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Replacing carpet on stairs

dt4 | Posted in Construction Techniques on April 23, 2012 02:45am

I’m hoping i might get some advice on a recent home improvement project I am working on.

The stairs to our 2nd floor were covered in carpeting. We would like to remove carpet and add Red oak treads.

Upon pulling the carpet off, we discovered the rough treads under the carpet were 2×10 with 3/4 inch risers. There are 2 stringers on either end of the treads. Total span is about 31 inches.

The initial plan was to use a Retro tread product that I could lay over the 2×10 rought treads. However, I have discovered that 3 or 4 of the rough treads are out of level (front to back) by a significant amount (almost 1/4 inch). This was hidden by the carpet and not noticed.

I believe the retrotreads need a level surface to be glued to, so these unlevel rough treads are posing a problem (seems like the stringers on either end of the treads were cut at a slightly different angle from the rest of the cuts).

Given the fact I may need to remove these 3 or 4 unlevel rough treads to get them level, I’m wondering if I can just remove all the rough treads and install standard 1 inch red oak treads?

Would 1x treads be strong enough to replace 2x rough treads? Or would I need to build up the tread by adding 1/2 plywood first with 1x tread on top?

 

Thanks for your advice!

 

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Replies

  1. IdahoDon | Apr 23, 2012 04:12pm | #1

    Carpted stairs are often made quickly and roughly since the carpet is forgiving visually so it's not suprising that things aren't level and square.   Anytime I'm looking at replacing carpeted stairs the main things I look for are how well the stairs are supported, and if the risers are cut correctly.   Uneven tread deapth is normally easy enough to adjust for and the bottom tread may kick out a little farther than the original in the worst case.  However, when it comes to risers, if many are a bit too tall it's so time consuming to cut them down to size that it's better to simply recut the stringers.  

    Oak is stiff but I would want a center stringer to firm things up - even harder to cut a third stringer to match uneven existing stringers so it's another reason to start from scratch.

    1. dt4 | Apr 23, 2012 04:25pm | #2

      Thanks IdahoDon,

      Unfortunately, I do not have access to the underneith of the stairs as it is drywalled. Pulled up one tread and the stringers are on either end (about 31 inch span) with a 2x4 running up the middle and secured to the treads which I'm assuming is used to support drywall underneith. I haven't checked the rough risers but will do so.

      I'm trying to leave the existing structure as much intact as possible, otherwise its beyond my scope and we will have to just put down new carpet.

      Could I just remove the 2x rough treads, level the stringer in the bad areas and than install 1/2 plywood with 1x oak tread on top of that? I don't know what the code is when it comes to tread thickness and stringer span.

      Thanks again

      1. IdahoDon | Apr 24, 2012 11:30am | #6

        Have you measured the riser heights?  Code allows some variation from riser to riser, but it shouldn't be more than 1/4" from one to the next and the max difference between the tallest and shortest riser should be less than 3/8".  Almost always the problems are at the first or last riser - you need to adjust everything so it comes out the same - normally more time consuming than just cutting new stringers, but not always.

        As for tread depth it's common to allow the nose of the tread to overhang the riser by an inch and total depth of readily available oak treads are 10-1/2" to 11-1/2" depending on the source.  

        1. dt4 | Apr 25, 2012 11:54am | #7

          I have measured the current rough treads/rises.

          From Tread to top of next tread is pretty consistant at 7 1/4 inches, with the exception of the 1st tread. For that the rise is only 6.5 inches from the main floor to the first tread.

          As it seems the first rise is slightly less than the others and the fact I want to put 3/4 hardwood floor on the top landing, I'm thinking of building up each tread by a 1/4 inch more than what it is now. (currently its 1.5inch rough tread. Thinking of pulling rough treads out and replacing with 3/4 plywood and than a 1 inch finished tread).

          I was planning on leaving a 1 inch overhang on the treads.

          Thanks

  2. dt4 | Apr 23, 2012 11:18pm | #3

    Thanks for the reply Dan

    I'm thinking I might try to take out all the rough treads and risers. I would replace the rough 3/4 inch risers with 3/4 inch red oak risers. Than I would add 3/4 inch plywood rough tread to the stringers (glue and screw). On top of the plywood I would glue/finish nail 1 inch red oak finished tread. That would give me a 1 3/4 inch total tread with a 3/4 in riser.

    This would put my total tread height about a 1/4 inch thicker than what it is now. I'm hoping this will be more than adequate.

    Again, the stringers are about 31 inches apart.

    Thanks again for your advice!

    1. calvin | Apr 24, 2012 07:02am | #4

      dt

      Screw through the back of the riser into the tread, that'll hold the rear of the tread.  Glue screw and plug through the top of the tread to the riser.

      If there's concern about splitting the riser when you run your screws from the backside-use oak plywood.

      note-I'd use a deck screw v. drywall screw-thicker shank-less chance of snapping it off and stronger in shear.

      1. DanH | Apr 24, 2012 07:27am | #5

        Piffin will be disappointed in you.

        (I'd spend the bux for GRKs.)

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