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Repairing wall studs

SenorDorado | Posted in Construction Techniques on October 6, 2006 05:10am

I am in the process of repairing termite damaged wall studs in my Gambrel storage shed. I have replaced the 3/4″ floor, 2×4 rim joist, and 2×4 wall stud bottom plate with pt material. I also have clipped the damaged wall studs bottom portions. My initial idea to repair the wall studs was to cut pt 2×4’s to create a makeup block for the space between the bottom 2×4 plate and the end of the clipped 2×4 wall stud. Then sister the bottom portion on both sides of the original non treated wall stud. My question is; Should I sister the entire length of the 2×4 wall stud, or can I get by with just sistering the bottom portion of the wall stud? I haven’t removed all of the 3/4″ sheathing yet and haven’t seen any more damage in the upper portions of the wall studs.

Thanks

Senor Dorado

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Replies

  1. junkhound | Oct 06, 2006 05:27pm | #1

    just sister the bottom portion, but overlap onto good wood of the old stud by at least 14 to 18 inches.

  2. fairban9 | Oct 06, 2006 06:29pm | #2

    It basically comes down to how sound you want to make the wall.  By placing the block underneath the cut stud and adding a "sistered" block alongside, you may be able to get that to hold up for normal, every day activities (typical wind load, live load).  I can pretty much guarantee that it wouldn't be "sound" in accordance with design loads.  It may hold up though and with it just being a storage shed you probably don't have to worry about it too much. 

    1. User avater
      BruceT999 | Oct 07, 2006 08:26pm | #7

      By screwing that 3/4" sheathing 12-6 after sistering both sides of the bottom portions of the studs the shear value should be way more than needed.BruceT

  3. JohnSprung | Oct 06, 2006 07:24pm | #3

    For a residential building that has to pass inspection, you'd need to sister the whole thing.  But for a storage shed, a block and partial like Junhound said should be fine.  Do, though, put it together with lots of construction adhesive or woodworking glue.  With enough area of overlap, that can be as good as new. 

     

     

    -- J.S.

     

    1. SenorDorado | Oct 07, 2006 04:38pm | #4

      Thanks for your thoughts. When you mentioned construction adhesive or woodworking glue, I'm thinking Liquid Nails or Tite Bond III. Are these good for pt materials? If not, can you suggest other adhesives for an outdoor environment?It's been suggested to over lap the sistered stud by 14 - 18 inches.Thanks
      Senor Dorado

      1. JohnSprung | Oct 09, 2006 08:10pm | #8

        Liquid nails or better ones like the PL's would be easier to use than TiteBond.  But if you have the TiteBond handy and not the others, you could use it.  It'll be harder to deal with because it's runny.  You'd have to coat your patch piece with it held horizontal, then slap it up quick.  Smear some on the old stud first, too.  Only a small amount will hang on to wet it, but every little bit helps.

        Adhesives in shear like this are good for some number of pounds per square inch.  By having an overlap of 18" or so, you get a lot of square inches, which is what you need for strength.  If you do it with a thin glue like TiteBond, be sure to clamp it well so you don't lose area, and therefore strength, to voids. 

        And, after all, it's just a storage shed....    

         

        -- J.S.

         

  4. User avater
    MarkH | Oct 07, 2006 05:27pm | #5

    I would probably just pull off the studs and replace them with new.  You are only talking a few studs, right?

    If you sister them, it will likely be fine also.  I'd use a gap filling glue like construction adhesive (liquid nails, PL polyurethane etc) not titebond.

    1. SenorDorado | Oct 07, 2006 06:01pm | #6

      MarkH Thanks for your reply. I had extensive damage on all of the wall studs,7 in all, across the back wall of the shed.Senor Dorado

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