I am a DIY that, because of a divorce, has to fix a home and place it on the market for sale. Several of the bedroom doors have to be replaced. They are hollow-core doors to be placed by 6 panel doors. I plan on purchasing pre-hung doors. The doors are all standard size. Any FineHomebuilding article that would guide me through the steps or any hints from the real construction guys out there?
Thanks, Mike
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Replies
Why do you need pre-hung?
What would be another choice? I do not have the tools to router hinge indentations - old hinges are rounded not squared. Isn't it 10x's more difficult to just hang the door? Assume I know very little. Mike
Mike, I am assuming you know little, given your original post.
If you don't know much, you start with the basics.
To hang a pre-hung door, you need to
a) take off all the existing trim
b) take out the existing jamb
c) hang the new prehung unit plumb & level (so you need at least a plumb bob, and hanging pre-hungs requires MORE skill than the alternative), and paint all the new trim as well.To hang a new slab (that means just a door)
you need to
a) check the old door (to see if it was cut down in some odd way-you could do this step before making your decision to go pre-hung-if you have a lot of odd size doors then pre-hung might start looking better...)
b) if the door is standard size, then you measure the hinge locations and cut them into the door--cost, one chisel, and you don't get to re-use the old hinges (you square the round corner on the jamb hinge gains (gain meaning the hinge "indentations.....but if your really cheap. you can cut "indentations" with rounded corners with the addition of a razor knife to your new chisel tool kit....just takes patience....))All in all, unless the existing jambs & trim are both modern and trashed, there is no reason to use prehung units, and the skill level/tool investment is minimal (You should be able to get slabs pre-drilled for locks...but just like above, check that the existing locks are in "standard" location...)
Think about how complex your TV, car, cell phone, etc. are.....general carpentry ain't rocket science by any stretch of the imagination......
Thanks so much. I did a 'little' research on-line. Saw a few pictures and they do tell a 1000 words. I like the idea of a slab - I am sure I can set the hinge. I even have a plumb-bob to check plumb on existing frame and ensure its square I know the 3-4-5 rule and the nickle/dime rule as well.I printed your instructions and am off to try my best.Thanks again, Mike
One thing to be sure of is that the doors really are "standard size". Even though the door slabs may measure the same, there may be a 1/2" or so difference in the size of the rough opening that the frame will fit, and the new prehungs may not fit in the old openings.
And, of course, if the trim is different width on the new units you may have to make plaster repairs or repaint the walls.
That said, for a DIYer it's probably easier to install prehungs than to accurately install hinges and latches on individual doors. You'd at the very least need a router and a hinge routing jig, plus a door boring kit (though any excuse for buying new tools should never be passed over lightly). And of course you need one of those door stands that's being discussed in a different thread. Plus you run the risk of wrecking a door when you bore it wrong or whatever.
Need a router?!?!
Kidding, right???I hope?????
Mike
here is another thought if you buy the new doors from a "door shop or lumber yard with a door shop" this could be even easier.
Label the old doors as to rooms.
Bring them to the shop.
In my area for about 10.00 per door they will cut the hinges in for you right where they need to be on the new slabs.
15 if you want the lock set cut I do that myself..
I have done it both ways cut them myself and have had them cut.
Just did one yesterday not too hard with a router and hinge template. A porter cable plastic template runs about 25.00 or so with bit. Router borrow one or buy a cheap one if you want to go at it yourself. Just measure and measure and measure again to be sure you are right before you cut. I agree replacing slab much easier provided the frames are in good shape. One last note the PC template is bigger by about 1/8" the the cut out so you need to watch that you place it correctly and stop the router before lifting it up so as not to nick the template with the bit.
Wallyo
I have a router - old but like me reliable. It is NOT a plunge router. Now, when I tell you this it will make clear my level of expertise, its a Craftsman. I know I have been on this site for @ a year and know that choice makes me a real DIY. I do not have the template but I defer to the prior response - Router??? Template??? Your kidding right?.I do not want to start an argument either about door or the bail-out. But I would like to go the route of replacing only the door. The jambs appear to be in excellent shape and need perhaps a coat of paint at most. Caulk and paint make things what they ain't. Anyway I will shop around at local lumber years to see if they can carbon copy my doors if I bring them in.Let me know how you guys decide on the chisel vs template decision.Mike
Sorry some where I thought I read you did not have a router. I have a Bosch and a craftsmen,
wish I could find another older craftsmen the old one with the rack and pinion height adjustment. Chisel vs router. I can do it both ways, kinda hard to chisel those round corner hinges.
I would take router, even for square hinges just finish off with a corner chisel and corner chisel.They can be routed with out a template just takes a bit of skill. Have done it that way too.
Line up the hinge to the proper place,
Screw it in where it needs to be with two screws,
Score around hinge with a utility knife.
remove hinge
choose your weapon router of chisel and go at it.
kind of cool with a router you get close to the score line don't need to touch it and the wood splinters away.Check the yards and shops call around most can quote over the phone as long as you have a door style.