Sorry if the following are rookie questions but figured this is the place to get good advice. I’m having my gutters replaced soon and there are two short run areas where the fascia boards are rotten. I’m figuring that I’ll take down the old gutters and replace those boards shortly before the gutter guys come.
Here are my questions:
– Do I cut the top edge of the fascia boards at an angle so that when they are inserted up under the drip edge that it meets the angle of the roof sheathing or will butting it up under there be fine?
– What type of wood should I use? Pine 1x primed and painted?
– My soffits are vinyl and there is alum flashing on the fascia boards but it only runs about half way up behind the gutters. Is that ok because when the new gutters are installed they will cover it or should I put additional flashing there? Should I just ask the gutter guys to handle this with alum flashing?
– I’m assuming the gutter guys will slip the back edge of the gutters up under the drip edge right?
Anything else I should consider?
Thanks in advance.
Edited 11/16/2008 8:41 pm ET by Toolsguy
Replies
You don't state if your rafter tails are square-cut or vertical. Either way, I doubt the top edge was beveled - but you'll know when you take the old fascia off.
I would be concerned about the cause of the rot. Perhaps the roofing paper didn't cover the edge properly (this sometimes happens when the roofing paper is run before the fascia is run). I would address it if that's the case, because it'll just rot again, otherwise.
CaliforniaRemodelingContractor.com
Rafters are verticle
My soffits are vinyl and there is alum flashing on the fascia boards but it only runs about half way up behind the gutters. Is that ok because when the new gutters are installed they will cover it or should I put additional flashing there? Should I just ask the gutter guys to handle this with alum flashing?
Thats not ok,thats part of the reason your facia bords are rotten to begin with. Previous installer was trying to make it look like the facia was wrapped and too lazy to remove the gutter and put it up under the drip edge. It should cover the whole facia, water was getting trapped after it got being the half done facia coil.
- I'm assuming the gutter guys will slip the back edge of the gutters up under the drip edge right?
Not so the gutter must have pitch towards the downspout and therefore cant be all the way up the whole run. They make and I have made peices of aluminum that tuck up under the dripedge and extend over the gutter a little bit to keep water from running behind the gutter.
Is installing cover something that the gutter companies do? My roofer who is top notch referred me to these guys and I'm assuming they could use the same material that they fabricate the gutters from no? I dont have the bending tools or material to make that sort of thing myself. Bend would be down at the bottom of the fascia board.Dont ya love how everything simple turns into more than meets the eye. LOL
Sorry I cant say they would do it, but if they are reputable they should know what you mean and if they do do it than they would be happy to charge you for it. Mostly done so water dosent leak behind gutter, thats the whole point of having gutters isnt it? to send the water away from the house. Like I said Ive heard they make em for purchase but we would bend our own on the break out of left over coilstock. Never seen store bought ones. Now that I think about it its kind of custom how you want to make them so dont know bout premade ones.
So do you think if they do the custom fitting like you mention that I wouldnt need to run the cover up behind the gutter?
I say yes do both. first why have gutters if water is going to drip down the facia anyways?, now the type of bracket that attaches the gutter to the facia makes a difference in the impact of that. There are a lot of different types of brackets and some just allow the gutter to stick out from the facia a little farther.
Second yes having the facia up under the drip like it should will "prevent" rot to the facia board, but dont you think water can follow the screws were it penetrates the coil, not gonna happen overnite but were pros right?
Third a roof is dirty, the water running down it is dirty, the facia parts you can see are bound to look streaked and dirty.
I never realized any of this untill the guy I worked for made us do it and if you give it thought ya gotta think why not. I say mostly you have gutters to keep water away from the house and foundation so lets keep the water in the gutters. If you had a leaky joint in the gutter wouldnt you have it repaired? well if its running behind it whats the point of having a gutter to collect "most" of the water?
I think your talking about the facia? I was just talking about the peice above the gutter that tucks under the drip. and stops water from getting behind the gutter. I think its a good idea.
Your question would depend on the company Ive seen guys that only do gutters and Ive seen guys that will do all the alum. work- facia, wrap windows n doors ect.. We will usally do all the alum work except for the gutters unless its peices that arnt to long and can be bought and transported easily.
" I'm assuming the gutter guys will slip the back edge of the gutters up under the drip edge right?"
Gutters are pitched to the drop. ... So no, the only place it will be close to the drip edge is the high end.
I am in a different area then you but we do not prime or paint fascia that will have cover on it.
We do not bevel the top edge of fascia, we simply set the leading edge in plane with the rafters.
Fascia cover should go from bottom edge of soffit vent and tuck under the drip edge. It sounds to me like your existing is installed wrong.
We use 2x lumber for fascia, but if existing is 1x that is what u need to use.
Hope I helped.
October 17th, 2009
Jeremy and Lisa
Was there ever any doubt?
Edited 11/16/2008 9:03 pm by bstcrpntr
Thanks all. So I'll replace the fascia boards myself and I'll ask the gutter guys if they can put in alum cover first. I'm assuming they would do that sort of thing no? (extra charge of course). At the very least I'll make sure they put alum cover in to make sure the water comes into the gutter and doesnt flow down the board behind the cover.
Edited 11/16/2008 9:09 pm ET by Toolsguy
Butting the top edge of the fascia is likely what was done before.
Be aware that the fascia is apt to be 7/8" material rather than 3/4" -- check before you buy replacement material. The 7/8" was traditionally cedar with one side un-planed, though if you look around you may be able to find a composite material in that thickness for a replacement. There is also "5/4" material that is sometimes used -- about 31/32" thick.
The aluminum covering on the existing fascia was probably added after the fact, when the vinyl soffits were installed. If the new fascia will be "wrapped" the aluminum should run all the way up and behind the lip of the drip edge.
The gutter guys may or may not be willing to wrap the soffit for you. In any event, where there is existing partial wrapping it should either be replaced or a new piece installed that fits up behind the drip edge and laps the current wrapping.
So in addition to wrapping the fascia board all the way to the top or adding material, I would also have the gutter co. install additional drip material to prevent the water from running behind the gutter? Or would the second accomplish what I need?
If the fascia is wrapped then a little water behind the gutter won't hurt anything. (In fact, even without being wrapped it's unlikely to be a problem.) I've never heard of anyone installing flashing from drip edge to gutter top to close any gap between the two.What IS a problem is to "wrap" just the bottom edge of the fascia, so that water can easily get behind the wrapping and then be trapped there.
The only function of economic forecasting is to make astrology look respectable. --John Kenneth Galbraith
I like it for the reasons above and I've seen water running behind the gutter dripping right over top of an entry door onto people and unnecessarily putting roof runoff in a spot where it can do some damage. Its an extra step that I think improves the quality of what's being done. You may find it unnecessary but I disagree.
Danno, is the piece you are talking about just wedged under the drip edge with no fasterners? Do you happen to have a picture of this?
Sorry no pics( I gotta start doing that) its just an L shaped peice but not bent all the way to 90 deg. Usually its presented as an option to owner and if they've had experince with it running behind they want it, about half opt for it. Measure up from the bracket so the top part is just long enough to go behind the part of the drip that will hold it there and the other part is maybe 1"- 1 1/2".
So the total width of the peice is in the neighborhood of 2 1/2" its a good way to use up scraps too. If my description is no good ket me know maybe I can draw a pic or something.
Thanks Danno I think I get it now.
I used to be able to get pre bent fascia wrap in white alum. It was for a 1x6 fascia (5.5") and was 6" on the face, with a lip to carry / hide the 1/2" soffit. It even had a few stiffener rolls in the face that kept the oil canning and puckering down.
Never saw it in any color other than Obdyke Brn and White.
It might be available where you are, and now that I think more, it was avail. in wht Vinyl as well.
I have had a few instances ( my own home is one) where I needed to add a "filler" above the gutter back, and tuck it under the drip edge, keep the lengths short, a 10' hunk is a bear to slide in, have a kick or a hem to stiffen it ( it likely will be tapered in width) and pop rivet it to the lip of the drip edge, and notch it around the hangers. I deally it laps into the gutter a 1/2'' or so.
I had to because I am directing a lot of water (more than 2/3) along a 44' gutter to hit a collection barrel, and my drop end was quite a bit lower than the high point, almost off the bottom of the fascia.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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Thanks Sphere. If I wind up doing it myself I'll have to look into that material at my local yard. I have to take a harder look at the longer runs and see if the fascia boards are even rotten. It might just be the short runs where the two roof lines transition in which case maybe the gutter guys can handle for me. Thanks
I need to replace the fascia on our house. Ours is 1 x 6 and has square cut tails but I prefer to make plumb cut and then box in the eaves using hardie soffit material...at least thats the plan.ML
>>Be aware that the fascia is apt to be 7/8" material rather than 3/4" -- check before you buy replacement material. The 7/8" was traditionally cedar with one side un-planed, though if you look around you may be able to find a composite material in that thickness for a replacement. There is also "5/4" material that is sometimes used -- about 31/32" thick.<You're showing your Minnesota perspective there, Dan. Never seen that out here. Most trim in these parts is 1x pine. On older (19th century) houses it may be 7/8 or 13/16, but still usually pine, S4S, or in older houses yet, the thickness can be all over the place. Frieze boards often vary by more than 1/4 " and are planed to a uniform thickness only at the spots where they hit the studs (when installed over no sheathing) or shimmed out to be in the same plane on the front side. The mill I get my 1x from still mills it to 13/16", and their 5/4 is actually 1 1/8" thick, Another down the road mills to 3/4 and 1", so I get a choice.When I worked in the twin cities for a couple of years I had a heck of a time spec-ing trim work, as no one carried what I was used to using.Steve