Replacing doors in out-of-plumb frame
I have a house that suffers from a lot of settlement, resulting in out of plumb floors, walls, doors, etc.
We are replacing our doors on the main level (6 existing + 2 to replace closet bi-folds). For the front door we will set it plumb in a new frame by shimming it about 3/16″ at one corner to make it plumb.
We have a “library” (read room full of books and shelves) and will replace the hollow core door (that of course is out of plumb) with a French door (34″ width). I was going to adjust the jambs to make them plumb and square but upon removing the casing I found that there were no shims and virtually no space between the jambs and the 2×4 framing. My plan is to use the existing jambs and simply hang the new door in the existing opening. Unfortunately this means we will have a self-closing door and will have to remove a wedge 1/8″ max. depth at the hinge side on the top of the door. We also are having a new hardwood floor installed on one side of the door (not on hinge side).
Would you do anything differently to correct the problem?
While I am at it, I am also going to remove 2 closet bi-folds and replace with hinged doors. The openings have a 5/8″ drywall extension past the adjoining closet side walls with metal J-clips (?) to protect the openings. These need to be removed before a new door casing can be installed. How do you remove these metal casings and prepare the opening for a new door frame? That is without making one h*** of a mess.
Excuse my ignorance of construction renovation procedures. I am a part-time cabinet woodworker retired from engineering (HVAC).
Brian
Replies
Open one wall? move Jack over.
Or mill down the frame with a surface planer.
You could cut the door, but I couldnt live with it.
-zen
If it's a "library" the joists may need some additonal support anyway. Check that out first and you may be able to "solve" your door problem.
Hi x,
First step, be absolutely sure that the house is no longer settling.
Next step, keep it clean. I would nick into the framing rather than attempting to cut the door without it being obvious. That is an advanced activity...that takes years of practice. Hang a new jamb properly in the opening...then hand your door.
On your other openings with the drywall stop, again, install a clean new jamb, plumb, level and square, then hang your door. Just try to remove the protruberence making as little mess possible. I can't see exactly what you are talking about, but try to get creative. Possibly cutting through the drywall to the studs so that when you remove the j track you don't damage the existing drywall.
I am assuming you know most of the tricks to hanging a standard door.
It is simply not worth messing around with a poor foundation to put new work on, moreso for a part timer.
Good Luck,
Lawrence
GardenStructure.com~Build for the Art of it!
Either plane the jambs or move the stud. I have on occasion taken a hatchet to a stud if only a small area is to be removed. I have seen studs planed too. I am assuming you are speaking of the width of the door opening. If your problem is the height, cut the ears off the top of the jamb or cut the door bottom.
When you say you will have a self closing door , do you mean the walls are out of plumb?If this is the case , take door off the hinges, remove the stop and rip the jambs in half lengthways. When the door stop is installed it will cover the saw kerf. Install each jamb to the face of the wall, even if the wall is out of plumb the trim can be correctly applied. Now you can recut the mortise in the jamb a bit further so the door will be plumb, when done the door will not be self closing.
The molding on the bifold openings are called J -bead, sometimes metal often plastic. They slip on over the raw drywall edge for a more finished look. If there are no nails or screws thru this it will come off fairly easy. Take a 2" putty knife and tap it between the rock and the face of the J-bead. Start near the top, it will tap right off,work the knife down til it is off.
mike