Replacing a Rotted Wood Basement Entry
JimJF
| Posted in Construction Techniques on
I want to replace the rotting wooden hatch on my basement entry bulkhead. The problem is this: the bulkhead is on an inside corner between the main part of the house which is masonry (1890’s Cast Stone) and a 1930’s framed addition which I intend to reside at the same time I replace the hatch. The bulkhead has a flat concrete top with the slope for the hatch built up with wood framing. I would like some suggestions on whether I should: 1-re-frame and use a metal hatch designed for a sloped bulkhead, 2-form and build up the slope with concrete, or 3-use an all metal hatch with sloped sides designed for flat bulkheads and fill in and flash any gaps, or 4-any other suggestions welcome. Thank you in advance for any help you can give me.
Replies
Any ideas, anyone???
1. Money; 2. Appearance; 3. Time; 4. Your skills; 5. How it interfaces with the new siding/other parts of the house.
Decide which of the above important to you, list options for each factor, and be sure to get your wife's approval.
Forget the bulkhead and build a covered walk-in entry.
A covered walk-in entry is not an option, there is a window above the bulkhead that is an important source of ambient natural light for the living room.
My biggest concern is the flashing on the sloped side of the bulkhead that meets the wood framed addition. I know to flash the same as a shed dormer, but this is at ground level, and i am concerned about snow buildup in the winter which would remain longer than on a roof (I know, keep it cleaned off :)).
Edited 6/16/2002 9:16:54 PM ET by JimF
What kind of door will you have down there and is there a designated place for any water leakage to go?
The basement door is a site built wood X braced door. I will be replacing it with a homemade insulated door (really odd size, a custom door would be expensive).
Surprizingly there is little or no leakage into the basement, even with the rotting existing door.
A while back in a thread someone was detailing how to take a standard exterior metal door and threshold/jamb and cut it down on the top to make it fit the odd size cellarways. It was a slick operation.
Wish I knew where it was.
If the old entry lasted for 70 years or more, I would just copy it in pressure treated lumber and be done. Sometimes these entrys are in damp to flood conditions and in that case I would be tempted to use a metal Bilco door. Around here its pretty wet most of the time and wood rots out pretty quick, but I like the look of wooden cellar doors on an old house myself.
Where are you? How much do you want to spend? What kind of look do you want? Makes a difference in recommendations.
at one end of the spectrum, about 20 years ago i replaced an ugly bulkhead door covered with tarpaper and asphalt shingles with an equally ugly plywood door wrapped in tarpaper and covered with asphalt shingles. worked well for what the customer wanted, no complaints, got paid on time.
if it were my house, if it were facing the street i would build a pt frame and side to match the rest of the house. if it were facing the back, i would build it up with concrete for a metal door so it would last longer and require less maintenance. just my $.02.
Hope this helps. Rich.