Replies

1. 
   geob21 | May 03, 2003 05:09am | #1

   Good luck about 95% of Andersen fixed glass I have had to replace breaks trying to get it out. Best advice is get a thin bladed putty knife, heat it up in a flared nozzel heat gun and work very slowly cutting the silicone.

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   If you were arrested for being a quality builder would there be enough evidence to convict you?
2. 
   GUNN308 | May 03, 2003 08:36am | #2

   If the walls & ceiling had poly for a vapor barrier the area around doors and windows is the only place for vapor to escape, could be the window is OK. If it was on the rough sill could be a bad flash job, what about the finish sill?

3. 
   Piffin | May 03, 2003 01:54pm | #3

   Sounds to me like the moisture is from a poor instal or from condensation.

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   Excellence is its own reward!

1. 
   Nailbag | May 03, 2003 02:19pm | #4

   I think the install was ok...the ro was wrapped correctly in bichuthene. The bottom of the window frame had the same black mold even though it it was shimmed and not resting directly on the sill. My guess as to why there wasn't more water is the aspect....away from prevailing winds and storms. I'm still not sure how this house breathes.  

   I'm building my own house on a shoestring so I think I'll flip the window, caulk the heck out of it and make a drip pan on the ro to dump water into the drainage plane.  Still WAY cheaper than buying a new window and rebuilding the window sounds sketchy.

1. 
   Piffin | May 03, 2003 04:21pm | #5

   That's doable. When you flip it, change the metal retainer clips around. The ones on bottom and two sides are intended to create a spacer while the top ones are flat. Change the top to bottom ones with each other..

   Excellence is its own reward!