The exposed wall in the photo is going to be replaced by posts and a beam. Other than erecting two temporary walls to hold things in place with removing the wall and installing the beam, is there another way?
In certain scenarios, flat roofs make more sense than pitched roofs (and vice versa).
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Replies
Greetings Red,
This post, in response to your question, will bump the thread through the 'recent discussion' listing again.
Perhaps it will catch someone's attention that can help you with advice.
Cheers
when in doubt add garlic
That's going to be big improvement in the house. very open.
What about temporary collar ties using cables and come-alongs?
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
It's a site built scissor truss situation. A few of the trusses in this area have splices in the top chords. I think any tension on these would create instant skylights. Will probably just bite the bullet and put up the temporary walls. Thanks.
Other than erecting two temporary walls to hold things in place with removing the wall and installing the beam, is there another way?
Nope.
The temporary walls can be pretty sparse, like one stud every 32-48". Usually. Depends on the situation.
Actually, cancel that advice. You better get an engineer in there pronto.
Edit: I didn't see that the wall went up to the ridge. You could do what the previous poster suggested, use come-alongs as rafter ties at the roof/wall intersection. I did that once repairing a barn with kneewalls that had splayed. It worked, but I think the temporary walls would be the easier of the two solutions.
Edited 11/6/2006 5:44 pm ET by woodguy99
Thanks for your input. I already had an engineer look at it to determine the necessity of a replacement beam. His design requires a doubled 7.25" LVL beam with a triple 2x6 post. Not a lot of weight involved, in fact, he said that in a typical scissor truss situation, one could normally omit the beam altogether. Unfortunately, the trusses were site built, and a few of the truss chords have splices. We speculate that the builder was probably using up some shorter lengths because there was a wall going underneath that could carry the load down to the main beam in the basement. Fast forward 20 years, large kitchens are in and new owner would like the wall removed.
The engineers report states to erect temporary walls for support while replacing beam. Just wondering if anyone had another method for temporary support.
Title of thread: replace bearing wall in cath'drl ceiling
Question-- Why would one have a nearing wall in a cathedral ceiling?
~Peter
Correction. Bearing wall is under the cathedral ceiling.
as a precaution I;d simply put up a temp post past the extent of your new beam location. Then remove existing framing and replace with beam and post as you want. Remove your support and voila!
Shouldn't be too difficult at all.
http://www.petedraganic.com/
Am I understanding this correctly that a triple 2x6 post is going to go where the corner of the two demoed walls used to be? Would it be possible to continue the beam out the right side of the picture to the next wall, and eliminate the post?
If there are trusses above this, is there room up there to hide a beam and hang everything from it? That way you wouldn't need temp walls, and the whole thing looks a lot cleaner without the beam showing.
-- J.S.