I have been asked to repair rotted top plate and cap plate and several cripples over a 6-6 window. HO tore off all drywall on wall and one sheet of the ceiling to reveal framing.
One story tract house
outside wall in 10′ wide bedroom
wall supports roof trusses 24″ OC, 1 1/2-12 pitch.
about 6 feet of top plate; 5 feet of cap plate rotten
cripples above header rotten
6’8″ header beneath rotted area is in ok condition
king studs and trimmers undamaged
intact stucco on outside
It appears that I can shore up the trusses, cut out the rotten sections of top plate and cap plate and then drop the trusses back in place. The most I could offset butt joints in new top and cap plates would be maybe 18″ to 24″ because of the intersecting room walls. I could stitch those overlaps with a palm nailer and 16D nails, but it would still be well short of the normal 4′ offset.
Since the roof is all trusses, I don’t think there should be any outward loads on the top plates trying to bend the walls, so can I get away with stitching those skimpy offsets and toe-nailing the trusses to the new cap plate?
Are there other potential problems that I don’t see?
Thanks,
Replies
Greetings Bruce,
This post, in response to your question, will bump the thread through the 'recent discussion' listing again which will increase it's viewing.
Perhaps it will catch someone's attention that can help you with advice.
Cheers
every court needs a jester
Thanks for the bump, rez. It led to some helpful posts.
BruceT
What you have in mind will work. May look in a Simpson or Silver cacatalogue for metal straps/plates that are designed to tie wood top plates together.
Me , I am curious how that location came to be rotten , and how you are going to keep the stucco intact ...
Rot came from roof leak last year - lots of rain that kept the area very wet - new roof since then.Thanks for the help.
BruceT
>>>>>Are there other potential problems that I don't see?
My 1st thought is "How did the rot occur?"
Keeping it from happening again is job #1.
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"We have enough youth, how about a fountain of smart?"
seeyou-
What might be the minimum slope one could get by with if the decking is perfectly flat and covered with Grace Ice&Water Shield w/ archy shingles?
Thanks
I never had a problem with character, people've been telling me I was one ever since I was a kid.
2/12 is the spec on certainteed, OC and GAF. Don't know about others, but I suspect it's the same. 3/12 for 3 tabs with I&WS under.http://logancustomcopper.com
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"We have enough youth, how about a fountain of smart?"
I'm not sure about archy shingles. Are they a brand name? Still I would say 3/12 because the chances of wind driven rain and capillary action water will find a way under the shingles and you are relying on the water shield to stop the leaks. Shingles on a flat roof are not a good idea and roof and decks should not be perfectly flat. Is this a trick question Rez?
No, by perfectly flat I meant minus any dips and humps as commonly found on some old home's lowpitched roofs that might form an odd swale somewhere on the decking so no, not a trick question, just a too loose worded comment is all. :o)
By archy I meant any architectural style shingle with a full length uncut base layer as opposed to a threetab.
I never had a problem with character, people've been telling me I was one ever since I was a kid.
Thanks for clarrifying. Looks like I should brush up on my lingo:-)
Make sure no one's butchered the trusses you'll be lifting.
Odd to get that much rot in only a year.
I'm curious as to which type of roofing material was used, being a low slope of 1.5/12. Anything under a 3/12 should be treated as more of a flat roof and a torch on or tar and gravel would be a common method. Other than that your plan of restoring your rott problem is perfect.
You're dead-on right. Tar and gravel it was.BruceT