Repairing delaminated flat veneer on lumber core flat door panel,
osage
| Posted in General Discussion on
Top layer is loose from lumber core. all edges are loose and it will flatten. Anybody know type of glue to use and how to proceed? Hide Glue? Door made in1920’s. Would like to repair for customer. Beautiful trim in this home . Quarter sawn oak trim, flat swan doors, maple floors. Had water damage from defective faucet. Pin hole leak developed in cast brass. Water sprayed on door
Replies
Might be best to just route out the stop on one side and replace the panel.
I think i'd use a razor kinfe to carefully cut the veneer at the molding then laminate on a new piece. I don't think you'll ever get the old one flat and it would still need to be refinished.
I suppose you might try injecting thinned glue with a hypodermic, then clamping between two pieces of plywood cut to fit the opening. Would be difficult to get the glue to spread well, though, and you'd want to be sure to put about 5 layers of wax paper between panel and plywood, so the plywood doesn't end up being permanently laminated on.
osage,
You might try this stuf.
http://www.veneersupplies.com/products/Super-Soft-2-Veneer-Softener-Conditioner.html
KK
And it raises the thought that applying a clothes iron to the surface might soften any glue remaining under the veneer and cause it to readhere.
Since it looks as if the entire panel has delaminated you might just be able to carefully cut it free along the edge and remove it. Then things can be cleaned up, old glue removed, then reveneer the skin. This is a lot of work and you will still be faced with a refinish job. Only you and your client can determine if its worth it.
Otherwise, you might be able to press the veneer back using a clothes iron. The original glue likely was hide glue which is both heat sensitive and water soluble. This procedure will most likely ruin the finish, but that can be repaired.
If you do get it flat the refinish job will be better if you've avoided sanding the old finish. The old wood looks the way it does because of its aged patina. This is something that is acquired with time and cannot be easily reproduced.
Inquiry at a woodworker or furniture refinishing site might be well worth your time.
I will try the iron first but am not optimistic because of the thick veneer, unlike the modern stuff we work with today. Last resort is to plow out the stile and rail molding and replace the panel and try to duplicate the style of it. I do have a pretty good finisher that may be able to put a little "patina" back on the new panel. I am a little leery of cutting out the veneer and re-applying because of the seasonal panel movement and the visible line the cut will leave. The other side is the same way. Only the core stayed flat. I considered all that has been said before the initial post, I was just hoping for some "magic" that I hadn't thought of. The wood relaxer is intriguing though, I have never heard of that product, always used a smelly home made vinegar solution and the wood ended up smelling like pickles! Thanks everyone for their thoughts.