Trying To Replace Sill Plate On Old House With Poured Perimeter Foundation Jacking From Underneath I could Only Raise One Joist At A Time Allowing Only About 12″ Of Treated 2×6 Under Each Joist I tried to Raise More Than One It Just Drove My Jack & Blocks In the Ground is This Enough Or Anyone Have A Ideal It Is Kind of Wet Under There Which Doesn’t Help Luckily The Rot Is Only In The Middle Of The Wall Where A Concrete Porch Connects To The Front Of The House
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Replies
uSE mORE jACKS aND wIDER bOARDS uNDERNEATH.
Nicely done Dan.Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
I think that first post was the title of a new book.
What? like that old favorite: Dr Strangelove, Or How I Stopped Worrying and Learned to Love The Bomb?Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Lay A Fat Beam On The Floor To Support Jacks Or Use Cribbing
Dedge, theres no compelling reason why the sill plate should be longer than 12". I'd just continue on installing on chunk of sill plate under each joist. I'd attemp to keep all the joints centered in each bay.
I'll probably be the only one advocating this. I'm more into understanding the function of each part and less enthralled with the prettiness of them. If you think your house will blow away, include some alternate type of hold downs. Here in Michigan, that wouldn't be an issue but regional differences dictate different requirements.
blue
Just because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
This Was My Thought Also I Dont Want To Crack Drywall Or Repair Plumbing I Hope The Home Inspector Shares Our Thoughts Will Know Later Today Thanks For The Positive Input
Pieces of plate under 4 ft. wouldn't be accepted here in CA with our earthquake requirements. I have a 12 ft. piece of w8x15 steel for doing this, and I lift it one end at a time and build up cribbing as I go. A 20 ton Norco bottle jack works fine, even in the middle of a two story house. Use cribbing under the jack to spread the load and get a big stable base.
-- J.S.
To prevent jacks from sinking into the ground, I use jacking pads made from 2" thick oak boards, measuring 12x12 in size, and 4" thick. Also use 20ton bottle jacks on most sill replacment work. To properly replace a sill, you have to use a beam against the joists, along with at least 2-4 jacks, depending on the sill. In some cases there will be some minor plaster cracking. Last of all, when raising the sill, pump the bottle jacks a few times, then listen. I knew of a case where a contracter went and jacked up a house all at once, causing the 1st floor wall to balloon out and crack.
JoeF
Renaissance Restorations
Antique & Victorian Home Restoration Services
http://www.renaissancerestorations.com
I get by with just one bottle jack, putting cribbing and wedges next to it to hold things while I move it to the next position. It would be quicker to have more jacks, but for the few times I need to do this, the time savings wouldn't justify another 2-3 at $150 each.
-- J.S.