Replies

1. 
   MarkH | Aug 14, 2016 09:46am | #1

   You will have to remove the gutter fasteners probably 12 feet or so and prop or hold up the gutter end somehow to get access to the fascia. You will need to get enough clearance to R&R the fascia, so it will be tough working around a gutter, but it can be done.

2. 
   finefinish | Aug 16, 2016 12:14am | #2

   Hi there,

         I have been in the same predicament, except we had about 400 or 500 linear feet of fascia to replace.  All of the seamlless gutters were new and installed over rotten pine fascias.  I really wanted to drag the gutter guys back and have them remove everything, let us do our work, and then have them come back, but that wasn't an option as we were doing the work for a neighbor as a favor and the gutter guy was his brother in law!  

         We made 3 or 4 right angle brackets out of scrap, but a standard shelf bracket or a larger "L" bracket would work.  Then we screwed the brackets about a foot below the gutter, removed the gutter screws then dropped the gutter section onto the brackets and made the repairs.  We had a few sections that were 4 or 5 peices and corners that wrapped an octagonal turret.  Some of these more complicated runs required 3 sets of coordinated hands to keep all the joints in tact.  

         If you don't have siding or cornerboards that you can screw the brackets into, then maybe you could hang the bracket off the soffit to be replaced, do the fascia and gutter work then replace the soffit.  

       A less involved and maybe suitable solution would be to remove the soffit, cut the fascia nails and remove it in sections while the gutter hangs from 2 or 3 screws...   not sure that's easier afterall...  it sounds like a pain in the butt to me.  I think simply dropping the gutter a foot is the way to go.   

1. 
   DanH | Aug 16, 2016 08:06am | #3

   Note that your scheme won't work if the house has any sort of eave overhang.

3. 
   finefinish | Aug 16, 2016 01:19pm | #4

   Hi Dan,  Good to see some of you regulars are still sticking around despite the goings on with the forum.  With the job I described to Swiss we did have 12" deep soffits which is why we made the brackets out of scrap ply and trim stock.  Luckiky all the trim on our job was to getting re-painted so we could screw the brackets to the window trim and cornerboards.  The siding was clear red cedar shingles so we couldn't put any holes in it.  I think the reinforced bent metal shelf supports you see at the hardware store would work well for any soffit up to 10 or 12 inches or so.  

1. 
   DanH | Aug 16, 2016 06:15pm | #5

   24" overhangs are fairly

   24" overhangs are fairly typical around here, so the bracket scheme isn't apt to work very well.

   I'm not thinking of a scheme that would work very well on a wide overhang, other than perhaps to haul the gutter up onto the roof, perhaps securing with ropes running over the ridge to a counterweight.

4. 
   SwissCarpenter | Aug 18, 2016 07:31pm | #6

   Thanks guys.  Good ideas.  I swear, I could kick the guys that installed the guttering on this house in the you know where.  All this damage could be prevented had they used a $6 tube of gutter sealant.  Flipping aggrivating.  It just blows my mind that crappy tradespeople can actually go home at night and sleep.  I'd feel guilty as heck if I did this sort of slipshod work.