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I need to replace the caulking around 60 or so aluminum windows (some small, some large) that were originally installed in the mid 1960s at my church. I’m not sure if it’s caulking or putty as much of it has turned rock hard and then to powder. Under this layer are u-shaped clips that seem to hold the glass in. The strip of caulking is about 1/4 inch deep and 1 to 1 1/2 inch wide covering the clips entirely. This stuff has NEVER been touched and is suffering.
What is the best way to remove and replace this stuff?
The big problem is that we have a small budget. We have volunteers, not all of them skilled in any trade, so this needs to be straightforward.
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You can use chisels, hammers etc and be very careful and chip it out and you will get to the last few inches of work and the glass will crack. Happens most of the time. I have seen advertised a carbide bit you put in a drill motor to remove old putty. Haven't used one yet, though.
My suggestion would be to remove the easy loose stuff and caulk over it with proper glazing compound.
Have you talked with your local friendly glass place?
*" Happens most of the time. "Now that sounds like you've got good qualifications for giving advice on the matter, bro. Consulting the local pros was better advice.Use a flexible putty knife and heat to soften the putty for removal. Keep the hammer and chisles away.I'm not sure what the original putty is - I haven't seen what you discribe.
*Just a guess on the type of putty used: try a little linseed oil on a small section and see if that softens it up a bit (NB, making it softer may, or may not, make it easier to remove - try a few inches first). Like Piffin says: a heat-gun, a flexible putty knife, and maybe some carving picks are still going to be your weapons of choice.
*You did not mention the color of the putty.Normally, gray putty is used on metal sash windows. It is a little different formula than white (wooden sash) putty. It is much more "sticky" than white putty and is seems to cure a lot harder than it also.The little U shape clips you refer to sevre the same purpose as glazing point in a wooden sash. The clips are u- shaped with a small L turned down or up on each leg of the U. The turned down part is inserted into a small hole in the metal sash. The upturned part ont the other leg of the U presses agianst the glass lite. They are spaced two or more per side to hold the lite in place while the glazing is completed.DO NOT use any type of cutting tool to remove the old putty. Those little U shaped clips aare made of SPRING STEEL. They do not react well to fast moving cutting edges. Kevlar protection is recommended for everyone working around you if yuo try that method.As mentioned above heat and a good putty knife are your safest and most efficent route. Expect to break a few lite of glass, it happens in spite of the most dilligent care. Tape up the broken lite and go aheah and finish taking it out with a block of wood and a mallet. Any commercial glass retailer will have the glazing clips and the proper putty to reglaze the metal sash.Meal sashes are not usually primed before glazing. The putty sticks better to the unprimed metal. Be carefull when digging out the old putty from aluminum sashes. It is easy to nick and gouge the sash, as the old putty seems to be harder than the aluminum.A final caution. Wear leather gloves and safety glasses with side shields or a full face shield.Best of luck.Dave
*Its probably 6 of one and half dozen of the other as to which method is best. Chisels and hammers will break the glass, so will a heat gun. The glazing is probably steel sash putty, which is much harder than glazing compound. Your best bet, in my opinion, would be to remove the loose glazing, prime over the remaining glazing and re-glaze. Don't be surprised if you break a few glass in the process.
*The colour of the putty under the exposed layer is white. I think after almost 40 years on the window anything that may have been white on top has been sundamaged and covered with city grime and turned grey(and powdery in some places!). I'll give the linseed oil a try too.It seems that everyone agrees that elbow grease is the method of choice. I'll pass it on to our Property C'ttee chair and see the reaction. Maybe we'll have a fundraiser for some new windows...
*You obviously didn't think while reading my post. See anything in there recommending a hammer and chisel? For those who can't read between the lines I was pointing out what doesn't work.
*I wouldn't ever consider handing a hammer and chisel to anyone around glass, especially not volunteers. I had to teach some of them how to use a paint brush when we painted! (No kidding) Hammer and chisel? NO WAY! My volunteers have BIG hearts and are willing to work. I just don't want to them to get hurt.The flexible putty knife sounds safer. And I'm still nervous about that! I know heat guns can crack glass - it happened to a friend of mine on a big window. I may just use the remove loose stuff and reglaze method. Of course I'll chat with a local pro to see if we've missed something.Thanks to all for your input. I'll let you know the results when we have them. I'm still open to new ideas!
*Marion, As another response mentioned not to use the carbide tipped putty removing tool, I can only second that motion. I have purchased one of those tools, a "putty chaser" and unless you have a lot of patience, a steady hand and some practice it is more trouble than its worth. Just my two cents but I would spend any money on one. You will get further down the road of success with this project by using some of the other tips here, heat up the putty knife, dampen old putty with a solution of....., etc.Good luck and wear eye protection in case of glass breakage, or other flying objects.
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I need to replace the caulking around 60 or so aluminum windows (some small, some large) that were originally installed in the mid 1960s at my church. I'm not sure if it's caulking or putty as much of it has turned rock hard and then to powder. Under this layer are u-shaped clips that seem to hold the glass in. The strip of caulking is about 1/4 inch deep and 1 to 1 1/2 inch wide covering the clips entirely. This stuff has NEVER been touched and is suffering.
What is the best way to remove and replace this stuff?
The big problem is that we have a small budget. We have volunteers, not all of them skilled in any trade, so this needs to be straightforward.