

   .
5. 
   Jeff_Clarke | Apr 23, 2009 04:57am | #8

   Liquid nails is not adequate to secure - use epoxy adhesive and a discrete pin or two here and there.

   Jeff

1. 
   DanH | Apr 23, 2009 05:00am | #9

   A variation on my previous scheme that I've actually used before (though not for flooring) is to drive screws into the subfloor, leaving the heads proud a bit, then drill matching holes in the back of the board. Fill holes with glue and press into place.(I used this technique to mount some wood house numbers -- lasted a dozen years or so until we tore them off while residing.)
   The modern conservative is engaged in one of man's oldest exercises in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral justification for selfishness. -John Kenneth Galbraith

6. 
   [email protected] | Apr 23, 2009 05:18am | #10

   Ted, "coonass" is correct about the right way to do it being, screws & plugs.

   If you cut the plugs out of the cut off piece the grain and color will match very well, a couple of quick added "grain"lines made with a suitable colored ultra fine marker, that crosses through the plug from about an inch before and after, and it disappears.

1. 
   Ted W. | Apr 23, 2009 05:42am | #11

   Thanks for the suggestions everybody. I checked what I have in the shop and I have some polyurethan adhesive from another job, which I decided to use - no nails. I know that will hold solid for the next 50 years. I can get there at 7 and be out by 8:30 and everyone will be happy.

   Peace!~ Ted W ~

   Cheap Tools! - MyToolbox.netMeet me at House & Builder!

1. 
   Ozlander | Apr 23, 2009 06:35am | #12

   Well, you can always go back and face nail them when they come loose.

1. 
   Ted W. | Apr 23, 2009 07:47am | #13

   Why would it come loose? I would sand the sleeper to expose new wood, and clean the dust off of course.~ Ted W ~

   Cheap Tools! - MyToolbox.netMeet me at House & Builder!

1. 
   Piffin | Apr 23, 2009 02:02pm | #15

   Poly glue like PL Premium would weld them together. Never come apart until demo day 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

2. 
   Ozlander | Apr 23, 2009 11:03pm | #22

   Just saying, IF it came loose and IF she noticed it (which I doubt) you could tell her "Now I'll do it MY WAY."

3. 
   Ted W. | Apr 24, 2009 12:20am | #25

   Just saying, IF it came loose and IF she noticed it (which I doubt) you could tell her "Now I'll do it MY WAY."

   Then I break out the #16 spikes! =D~ Ted W ~

   Cheap Tools! - MyToolbox.netMeet me at House & Builder!

2. 
   Piffin | Apr 23, 2009 02:00pm | #14

   well, it is seven now so this is late, but that is exactly what I'd do. Weight the pieces down for a day 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

1. 
   Ted W. | Apr 23, 2009 04:51pm | #18

   She wasn't even home!!!! Man, am I pizzed!

   I figured maybe she's just in the shower, so rang the doorbell and here phone every 10 minutes. No Answer. Finally took a peek in the garage window. No Car! Probably never made it home last night.

   I'm billing her for the hour I wasted and never going back there again.

   UPDATE - 9:12 AM: She just called, just got home, said "sorry but I thought you had a key". She knows dam well I don't have a key. I shared some thoughts with her and don't expect to hear from her again.

   ~ Ted W ~

   Cheap Tools! - MyToolbox.netMeet me at House & Builder!

   Edited 4/23/2009 1:38 pm by Ted W.

3. 
   seeyou | Apr 23, 2009 03:13pm | #16

   I have never done it, but I've seen resteration flooring guys use a sharp chisel and gouge up a little flap of wood, nail underneath it and glue the flap back down.http://www.quittintime.com/      View Image        

1. 
   andybuildz | Apr 23, 2009 03:55pm | #17

   Thats EXACTLY what I was gonna say. I saw a speciality teenie tiny plane they sell just for that. Planes down a little deep on one side. You lift it a bit...set your finish screw or nail in and glue the piece back down. A chisel would work...the plane was just a real fine clean cut though....

    

    

    

   http://www.cliffordrenovations.com

   http://www.ramdass.org

    

1. 
   seeyou | Apr 23, 2009 06:23pm | #20

   Yeah, I've seen those planes, but the cat I saw doing this was wearing it out with that chisel. He'd obviously had some practice.http://www.quittintime.com/      View Image        

2. 
   andybuildz | Apr 23, 2009 06:42pm | #21

   I've atually used that technique several times...mainly on finished work like furnature and trim and some finished flooring only cause that ad for that plane put it into my head. Never used the plane...just used my utility knife with a new blade to keep the kerf as thin as possble...then I hot glued the piece back down but now with my new 2p-10 glue kit http://www.cabinetparts.com/m/fastcap/fastcap/2p10-adhesive-systems/ thats what I'd use to keep the glue nice and thin and super strong and      10 sec trying power

    

    

    

   http://www.cliffordrenovations.com

   http://www.ramdass.org

    

2. 
   Ted W. | Apr 23, 2009 04:58pm | #19

   I have a square chissel for that, works really well. But, I guess it's not even an issue now (see my previous post).

   The thing is she said she doesn't want nails and I didn't want the aggravation of trying to explain it to here. If I used nails at all, it would be my brad nailer. It's just a floor. I was trying to get out of using nails, not looking for an elaborate way of hiding them.

   But thanks, I appreciat the suggestion. ~ Ted W ~

   Cheap Tools! - MyToolbox.netMeet me at House & Builder!

1. 
   alwaysoverbudget | Apr 24, 2009 12:06am | #23

   way to go fire the client and the problem goes away.

   who needs money................

    

   i was going to throw ,if you could get to it underneath. when you get the old strip out shoot a couple 1/8 pilot holes,put board down and put a screw in from underneath.YOU ONLY NEED TWO TOOLS IN LIFE - WD-40 AND DUCT TAPE. IF IT DOESN'TMOVE AND SHOULD, USE THE WD-40. IF IT SHOULDN'T MOVE AND DOES, USE THEDUCT TAPE.

2. 
   Ted W. | Apr 24, 2009 12:21am | #26

   way to go fire the client and the problem goes away. who needs money................

   I don't need it that bad. ;)~ Ted W ~

   Cheap Tools! - MyToolbox.netMeet me at House & Builder!

3. 
   drozer | Apr 24, 2009 12:16am | #24

   they sell the small plane that lifts up a flap of wood to hide the finishing nail at lee valley.

   http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=32683&cat=1,41182

    

   i even plugged in the american currency for y'all.